Teak and lock question

[NorthernMac]

Dont mean to be blowing up cruiser forums tonight, just got a ton to do in a short time and have a few questions


I currently have some TSP for cleaning, 80, 120, 220 grit sand paper, cetol natural teak and also cetol gloss, I'm looking to clean up my teak but some of it is pretty ruff/ridged to the touch.

Should I just clean with TSP, sand smooth, put 2-3 hot coats of natural, let cure, sand, and top coat?






And the second half, can anyone recommend a pretty lock solution for my main hatch? Needs to be brass or bronze and be able to be locked or unlocked from inside too (live aboard)






THANKS!!!

[chris95040]

Can’t imagine why you’d do anything to that wood. Picture the end result without rose colored glasses. You think the boat is going to look better?

A boat like that, let her age gracefully. Silvery teak and chalky old gelcoat look right together.

Cetol looks like a cheap spray-tan anyways, and seeing that surrounded by old boat is just sad and kinda revolting IMHO.

[NorthernMac]

Originally Posted by chris95040

Can’t imagine why you’d do anything to that wood. Picture the end result without rose colored glasses. You think the boat is going to look better?

A boat like that, let her age gracefully. Silvery teak and chalky old gelcoat look right together.

Cetol looks like a cheap spray-tan anyways, and seeing that surrounded by old boat is just sad and kinda revolting IMHO.

You’ll for sure not like my soon to be topic on buffing the gel coat back up and a new topcoat on deck.

I just want the boat to look Bristol, I bought it for a good price and have some margin to play, I live aboard and the boat is a representation of me to a degree, of that makes sense

[NorthernMac]

So what was your point? My boat isn’t worth fixing up? I mean if that’s the case why bother selling paint/vanish/etc?

[Tillsbury]

You're going too fine with the paper. 80 is most of the way to finishing. I use 40 for most of it, then get rid of the 40-scratches with 80 then 120. Use the 40 until almost all the grey is gone. I use Semco to seal the teak, but if you want to varnish then you can go up to 180 if you feel it's worth it. If sanding is hard work you need to go down a grit level.

[NorthernMac]

Originally Posted by Tillsbury

You're going too fine with the paper. 80 is most of the way to finishing. I use 40 for most of it, then get rid of the 40-scratches with 80 then 120. Use the 40 until almost all the grey is gone. I use Semco to seal the teak, but if you want to varnish then you can go up to 180 if you feel it's worth it. If sanding is hard work you need to go down a grit level.

Thanks

So sand it until there are no ridges than go up in grit?

[Tillsbury]

Yes, sand till its flat and golden. Watch the edges, you'll carve them up really easily. The 80 grit won't really remove any wood, it'll just get rid of the scratches from the 40 grit paper, and so on up the levels. The 40 grit will be at least half the work if not more.

People sell paint and varnish to make money, they don't care if it's used or what it's used on ��. But I've seen a few boats that you might think weren't worth fixing up fixed up, and it's good to see. Forget the naysayers and enjoy fixing your boat.

[NorthernMac]

Originally Posted by Tillsbury

Yes, sand till its flat and golden. Watch the edges, you'll carve them up really easily. The 80 grit won't really remove any wood, it'll just get rid of the scratches from the 40 grit paper, and so on up the levels. The 40 grit will be at least half the work if not more.

People sell paint and varnish to make money, they don't care if it's used or what it's used on ��. But I've seen a few boats that you might think weren't worth fixing up fixed up, and it's good to see. Forget the naysayers and enjoy fixing your boat.

Ok, so start at 40, vibrating sander work for that?








I’m not worried about people who never had a callus or work less than 12hrs on a work day, it’s a super sound and very attractive and well kept boat, just needs a little light cosmetic stuff, heck I sailed her about 1,300 miles days after the survey and buying her.

Luckily I was able to buy it from someone like the guy who posted after my first post, and got it for a song, lots of money to be made and saved with people like that, so nothing but love.

[rbk]

Don’t start with 40. You’re likely to gouge the teak. Preferable to have a random orbital sander as it won’t leave marks. Start with 80 and see how is goes. With 120 being the upper limit to apply varnish I like a better bond so usually only sand bare wood with 80, 2 thinned coats then a sand with 120 in between all other coats. This sanding can be easily done with a sponge sanding block or just sand paper and a block as you’re not trying to remove material but just rough it up a bit to get a good mechanical bond and smooth any imperfections.

[JPA Cate]

Hello, Northern Mac,

I have to confess I never tried to keep up that much varnish, but I sort of know who can tell you what to do. It is extremely labor intensive, but once brought back, a light sand and a couple of coats per year will keep it looking quite well. Your best sources are the wooden boat folks.

Somewhere on CF (I tried, but sorry, couldn't find it) there is a discussion of brands of varnish and what you can expect from them. Unfortunately, it is one of the more expensive ones that looks best. No Cetol I've ever seen looks as good as good varnish.

Don't use TSP. Be kind to that old teak. I'd sand it as lightly as I could get away with, and I wouldn't worry about little dips where the soft grain is gone. Enough coats, and it will be smooth. Think 12 coats. 12 good varnishing temp and humidity days. And go for it. Do not go for perfect, this time. Go for brilliant, perfect can wait. Go for "good enough." Every grain of that timber you sand off is gone forever, and it is not infinitely thick. You can bring it back to beautiful.

Then, when you're starting to get tired of all the work, every 6 months, then think about a varnish seal coat, and paint the teak dove grey. It will come off clean with a heat gun for the next guy, and the paint lasts way, way better than varnish.

By the way, you can do a great deal for oxidised gelcoat with a product called variously PolyGlo. It needs to be re-done annually, but we found it quite satisfactory.

Enjoy the project, sounds like fun.

Ann

[Shoalcove]

I have an old boat with lots of teak and have spent the last 2 decades trying lots of variations for maintaining it. I use varnish on pieces that I can either take off the boat ( hatches and cockpit coatings) or that are well bedded down. 10 or 12 coats with annual sanding and topcoats.
My toerails have caused me the most grief and my happiest years were when I left them grey like yours. I did succumb to the lure of brightwork and have now settled on a combo that works for us. I use a couple coats of Cetol light covered with Cetol gloss. When fresh, it looks close enough to varnish that it doesn’t scream Cetol.
Looking at you photos, it appears that the toerails have some screw plugs that may need to be replaced before you varnish.
I love the look of varnished teak but also find the look of clean, grey teak very attractive. The difference in maintenance is significant. Another option would be to buff up the hull first and then varnish a couple smaller bits as accents.
Good luck!

[somanyboats]

40 grit is very aggressive.
I have used 60 grit carefully then go to 80 grit ,120, 300
I spent years trying to get varnish to stay on the cockpit backrests,
finally, out of frustration, I tried Cetol natural teak.
Wow, what a difference, it has lasted 3 years so for.
It is now my go-to product for exterior teak.
Good old boats can be beautiful. You will love the way it looks with a bit of love.
Enjoy

[Cheechako]

I'd just use a sliding bolt latch for when you are inside and use the latch you already have for locking the boat when away.

[Var Korall]

Your photos did not come through for me. but re your lock question, are you meaning a 'latch' that can be opened either from down below or from topside, no matter which side it was latched from, or truly a 'lock' which must be opened with a key from topside (or also from below) to secure the hatch from unwanted entry?

[Cheechako]

Originally Posted by Var Korall

Your photos did not come through for me. but re your lock question, are you meaning a 'latch' that can be opened either from down below or from topside, no matter which side it was latched from, or truly a 'lock' which must be opened with a key from topside (or also from below) to secure the hatch from unwanted entry?

I was just thinking a "gate barrel bolt" on the top door which slides into a hole on the top sliding hatch teak. I used these type on a couple boats. There are some with hasp locks also. But this idea is just for when you are inside the boat.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Hardware...3372/204774963