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26-10-2019, 09:15
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#1
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Texas
Boat: Baba 35
Posts: 381
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Started removing the teak deck.
And drilling out the holes and filling with thickened epoxy. So far about 1/3 of the holes have water penetration and I am digging out the wet balsa. No rot yet just stiff and moist balsa.
It seems the deck was made with what appears to be fiberglass cells isolating groups of screws from each other. Is this a thing that was done or is my imagination running wild? I have found several fiberglass walls connecting the top layer of fiberglass with the bottom layer so that the moisture doesn't spread too far if it gets in.
Or my mind is making it all up because I don't know anything.
Either way, my wife and I are working every weekend, morning to night, on our beloved Baba.
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28-10-2019, 13:57
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#2
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Texas
Boat: Baba 35
Posts: 381
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Re: Started removing the teak deck.
My back lower back hurts. Time waits for no man.
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28-10-2019, 14:04
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#3
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Texas
Boat: Baba 35
Posts: 381
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Re: Started removing the teak deck.
My pic was sideways. Lets try again.
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28-10-2019, 14:12
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#4
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Gympie
Boat: Volkscruiser
Posts: 2,652
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Re: Started removing the teak deck.
I have never heard of fibreglass walls in deck construction but anything is possible. I would be more concerned that you are filling the holes to quick before the deck has a chance to dry? I know Boatpoker does not like moisture meters but my Skipper plus moisture meter is perfect for jobs like this. I would be checking the deck for dryness before I even started filling.
Cheers
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28-10-2019, 14:25
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#5
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2015
Posts: 2,007
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Re: Started removing the teak deck.
Yes, some boats were built with small sheets of balsa, maybe two square feet, that had small gaps between them that were filled with thickened resin when the second layer of fiberglass was added to the deck.
This did create "walls" between the sheets of balsa, limiting water mobility in the case of a compromised deck seal.
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29-10-2019, 07:02
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#6
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Texas
Boat: Baba 35
Posts: 381
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Re: Started removing the teak deck.
Im routing out any moisture I find with an allen wrench on my drill. Then I stuff paper towels in the void until I feel it is dry. Im pretty sure if this wasnt my boat the owner would have run me off long ago with these techniques.
If I screw it up I can always sell the boat to the next sucker....isnt that how the pros do it?
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29-10-2019, 07:03
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#7
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Texas
Boat: Baba 35
Posts: 381
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Re: Started removing the teak deck.
Quote:
Originally Posted by billknny
Yes, some boats were built with small sheets of balsa, maybe two square feet, that had small gaps between them that were filled with thickened resin when the second layer of fiberglass was added to the deck.
This did create "walls" between the sheets of balsa, limiting water mobility in the case of a compromised deck seal.
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Pretty positive this is what im seeing.
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29-10-2019, 07:34
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#8
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Gig Harbor, WA
Boat: 34' Crowther tri sold 16' Kayak now
Posts: 5,067
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Re: Started removing the teak deck.
I'm gonna build my next boat out of fiberglass so it will be waterproof. Then I'm gonna drill 1000 holes in the top because after all what could possibly go wrong.
__________________
Slowly going senile but enjoying the ride.
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29-10-2019, 08:19
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#9
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Skagit City, WA
Posts: 25,453
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Re: Started removing the teak deck.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ttex
And drilling out the holes and filling with thickened epoxy. So far about 1/3 of the holes have water penetration and I am digging out the wet balsa. No rot yet just stiff and moist balsa.
It seems the deck was made with what appears to be fiberglass cells isolating groups of screws from each other. Is this a thing that was done or is my imagination running wild? I have found several fiberglass walls connecting the top layer of fiberglass with the bottom layer so that the moisture doesn't spread too far if it gets in.
Or my mind is making it all up because I don't know anything.
Either way, my wife and I are working every weekend, morning to night, on our beloved Baba.
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Yes Baba's, Passports, and later Hans Christian were made with ~3 to 4" squares of coring to isolate any ingress of water to that local square. I can't tell you that all were though or what year it started. I think all Passport and Baba's. But early HC of the Union 36 type were not I think.
__________________
"I spent most of my money on Booze, Broads and Boats. The rest I wasted" - Elmore Leonard
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11-11-2019, 11:59
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#10
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Texas
Boat: Baba 35
Posts: 381
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Re: Started removing the teak deck.
Oof. My first big problem. Smells like dog poop and amonia. Wish me luck, im going in.
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11-11-2019, 19:17
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#11
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Gympie
Boat: Volkscruiser
Posts: 2,652
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Re: Started removing the teak deck.
Bloody hell you are a bit wild with the 1/2 inch drill bit. Why not remove the chain plate and put a solid block of glass there? Use a plastic container about 4” square as a mold for the fibreglass block.
Good luck and I highly recommend Kiwi grip paint for the non skid. I have seen some professional paint jobs done by amateurs using it.
Cheers
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30-11-2019, 11:14
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#12
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Texas
Boat: Baba 35
Posts: 381
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Re: Started removing the teak deck.
Making progress.
This black glue stuff under the teak is going to be harder to get off than the teak was. I started using a multi tool with a wide cutting blade to remove the black glue stuff and flatten the resin spots for future sanding. Works ok.
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30-11-2019, 11:17
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#13
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Texas
Boat: Baba 35
Posts: 381
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Re: Started removing the teak deck.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fore and Aft
Why not remove the chain plate and put a solid block of glass there?
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Done.
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30-11-2019, 17:47
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#14
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: ORYGUN
Boat: Jeanneau 52.2, Merit 25
Posts: 164
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Started removing the teak deck.
ttex, I’m in the process of removing my teak deck as well. Regarding removal of the black glue stuff, try a wire wheel in a hand held drill motor. Be careful and gentle as not to gouge but as you develop a touch for it, it can actually have a sweeping effect that grabs the black adhesive and removes it with very minimal disruption of fiberglass.
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30-11-2019, 17:53
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#15
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: ORYGUN
Boat: Jeanneau 52.2, Merit 25
Posts: 164
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Started removing the teak deck.
Was able to maintain some of the underlying molded gel coat non-skid pattern with the wire brush method. It will ultimately be sanded and painted anyways, but maintains a good working surface in the meantime.
At any rate, the wire brush won’t clog like sandpaper.
Good luck.
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