Teak cap rail bonding

[Target9000]

We took up our teak cap rail to reseal our hull to deck joint. The joint was filled with caulk and all of the old screw holes that were used to mechanically fasten the teak rail down to the joint were filled. This has provided us with a waterproof and leak free hull to deck joint. Now we must put the cap rail back on top of this joint.

The joint itself is a mix of exposed fiberglass, gelcoat, and the polyurethane caulk we used to fill the holes.

I'm loathe to screw the teak back down to the joint, as I just -know- that it will leak somewhere. So my question is this... Is it at all feasible to simply glue the cap rails back down onto the hull to deck joint with something and what is that something? These cap rails are up on top of a bulwark and will see little to no foot traffic and are so high above the water line I imagine that fenders rising up won't present much of an issue but I do worry about the pressure of water hitting them in the sea.

Penny for your thoughts...

[Captain Con]

5200 is permanent and forever...but if your rail gets hit or bumps it will separate without some screw holding it down. Try drilling your holes filling them with 5200 as you bed the screws down it should keep from leaking. But I wouldn't trust just gluing it down.

[minaret]

Teak Decking Systems Caulk



This one.

[Target9000]

Originally Posted by minaret

Teak Decking Systems Caulk



This one.

I've looked at that stuff, any idea on how well it bonds to other polyurethane caulks and to fiberglass?

[Target9000]

Originally Posted by Captain Con

5200 is permanent and forever...but if your rail gets hit or bumps it will separate without some screw holding it down. Try drilling your holes filling them with 5200 as you bed the screws down it should keep from leaking. But I wouldn't trust just gluing it down.

Its a double edged sword. If you bump it and it isn't screwed down it will pull up, but if you bump it and it is screwed down it will probably crack or split.

[roverhi]

When I replaced my cap rail, drilled the holes for the fasteners as I did a dry install, then pulled the rail up. Ran the fasteners fully in on the cap rail, turned the rail over and thorougly gooped up the fasteners and the underside of the rail with 5200. Turned it back over and ran the fasteners in. No leaks anymore. First fiberglass I've owned that doesn't have any deck leaks.

[minaret]

Originally Posted by Target9000

I've looked at that stuff, any idea on how well it bonds to other polyurethane caulks and to fiberglass?

Yeah, it's awesome stuff-and affordable. Much cheaper by the case. Sticks to teak better than the competitors, excellent UV resistance, etc. etc. Just read the reviews in the link. Lots more online.

[Target9000]

Originally Posted by minaret

Yeah, it's awesome stuff-and affordable. Much cheaper by the case. Sticks to teak better than the competitors, excellent UV resistance, etc. etc. Just read the reviews in the link. Lots more online.

Thanks for that tip, we'll just glue it down with this stuff and call it good.

[minaret]

Originally Posted by Target9000

Thanks for that tip, we'll just glue it down with this stuff and call it good.

Fasteners are always better, but if you must go that route it's what I'd use. Good luck!

[Chrisc]

A very interesting question for me as I about to undertake the exact same toe rail refastening job. Would someone please tell me what 5200 is? Its not a product available here but no doubt we will have some form of equivalent.

Ta

[Target9000]

Originally Posted by Chrisc

A very interesting question for me as I about to undertake the exact same toe rail refastening job. Would someone please tell me what 5200 is? Its not a product available here but no doubt we will have some form of equivalent.

Ta

5200 is a polyurethane caulk made by 3M with an extremely high tensile strength.

On-line Product Catalog:*3M

[Chrisc]

Thanks

[roverhi]

Originally Posted by Target9000

Thanks for that tip, we'll just glue it down with this stuff and call it good.

Doubt that a polyurethane caulk will be able hold the rail for very long if there is any tension in it. Possibly a polyurethane caulk like 5200 might work if it's fixed in position till it's thoroughly cured. Even then I wouldn't trust it. Believe you are going to have use some fasteners if you expect it to hang on with the usual bumps and bangs of normal use.

The reason that cap rail fasteners usually leak is they don't use enough caulk when they are initially installed. They don't take the time to install the rail dry and then pull it up and caulk the fasteners from the underside before reinstalling.