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robert sailor · 09-10-2014, 07:08

So I have been chasing a salt water leak for a couple of weeks and low and behold if my wife doesn't find it. Anyways its a hell of a job getting to it as I had to remove several pipes to get working room. The thru hull has a elbow that is connected to it and a T fitting with hose barbs both ends are screwed into the elbow, lots of stuff that has to line up. It was a bitch getting all this crap apart as everything was really tight but eventually I got it all out and cleaned up. Put some Teflon tape on the threads and proceeded to tighten the fittings. The first problem is that the elbow needs to point straight up and if I tighten the fitting properly it goes to 45 degrees past centre and it will not do another 3/4 of a revolution so its only finger tight straight up. What to do?? Is there a type of sealant that I can apply that will dry hard and lock it in place even though it is only finger tight? Whatever was in originally was a type of locking compound because it came out with lots of effort.

**a64pilot** · 09-10-2014, 07:11

Not understanding exactly your question, but 5200 ain't a bad sealant / thread locker.
Reread your post, now I understand. Sometimes a different fittings thread are cut slightly different so alignment may be a little different, plus if tapered pipe threads, you just simply overtorgue it until it aligns, may need to be remove and a vise used, But if no pressure on system I'd be tempted to use 5200 if there are plenty of threads in the fittings

HopCar · 09-10-2014, 07:23

Is this below the waterline? Is there a seacock or at least a ball valve in there somewhere?

It sounds like you're screwing an elbow with tapered threads directly onto a thru-hull fitting with straight threads. Not a good way to do it.

robert sailor · 09-10-2014, 08:14

Yes there is a ball valve on the thru hull and the elbow screws into the the ball valve fitting. They both look like tapered threads.

robert sailor · 09-10-2014, 08:15

Oh forgot to answer a question, this is above the waterline by an inch or two but below the waterline when sailing. It is a drain for 2 pumps.

delmarrey · 09-10-2014, 09:08

Thruhull fittings are straight threads only! What you need is an adaptor like this, which has a tapered thread.
Screw on your elbow, position it and fasten it then tighten the thruhull fitting after adding sealant.
Wala!

.

robert sailor · 09-10-2014, 09:23

I better put a picture here because my explanation is not working too well. Remember I need the top of the the T elbow to point straight up, sort of where its at right now in the picture, but its not tight in this 'up' position and it will not turn another full 360 degrees revolution.

jeepbluetj · 09-10-2014, 09:34

Looks to me like all the threads on the T fitting are completely bottomed out. IOW, the fitting has been tightened waaaay too tight sometime in the past. (Or it's just a crap fitting from HF)

I'd replace the street el, the T, and maybe the two barbs. Won't be much $$$, and you'll have fresh threads/tapers to work with. Then just tighten it till it's in the vertical position needed. Either teflon tape or pipe joint compound for sealant.

The much more hack way would be epoxy or 5200. And you'll never take it apart again.

jimbunyard · 09-10-2014, 09:38

Or you could, in order from least to most preferable:

1. Wrap some more Teflon tape on it to bulk out the threads.

2. JB Weld it.

3A. Sounds like you have a street el, but either way try another one. They're generally not threaded to any real standard.

3B. Get a tap or die and thread the fitting you have a little more.

leftbrainstuff · 09-10-2014, 09:47

Tape and goop hacks are no way to seal fittings. You need to determine exactly what threads and thread forms you are working with. Then your choice of compatible fittings and unions will be obvious. In cases like this I carefully check for cracks or corroded threads. If someone has hacked this in the past then they may have caused other damage.

Lining up a tapered thread can be tricky. Using flexible hose can often seperate out the problem and allow you to route the hose where you need to. Parallel threads don't seal on the threads.

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Terra Nova · 09-10-2014, 09:54

First, bilge pumps should never share an outlet.

And never join straight threads to tapered pipe threads.

And never use a ball valve in place of a seacock.

As for making elbows line up where you want them, use a standard elbow plus a close nipple, instead of a street el. This provides much more range of adjustment.

delmarrey · 09-10-2014, 10:07

Quote:

Originally Posted by robert sailor

I better put a picture here because my explanation is not working too well. Remember I need the top of the the T elbow to point straight up, sort of where its at right now in the picture, but its not tight in this 'up' position and it will not turn another full 360 degrees revolution.

I stick with my comment above. Still the best way to go?

Neo · 09-10-2014, 10:10

I agree with leftbrain and Nova, determine what type of thread your dealing with first, NPS of NPT, tapered or straight. See the link for the recommended number of turns past finger tight for different NPT fittings. There is a range which allows you to line up the fitting as desired.

http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/...cture21391.jpg