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05-10-2009, 11:29
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#1
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Kilmarnock, VA
Boat: Bowman 46
Posts: 40
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Teak Deck Removal Project
Well, it's finally time.......
The craftsmen who installed Aurelia's, (Bowman 46 Sloop), teak deck in 1972 did an outstanding job. 37 years on, however, it's leaky, unsightly and it has to go.
So, sledge hammers and pry bars in hand, I'll be demo-ing the epoxy laid teak decks starting 10-10-09. My plan is to try to pull the teak decking off with hand tools. If this proves to be frustratingly difficult, I may buy a power planer and try that.
Plans are to seal the deck with two layers of 6 ounce cloth followed by LP paint. I'll apply LP paint with a non-skid additive where appropriate.
I'll keep the board posted with progress pictures, assuming I survive the ordeal. If anyone has tackled a project of similar scope, I would love to hear about it.
Cheers,
Steve
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05-10-2009, 12:53
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#2
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2008
Location: We're technically refugees from our home in Yemen now living in Lebenon
Boat: 1978 CT48
Posts: 5,970
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I'm not sure I'd pry those screws out....seems to me you may cause a lot of delamination like that.
I drilled the plugs and removed and reset/re-plugged every one of the 3200+ screws on my deck....yeh it took a few days but the results were sure worth it.
If you’re sure you want to do this ...and I can see lots of reasons too do it....I'd try to un-thread the screws.
Good luck and let us know how it turns out.....pics are always nice.
__________________
James
S/V Arctic Lady
I love my boat, I can't afford not to!
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05-10-2009, 13:12
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#3
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: West Coast, BC , Canada
Boat: Cascade
Posts: 595
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Wow Big job you have planned.
Do you not like the teak and the leak or is it just the leak? Just wondering if you could re-finish it and reseal it? I like teak.
__________________
Go outside and PLAY!
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05-10-2009, 13:13
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#4
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Moderator... short for Cat Wrangler
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: San Francisco
Boat: Cal 28 Flush Deck
Posts: 5,559
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bowman Sailor
assuming I survive the ordeal.
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... with condolences.
__________________
Sara
ain't what ya do, it's the way that ya do it...
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05-10-2009, 13:53
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#5
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Finland
Boat: OneOff ketch, 48 ft, s/y Oceania
Posts: 9
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Hello Steve,
I had a similar project here, with my 48 ft ketch build at 1978, deck of plywood and teak. First i planned just to cover it by fiberglass, but after opening the deck from cabin side, i found the deck too rotten here and there. It was also impossible to remove old teak from plywood i my case.
So I took it all away, everything, installed new plywood and coverd it by fiberglass, no teak so far, perhaps on some walkways. I'm happy with results.
Good luck with your project,
timo v
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05-10-2009, 16:51
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#6
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: between the devil and the deep blue sea
Boat: a sailing boat
Posts: 21,142
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Hi,
My colleague down here just done it: was not as bad as it promised. However, having done the job he noticed the new deck (all GRP) much more flexible than the original - probably can be addressed by adding (ouf - the name - STRINGRES, I guess).
Good luck, let us know how it goes.
b.
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05-10-2009, 18:22
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#7
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Wash DC
Boat: PETERSON 44
Posts: 3,165
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When you cant unscrew drill off the head these coreing bits can be a help.
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05-10-2009, 19:17
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#8
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 81
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Piggybacking on your thread. .. I am looking ahead to the day when the Treadmaster has to come off. I think this Fein tool might be the easiest way to remove it. Anyone try it for this application?
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06-10-2009, 08:54
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#9
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Santa Cruz
Boat: SAnta Cruz 27
Posts: 7,164
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When they replaced my teak deck in Thailand, they used hammers and small (1/2-3/4")chisels to break up the wood. Then the screws stood proud, and were removed with a screwdriver or vice grips.
The average piece of wood which broke off was smaller than my little finger, but it really didn't take that long.
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06-10-2009, 12:34
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#10
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2008
Location: We're technically refugees from our home in Yemen now living in Lebenon
Boat: 1978 CT48
Posts: 5,970
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I had to replace about 20% of mine and that’s how I took it off....no way to pry it off...I don’t know if they had 5200 30+ years ago but that’s what it was like....bit by bit by bit chip, chip, bit, bit.....
But if ever there was a wood meant to be worked with a chisel its teak.
__________________
James
S/V Arctic Lady
I love my boat, I can't afford not to!
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06-10-2009, 16:41
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#11
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Kilmarnock, VA
Boat: Bowman 46
Posts: 40
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Solitude, I love teak, but.......
Quote:
Originally Posted by Solitude
Wow Big job you have planned.
Do you not like the teak and the leak or is it just the leak? Just wondering if you could re-finish it and reseal it? I like teak.
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I love teak and it has great non-skid properties, but after 37 years there isn't enough wood thickness left to sand and re-chalk. The quotes I've received to replace the teak deck with another one equal the value of the boat - it's just not worth it to me. So, I'm removing it an replacing it with glass and LP paint.
FYI,
Steve
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15-10-2009, 07:30
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#12
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Kilmarnock, VA
Boat: Bowman 46
Posts: 40
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The Horror Begins....
Epoxy-laid teak deck removal isn't any fun.....
__________________
Steve
S/V Aurelia
Bowman 46
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15-10-2009, 08:41
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#13
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Fort Pierce, FL. Texas Roots
Boat: 82 Present, 13 ft dinghy
Posts: 495
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I agree withe the poster that gave you the link for the Fein Multimaster. You will be able to do the decks as you want with that tool. You will have a tool that your grandkids will fight over at the reading of the will. Between the time you finish with the decks and the reading of the will you will have a tool that will remove hatches and ports with minimal damage for rebedding, same with hardware such as lifeline stanchons, that will sand in nooks and crannies, cut metal, wood, do flush cuts, burnish and buff, grind, rasp, file and so on and so on and so on.
If you are going to do your own work the $400's is chump change for buying the tool when compared to paying labor.
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15-10-2009, 23:18
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#14
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always in motion is the future
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: in paradise
Boat: Sundeer 64
Posts: 19,986
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Yes Mule, it was probably me mentioning the tool but people don't listen when they hear it's $400 and they never know what they miss ;-)
ciao!
Nick.
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16-10-2009, 00:10
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#15
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Puget Sound
Boat: Irwin 41 CC Ketch
Posts: 2,878
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Got a good report on this one as well for 1/3 the cost...Now that Fein's patten has expired there will be some competition.
Rockwell Tools - Save When You Buy Direct from Rockwell
__________________
"Go simple, go large!".
Relationships are everything to me...everything else in life is just a tool to enhance them.
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