Switching to wood - let me have it.

[Chotu]

Originally Posted by rslifkin

You could manage enough compressor to paint with from those generators. Just have to get a little creative. Think like a pair of 30 gallon / 120v compressors. 1 on each generator. Basically put the air output of each compressor in parallel. A quick search says 10 - 14 scfm at 40 psi for HVLP spray. A pair of these would give you 14.6 scfm at 40 psi, for example: https://www.harborfreight.com/29-gal...sor-61489.html


Depending on actual air demand, you may have to take an occasional break for the compressors to catch up, but with 60 gallons of tank capacity, that shouldn't be all that frequent.


Depending on whether the compressor already has a provision to unload the pump for motor start, you might need to add an unloader to reduce the startup kick to something the generators can handle. But as long as the thing starts, a 2.5kw will run a compressor that size with no issues.

While this is a possibility, I can’t see spending $1000 on some stuff I just have to throw away after painting the inside of a boat. I already did that for the outside of the boat. Cost creep here is too much for one job.

I guess roll and tip isn’t going to work out well enough? Maybe this is what pushes me to formica for the outside skins and just a Tom Sawyer type of paint job for the inside of the shelves.

[rslifkin]

Originally Posted by Chotu

While this is a possibility, I can’t see spending $1000 on some stuff I just have to throw away after painting the inside of a boat. I already did that for the outside of the boat. Cost creep here is too much for one job.

I guess roll and tip isn’t going to work out well enough? Maybe this is what pushes me to formica for the outside skins and just a Tom Sawyer type of paint job for the inside of the shelves.

Roll and tip or brush would probably work fine, it just comes down to choosing a paint that'll come out well with that application method and not too much effort.

[Thumbs Up]

Roll and tip LPU is a multi day process. Rolling and tipping the primer doesn't work (more like roll or tip then sand most of it off). A perfectly smooth shiny finish is hard to do, time consuming and expensive. If you are willing to accept a textured surface, you can prime and paint industrial grade LPU in one day with rollers and end up with a durable, glossy (but textured) surface. You won't be able to control which texture that you end up with but the results should be consistent.(heavy orange peel). You will need very short nap phenolic core mini rollers.https://www.amazon.com/Wooster-Brush.../dp/B00EARHUQ6 ( The procedure is roll on primer, then hotcoat with 2-3 coats of paint then peel the tape the same day. I have this finish on my hull topsides and underside of my bridgedeck. It is extremely durable.

[Chotu]

Originally Posted by Thumbs Up

Roll and tip LPU is a multi day process. Rolling and tipping the primer doesn't work (more like roll or tip then sand most of it off). A perfectly smooth shiny finish is hard to do, time consuming and expensive. If you are willing to accept a textured surface, you can prime and paint industrial grade LPU in one day with rollers and end up with a durable, glossy (but textured) surface. You won't be able to control which texture that you end up with but the results should be consistent.(heavy orange peel). You will need very short nap phenolic core mini rollers.https://www.amazon.com/Wooster-Brush.../dp/B00EARHUQ6 ( The procedure is roll on primer, then hotcoat with 2-3 coats of paint then peel the tape the same day. I have this finish on my hull topsides and underside of my bridgedeck. It is extremely durable.

Ahhhh. Thank you for the words of experience here. I didn’t know these outcomes.

I’m down to Formica or an airless sprayer at this point. I don’t think the orange peel is the right look for the cabinet faces/skins. Good idea for under the bridge deck. That was good thinking.

[Thumbs Up]

Check out Preval https://preval.com/#:~:text=The%20Pr...nt%20to%20use.

[Chotu]

As a compromise, what about one of these?

https://www.harborfreight.com/painti...yer-64933.html

I am pretty good with a sprayer actually. Could probably coax a good spray out of this given the right reducer and all the positive reviews from your basic homeowner spraying all sorts of stuff through it.

[Chotu]

Or these? System Three suggests using them (or the pressure pot setup) for their linear polyurethane.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Graco-Magnu...B&gclsrc=aw.ds


https://support.systemthree.com/hc/e...-Three-WR-LPU-

[Chotu]

Originally Posted by Thumbs Up

Check out Preval https://preval.com/#:~:text=The%20Pr...nt%20to%20use.

Or this too. They seem to be widely available and available locally to me.

[Thumbs Up]

The one at Lowes saying not for laquer is a good indication that it shouldn't be used with strong solvents, these systems are too high volume. Check this outhttps://www.harborfreight.com/painti...gun-62300.htmlcoupled withhttps://www.harborfreight.com/17-gal...sor-69666.html compressor draws 1800 watts

[Chotu]

Originally Posted by Thumbs Up

The one at Lowes saying not for laquer is a good indication that it shouldn't be used with strong solvents, these systems are too high volume. Check this outhttps://www.harborfreight.com/painti...gun-62300.htmlcoupled withhttps://www.harborfreight.com/17-gal...sor-69666.html compressor draws 1800 watts

That looks good, but I know from experience spraying the exterior and inside the deckhouse that you need an incredibly complicated plumbing system to get the water out of the air here in Florida too.

Maybe the Preval was the best option?

[Thumbs Up]

But you don't actually need it to get acceptable results. Can use these:https://www.harborfreight.com/inline...ter-68215.html
Back to airless sprayers (or even foam rollers). If you switch to house paints, and coat entire panels at once, I think you can get good results. Especially if you scuff between coats. 100% acrylic as well as oil/alkyd based enamels are worth a try. A high end boat enamel like Brightsideshttps://www.amazon.com/Interlux-Y435...001BW8C9C?th=1 is worth mentioning, if you sand a little between coats 320 grit or even scotchbrite, can come out looking like awlgrip. It can be self priming, not that much different than rustoleum but formulated to give very good results. There is also an additive (Floetrol) that improves results on oil pased paints. I am intrigued by 100% acrylics but don't think they would sand well. Oil based paint is basically varnish with pigment.

[rslifkin]

Brightside would be an easy option. If self levels well, so you can put it on with a foam brush and get a smooth finish. I've never tried rolling it, but I'd expect it to be easy enough.

[Thumbs Up]

So you have 1/4" panels plus potentially the next size down (3/16, 1/8). For corners and edges have some custom mouldings made up at a local wood shop. Buy a rough sawn maple plank 5/4 ( 1 1/4") and have it milled into 1"+ square mouldings with one bullnose(radiused) edge and adjacent cut outs (rabbets) for the 1/4 or thinner (Have different mouldings to join different panel thickness.). These mouldings become your upright corners. Have edge "el" mouldings milled to cap off the plywood endgrain around openings (increase thickness on inside face, flush on outside).

Have enough of these mouldings made in one go to have extras for ongoing projects. After cutting and sanding, prefinish the exposed edges with polyurethane. Check out this new instant glue that trim carpenter are using: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Instantb...-400/203082931. Bonds in like one second!.
Stick it all together and attach the tops. You can make doors to cover the openings later on. If you were careful with the cutting process you can use the door cutouts for the actual doors (edging them with maple). I say maple because one of the few light colored, durable, available, looks very nice.
You could potentially have your panels CNC cut, you could look into computer designing the whole thing and having all the panels cut in one go.

[Chotu]

I think I’ll go with brightside. Sounds like a paint that was made to be used in this situation. I’ll look up application instructions.

[Chotu]

Originally Posted by Thumbs Up

So you have 1/4" panels plus potentially the next size down (3/16, 1/8). For corners and edges have some custom mouldings made up at a local wood shop. Buy a rough sawn maple plank 5/4 ( 1 1/4") and have it milled into 1"+ square mouldings with one bullnose(radiused) edge and adjacent cut outs (rabbets) for the 1/4 or thinner (Have different mouldings to join different panel thickness.). These mouldings become your upright corners. Have edge "el" mouldings milled to cap off the plywood endgrain around openings (increase thickness on inside face, flush on outside).

Have enough of these mouldings made in one go to have extras for ongoing projects. After cutting and sanding, prefinish the exposed edges with polyurethane. Check out this new instant glue that trim carpenter are using: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Instantb...-400/203082931. Bonds in like one second!.
Stick it all together and attach the tops. You can make doors to cover the openings later on. If you were careful with the cutting process you can use the door cutouts for the actual doors (edging them with maple). I say maple because one of the few light colored, durable, available, looks very nice.
You could potentially have your panels CNC cut, you could look into computer designing the whole thing and having all the panels cut in one go.

I’m not completely sure of all the measurements yet so I don’t think I could have the ability to send it off for CNC. However, I do have a very nice Hitachi router and a table saw. I think I could do the bullnose and rabbet cuts without any problems. Can I use the Douglas fir boards I already have at least until it runs out? Then get maple? I’m going to paint it all gloss white anyway and bury any imperfections in the fit with polyester based bog, so a mismatch in wood should be ok. I’m basically trying to make it all look as if it’s molded plastic. Seamless. Decorative items will come from Formica countertops, the bullnose on the countertop, the edge treatment of the access holes in the front panel, flooring, etc.

I had heard about his superglue they are using now. I’ll check it out in more detail.

Great thread. Finally, I think I’m getting close to a repeatable, good looking, fast process to get all the cabinetry up. Very encouraging.