Starting a diesel that's been idle 10yr on prospective boat?

[SkiprJohn]

Originally Posted by appick

Yes a battery is on the list for not only engine but electrical system checks. Thanks for the thought on oil and the injector oil fill I'll be sure and take a look. Yea I was planning on tapping into the fuel line, as I'm sure the tanks have some serious funk in them by now. I've bled a few diesels in my time and have good line wrenchs so hopefully should be able to follow the lines and bleed screws/ line fittings and bleed in consecutive order using lift pump. Should I spray any fogging oil or the likes down intake while spinning up, or would that be pointless? Yea I know 5 gal wont be much but its all I've got to work with for now. I'll see how accessible the water pump is and try the dawn trick. Should I maybe just hook up the battery spin it up and see if it runs off the old fuel first?

I've talked with the yard about running the engine, they said it was fine just don't do it too long indoors. I'll clarify about potential damages but I think we are good. The mechanic at the yard seems to think it will run. That's the other thing if it does I loose a bargaining chip... haha.

I wouldn't try to run it on old fuel because you could be pumping algae or sludge into the filters and injection system. If you spray fogging oil into the intake while spinning the engine you would make if fire if you have good compression. If there is a compression release then that won't be a problem. WD40 will start the engine and is better for the engine than ether.

I hope she runs.

[appick]

Originally Posted by SkiprJohn

I wouldn't try to run it on old fuel because you could be pumping algae or sludge into the filters and injection system. If you spray fogging oil into the intake while spinning the engine you would make if fire if you have good compression. If there is a compression release then that won't be a problem. WD40 will start the engine and is better for the engine than ether.

I hope she runs.

Thanks me too. Yea I knew that diesels and ether don't mix, I'll bring the WD!

[Opie91]

Originally Posted by appick

It sounds like the yard just wants the boat gone.

This could be your greatest advantage and my current boat was acquired this way. In the end we had to put in a bunch of sweat equity and a bit of money, but ended up with the boat we wanted at a substantial discount.

Like you said earlier the yard just wants the boat gone, so here are a few things I would suggest you negotiate before you sign any purchase agreement on a "Yard" owned boat. Ask them to include launching the boat (or load on trailer), step the mast, land storage and supply a slip for a bit until you are ready to take it to your marina. Do not be afraid to ask for anything that does not really cost them actual money out of their pocket, just things that may take a little labor. All these things the yard was willing to do for me just to help get rid of the boat. The manager even sold me all supplies at his cost while I worked in the boat in his yard!!!

Also let the yard manager, not the broker tell you what he wants out of the boat. You may be surprised at what he/she is willing to take for the boat.

Good luck and let us know how you do!!

[DeborahLee]

It will probably need all new rubber. Like o rings on high pressure injection pump etc. as it sounds like it was repowered before Bio Diesel. Good luck.

[SVTatia]

Originally Posted by Stu Jackson

....I'd add: have the yard start it up, NOT YOU, so if something wrong happens you're not on the hook.

Good advice, but I doubt they will.

Make sure you have lots of water, one bucket will not be sufficient.

Remember: If you run any water through it, the yard will have to re-winterize the engine. Make sure you tell them, whether you buy the boat or not - well, specially if you buy it...

[Stu Jackson]

Originally Posted by SVTatia

Good advice, but I doubt they will.

Make sure you have lots of water, one bucket will not be sufficient.

Remember: If you run any water through it, the yard will have to re-winterize the engine. Make sure you tell them, whether you buy the boat or not - well, specially if you buy it...

Yup:

Winterizing an Engine on the Hard (Thanks to Maine Sail) - NEVER connect a hose to your raw water pump inlet - NEVER!!!

Winterizing A Diesel Engine On The Hard - SailboatOwners.com

This applies to running the engine on the hard, too.

Good luck.

[DeepFrz]

appick, don't just spin it up on the old diesel. The filters are probably toast, who knows what crap is in the lines after sitting 10 or so yrs. Yes, top lube would be good idea. Do make sure the impeller is intact and turns when you turn the engine over by hand.

Or just bargain for bottom dollar if the boat is reasonable and accept what you get.

[appick]

Thanks all, I'll see how far the yard will let me go. I've got a couple of buckets and a few gallons of antifreeze. The plan is to run it for as long as I can on the two buckets, then as I'm getting to the end dump in the antifreeze. This has always worked well with my atomic 4 and the likes. Thanks for all the warnings on the old fuel and filters, I'll be sure and pull off the fuel hose from the outlet of the Racor and put it in the jerry can. I know I won't have enough time to get it up to operating temp but it's better than nothing. I'm willing to be they don't have running water in the storage shed in the middle of winter.

Any other good way to get top lube in without pulling injector or glowplugs? Thanks again you guys rock.

[a64pilot]

Originally Posted by appick

Any other good way to get top lube in without pulling injector or glowplugs? Thanks again you guys rock.

No that I know of and I'd put at least an ounce of MMO in there, let it sit awhile and spin it over before I re-installed the glow plugs to spit out any excess and prevent a hydraulic lock, but it you have a de-compression lever that should prevent a lock too.
A stuck exhaust valve is likely as well, Ideally you want the valve cover off so you can tell if a valve is stuck before the piston tries to close it

[sartorst]

I would not worry about the water until you have seen the engine running for a minute or so the pump needs rebuild anyway, a clamp on amp meter would tell you if you have good glow plugs about 10 amp per plug,a heat gun would really be good hear to heat the air and spray WD40 on the hot metal of the heat gun this makes a very nice hot vapor to start an engine just remember you are the throttle/governor dont over rev!!!I have run engines on wd40 alone. NOW having said that dont take that as proof you have a good engine because a worn out engine that will not start naturally will start using this method

[SaltyMonkey]

Originally Posted by DeepFrz

appick, don't just spin it up on the old diesel. The filters are probably toast, who knows what crap is in the lines after sitting 10 or so yrs. Yes, top lube would be good idea. Do make sure the impeller is intact and turns when you turn the engine over by hand.

Or just bargain for bottom dollar if the boat is reasonable and accept what you get.

+1

[darylat8750]

I would consider just taking the raw water impeller out. For your purpose you don't need to run it long enough to get it warm and won't be able to indoors anyway. If the old impeller comes apart pieces can go down stream into heat exchangers and be hard to know if you get it all out. I like the idea of getting some Kroil, Marvel Mystery Oil or just WD40 in the cylinders and turning it with a wrench before you actually try to start it. Keep the old fuel isolated from the new fuel you take. Be sure to have a way to stop the air supply with a board or something in case it runs away. You may need more than just your hand.....
Diesel runaway vids - TCG

It is possible for a diesel to run away just on the oil getting past the rings...... Not as likely oil from a blown turbo seal but........

[BandB]

I would purchase it on the basis that it's totally salvage and that the engines and all related will have to be completely rebuilt or replaced. I would check best as I could but it sure looks like any extensive checking is going to be quite difficult. Plus, even many of the parts that might check out still are to the point of needing replacement. Hoses, impellers, filters, every part of that nature is going to need replacing. All internal parts will need checking, most cleaning. It pretty much needs to be taken apart as if being rebuilt even if much is salvageable. Hull is where I'd definitely get testing done with a professional using the proper equipment. And all the interior, especially below decks. I can't imagine not having extensive damage from moisture over that time. Just in looking at wiring throughout you should get a quick feeling for how much exposure to the elements has really taken a toll on the boat.

[gonesail]

get yourself a squeeze bulb and install it inline from fuel tank .. so easy to prime the motor from there. injectors are probably rusted in place. turn it over with compression off to lube the internals. good luck.

[appick]

I'll post pics after I take a look and figure a price with the yard. I don't want to post specifics until then, as I don't want to say too much either way.