Steel Yacht touch up epoxy primer options?

[davefrediam]

Hi all
I used various Jotun paints to refurbish my steel yacht but now I am after an epoxy primer to just touch up areas where the paint work has been damaged, the choice is more difficult.
They do, do a primer which seems ideal, called Smart Pack Aluminium which has a mixing ratio of 1 to 1 making it easy to get right in small quantities, it is also tolerant of surface preparation etc. The problem is the smallest quantity you can get it in is 10 litres so as just a touch up paint I would end up throwing away 95% of it in around 4 years time depending on how many times I have had to reopen the cans (Jotun paint is fine but the cans are very flimsy).
Has anyone out there got any recommendations?

Many Thanks In Advance


Dave

[conachair]

For hand prepared steel this is the best I've found -
Products

Still in biggish tins though.

[Captsteve53]

INTER-PROTECT by International, Damn good on steel priming but also good for Aluminium/GRP and most other materials so can be used around for many jobs, Available even down to 750 ml cans

https://international-yachtpaint.com...s/interprotect

Cheers Steve

[conachair]

Originally Posted by Captsteve53

INTER-PROTECT by International, Damn good on steel priming but also good for Aluminium/GRP and most other materials so can be used around for many jobs, Available even down to 750 ml cans

https://international-yachtpaint.com...s/interprotect

Cheers Steve

Tried that, ameron sealer wins for sure for steel that isn't prepared very well, which it won't be without sand/shot blasting.

[Aussie Monty]

I blasted and primed my Adams 45 using an Altex product called Carboguard 635. Two Part Epoxy Primer 4:1. Top coat is a Carbothane 134 (two part polyurethane) Its as hard as nails! 10 litres set me back about $200. I believe you get it in 4L/1L packs. In my view this is an investment in readiness to repair IF needed knowing paint system will not be compromised.

[Mike Banks]

The first thing I do is to buy proper polymer paint containers for any epoxy paints. The paints last for years--and the tins in which many are supplied do not. Just be sure to label them with permanent markers as to the contents and mixing ratios.

If you wish to break down the quantities into smaller containers--be sure to mix the paint thoroughly before doing so.

It is a good idea to use polymer containers for all paints that can safely be stored in them--and why manufacturers do not offer them as an option probably has more to do with stack-ability than concern for customers.


.

[Compass790]

Best I've found is coal tar epoxy but dont know if it's legal where you are. Sorry cant remember brand names

[hpeer]

Similar issues here,mstillexperimenting. Small 2 parts are problematic.

Friends have suggested Pettit Rustloc. It can be had in pint cans. It wants 5 to 7 coats but. Dries very quickly.mmwhen done right it seems to be a good alternative. EXCEPT it wants to stick the lid to the can so that it's REALLY hard to get the lid off. We have taken to breaking it up into smaller containers like plastic peanut butter jars, each with a little bit.

Another possible approach is to use POR15. It's another one part system. I just ordered some today so no experience yet, but have heard good things. They sell a 6 pack of small cans especially for touch ups. That makes a lot of sense.

[conachair]

Originally Posted by hpeer

Another possible approach is to use POR15. It's another one part system. I just ordered some today so no experience yet, but have heard good things. They sell a 6 pack of small cans especially for touch ups. That makes a lot of sense.

Tried that as well, not great even if the prep is good but it ain't a magic bullet, get 2 part epoxy.

[UNCIVILIZED]

Good stuff to know. Thanks guys!

[davefrediam]

Many thanks for that suggestion, I live in the UK do you know if it is available here?

[davefrediam]

Thanks for your suggestion, I have been thinking down those exact lines. I live in the UK do you know where such containers could be had here?

Thanks Again

Dave

[conachair]

Originally Posted by davefrediam

Many thanks for that suggestion, I live in the UK do you know if it is available here?

I've used Promain before and they seemed oK, though says ameerlok sealer has been discontinued - this came up instead for mechanically prepared steel -
https://www.promain.co.uk/ppg-sigmac...cover-640.html


Also, essential reading..
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Metal-boat-.../dp/B0070QRME4

And a good source of phosphoric acid is wickes, if they still do it -
Wickes Grout Film Remover 1L | Wickes.co.uk

Tricky subject though, without lots of resources and a decade or 2 it's very difficult to get a handle on what's better than what - most people find something which seems to work OK and then that is the best, but without side by side testing long term it's impossible to know for sure with the better epoxies.

[hpeer]

For me the main issue with small quantities of epoxy is mixing it up in the correct quantities. Always a bit of a guessing game.

2 years ago the Wife spent a lot of time grinding down on stanchion bottoms. Painted with Ameron 235, which is usually great stuff. But for some reason that batch didn't stick.

On a related issue, I redid the bottom of our 33 and had big blisters over much of the bottom, even before launching. Agree way too much sanding and redoing I've come to the working theory that I got some kind of pollution from a nearby refinery that messed with the paint adhesion.

So things that work today or here are no guarantee of success tomorrow or there. Unless you are in a controlled space, ha!

[conachair]

Originally Posted by hpeer

For me the main issue with small quantities of epoxy is mixing it up in the correct quantities. Always a bit of a guessing game.

For mixing I use digital kitchen scales and empty tuna tins

You might need to check the weight mixture ratio is the same as the volume mix ratio otherwise works well. Usually anyway, in a rolly anchorage the scales don't work too well.