Synthetic Teak installed over existing teak?

[mcgann454]

I was at out local marina to coordinate storage for the end of the season (way too soon) and we got to talking about my teak deck. He mentioned that the new synthetic teak products could be installed over the existing teak.
My existing teak is worn down to the seams and a few screw plugs have popped. I have been backing the screws out and resealing and putting new plugs in, but the teak is getting too thin and I will have to do something.
I do not believe I have any water intrusion yet and have no soft spots or signs on the interior on the deck.

I have searched this forum and googled the net and have found one thread that drifted away from the question in three posts. I contacted one Fexiteak dealer and was told it can be done, but he would pull the old deck.

My boat is a 1984 Heritage East Nova Sundeck that I am restoring to do the loop in. I want to do it right, but my research on removing the old teak has shown some horror stories that if I can safely avoid, I will.

Thanks for your thoughts.
Mike

[JstaRebel]

Originally Posted by mcgann454

I was at out local marina to coordinate storage for the end of the season (way too soon) and we got to talking about my teak deck. He mentioned that the new synthetic teak products could be installed over the existing teak.
My existing teak is worn down to the seams and a few screw plugs have popped. I have been backing the screws out and resealing and putting new plugs in, but the teak is getting too thin and I will have to do something.
I do not believe I have any water intrusion yet and have no soft spots or signs on the interior on the deck.

I have searched this forum and googled the net and have found one thread that drifted away from the question in three posts. I contacted one Fexiteak dealer and was told it can be done, but he would pull the old deck.

My boat is a 1984 Heritage East Nova Sundeck that I am restoring to do the loop in. I want to do it right, but my research on removing the old teak has shown some horror stories that if I can safely avoid, I will.

Thanks for your thoughts.
Mike

I had the same issues with my cockpit teak seats. I also couldn't find anything online about the stuff going over teak. I called the manufacturers directly and didn't find a single one that would warrant their product if being applied over existing teak. I ended up removing the existing calking, cleaned up the original teak seat area first. Then I had 1/4" teak strips cut to match all of the original pieces. I did each area separately. First I sanded the old teak using 60 grit to open up the grain, wiped the sanded area down with acetone to remove oils, applied water to both pieces of teak as polyurethane glue is water activated, and glued them together using Gorilla glue and re-calked using TDS. I looked at Titebond glue, but it's water based. I also looked at west system epoxies including their G-flex stuff before deciding on the Gorilla Glue. It's just been a little over a year, but it worked well, minimal issues, and looks great. No more bungs turning black or popping out. the new teak greyed up nicely.

Good luck with your restoration.

[mcgann454]

Originally Posted by JstaRebel

I had the same issues with my cockpit teak seats. I also couldn't find anything online about the stuff going over teak. I called the manufacturers directly and didn't find a single one that would warrant their product if being applied over existing teak. I ended up removing the existing calking, cleaned up the original teak seat area first. Then I had 1/4" teak strips cut to match all of the original pieces. I did each area separately. First I sanded the old teak using 60 grit to open up the grain, wiped the sanded area down with acetone to remove oils, applied water to both pieces of teak as polyurethane glue is water activated, and glued them together using Gorilla glue and re-calked using TDS. I looked at Titebond glue, but it's water based. I also looked at west system epoxies including their G-flex stuff before deciding on the Gorilla Glue. It's just been a little over a year, but it worked well, minimal issues, and looks great. No more bungs turning black or popping out. the new teak greyed up nicely.

Good luck with your restoration.

Rebel,
Thanks for the input. I am finding most want the old teak removed.

[Kenomac]

Teak is loaded with natural oil, I seriously doubt any adhesive will stick to it in a marine environment other than epoxy during a vaccum glue down process, like when new teak is applied over fiberglass.

[hellosailor]

mcg-
If you don't remove the old teak 100% and reseal the deck under it, then there is no way you can prevent that old teak and the old fasteners from decaying further. So they will decay and eventually leak, and then you'd have to remove the new decking to access them and seal the leaks. Ouch.
You might be able to kludge it by literally glassing over all the old decking, or using roofing membrane over it, and literally sealing it all down that way. But that could be an ugly kludge, and a lot of added weight on the deck as well.
I'd also throw in with doing it once and doing it right: Strip off all the old stuff, seal it over, and then you can be sure the new stuff will go down right. And it won't have to be REdone.

[mcgann454]

Originally Posted by hellosailor

mcg-
If you don't remove the old teak 100% and reseal the deck under it, then there is no way you can prevent that old teak and the old fasteners from decaying further. So they will decay and eventually leak, and then you'd have to remove the new decking to access them and seal the leaks. Ouch.
You might be able to kludge it by literally glassing over all the old decking, or using roofing membrane over it, and literally sealing it all down that way. But that could be an ugly kludge, and a lot of added weight on the deck as well.
I'd also throw in with doing it once and doing it right: Strip off all the old stuff, seal it over, and then you can be sure the new stuff will go down right. And it won't have to be REdone.

Thanks all for the confirmation. I'll end up removing it and deciding on the faux teak or non slip.

[Scout 30]

Originally Posted by mcgann454

Thanks all for the confirmation. I'll end up removing it and deciding on the faux teak or non slip.

Have you decided on which synthetic teak to go with. I need to redo my nonskid & I thing this would be a great look for my boat.

[mcgann454]

Originally Posted by Scout 30

Have you decided on which synthetic teak to go with. I need to redo my nonskid & I thing this would be a great look for my boat.

I'm still researching and deciding if it will be the faux teak, but I like the Flexiteak product so far. I am all for the pattern making and getting the product in a sheet that is pre-welded. Installation would be easier and I believe more water resistant.

[DeepFrz]

By taking up the old teak you will have a chance to fix any small problems that lurk underneath before they become horror stories. Hopefully. Good luck.

[Scout 30]

Originally Posted by mcgann454

I'm still researching and deciding if it will be the faux teak, but I like the Flexiteak product so far. I am all for the pattern making and getting the product in a sheet that is pre-welded. Installation would be easier and I believe more water resistant.

I've had a couple of samples sitting on my desk for so long now I can't remember what brand they are. 2 boards thick tongue & groove that really looks like real wood. I'm not too worried about them being waterproof because my deck is sound but I don't think this is a do it yourselfer type of job.

[mcgann454]

Originally Posted by Scout 30

I've had a couple of samples sitting on my desk for so long now I can't remember what brand they are. 2 boards thick tongue & groove that really looks like real wood. I'm not too worried about them being waterproof because my deck is sound but I don't think this is a do it yourselfer type of job.

Check out this thread. There are quite a few others on this forum also.
Thanks,
Mike
http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/...-158697-2.html

[Scout 30]

Originally Posted by mcgann454

Check out this thread. There are quite a few others on this forum also.
Thanks,
Mike
http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/...-158697-2.html

Thanks for the info. Printed for future reference.

[Terra Nova]

You have not bothered to identify the vessel, but the proper repair for a well attached teak deck that has been worn past the caulking grooves and fastener plugs is to re-groove and caulk the seams and r&r the fasteners. It is a time consuming job, but the results at least don't leave you with a crappy looking faux-teak deck.

Here's one I did.

[mcgann454]

Originally Posted by Terra Nova

You have not bothered to identify the vessel, but the proper repair for a well attached teak deck that has been worn past the caulking grooves and fastener plugs is to re-groove and caulk the seams and r&r the fasteners. It is a time consuming job, but the results at least don't leave you with a crappy looking faux-teak deck.

Here's one I did.

LOL. Thanks for the comments. I am leaning towards re-grooving and caulking, but I came to the forum to gather as much positive info before moving forward as possible.

I also had filled the profile quite a while ago and not sure why the info is not there. Saved correctly now.