Standing rigging replacement Swaged or Non Swaged

[PamlicoTraveler]

I am preparing to replace the standing rigging on my 20 year old boat. I am trying to decide whether to replace with swaged fittings or go to Sta-Lock or something similar. I am sure there are some opinions on here. It doesn't sound like the mechanical fittings are too expensive and I guess they make adjustment and inspection simpler. Are they worth it?

I am old school and out of the loop on the whole subject - so i don't really know what the pros and cons are. Should I shoot for getting mechanical fittings or just stay with the swaged.

Thanks for any feedback on this.

[SV_BlueTurtle]

I have had both, as I’m certain others have.

The short answer is that Sta-lok fittings have a reputation for being somewhat less likely to fail than swaged in most riggers’ real-world experience. Properly swaged fittings should have roughly the same reliability and strength, but the major advantage on the mechanical side is that the fittings can be reused - if you’re planning on being somewhere where easy access to a rigger is not guaranteed, being able to effect a repair on a shroud is a considerable advantage.

Sta-lok also allows you to disassemble, polish, and re-seal your lower fittings as part of your regular inspection process. It’s obviously up to you as to whether you’ll do so, and thus whether that’s an advantage.

Swaged fittings are slightly cheaper, generally.

[Tupaia]

If you are going to use swaged fittings get the rigger to show you some examples of their work preferably on other boats. Not all swages or "swagers" are equal. The swages should be smooth, symmetrical and uniform.

[MicHughV]

When I re-rigged my boat, I had swage fittings fitted to the top of each particular piece for rig and Sta-loks fitted to the bottom.

My concern with swaged fittings was the possibility of seawater/rainwater finding it's way inside the swaged fitting, but being upside down on the top, eliminated this issue, that, and they were less expensive to boot.

Never had an issue with either, but if $$$ is a concern, consider the above.

[OZwingle]

I used Staloks top and bottom, for simplicity and DIY at the dock. Rerigged twice with them, replacing only one fitting. Replaced all the cones and formers of course. When installing beware to clean out the fittings first. Some machining debris in one socket galled and destroyed it. Also, beware of SS galling. Lubricate the threads. 5200 to fill the socket works as a lubricant and thread lock. (Light heat with a propane torch will break the 5200 bond, and it's a very small surface area.) AFIK StaLok recommends filling the socket, Hayn-Hi-MOD does not. Both are well respected.

[GordMay]

If you go Sta-Lok, stock some spare wedges [cones], for each size of fitting used.
Sta-Lok wedges [cones] must be replaced, each time a Sta-Lok DIY self-fit terminal is reused.

[rognvald]

Stalok/Norseman if you're going cruising. You'll never be at the mercy of a dishonest rigger and in my experience . . . I've encountered two very bad ones over the years. Simple, easy, repairable anywhere.
Rognvald

[barryglewis]

Look out if using dyform wire. Apparently ordinary 1x19 has inner strands laid opposite ways, so little twist when under load. With Dyform all the strands are laid in the same direction leading to a tendency to twist under load. Staylocks are fine , however beware of silicone sealant in the threads, it can turn to lube under high stress! Learnt the hard way , (not the hardest, mast not lost).

[HankOnthewater]

Do you need another poster to support to go with mechanical fittings?
I agree with all the above comments.
I replaced rigging on a few boats. I used Norseman once, long time ago, and after that always Stalok. I also looked at Hayn hi-mod, would be happy to use that as well.
I never had issues with Stalok, so I stuck with that brand. The only question i had/have is to fill the fittings with goo or not. I have done that, and later I omitted the goo, as it was too messy with the goo. Never had a problem either way.

I have on my boat Stalok on all wires, top and bottom, due for replacement next year or so, or when my insurance company tells me to. I purchased already a roll of wire.

Edit after seeing above post: my backstay and forestays are currently Dyform, or more appropriately called CS (compact strand), Dyform is/was a brand. My new rigging will be all CS.
That post #8 might point to another vote for not using goo or silicone?

[Jim Cate]

FWIW: We have been using norseman fittings with compact strand wire for around 20 years now and have not had any twist related issues. Honestly, I prefer StaLok, but norseman were on the boat when I bought her.

Jim

[GordMay]

Originally Posted by barryglewis

Look out if using dyform wire. Apparently ordinary 1x19 has inner strands laid opposite ways, so little twist when under load. With Dyform all the strands are laid in the same direction leading to a tendency to twist under load. Staylocks are fine , however beware of silicone sealant in the threads, it can turn to lube under high stress! Learnt the hard way , (not the hardest, mast not lost).

Sta-Lok Dyform & Compacted Wedges
➥ https://www.stalok.com/product/sta-l...pacted-wedges/

How to fit Sta-Lok Self-Fit Terminals
➥ https://www.stalok.com/news/how-to-f...-fit-terminal/
Sta-Lok makes NO mention of any sealant,

[razamataz]

+1 to all of the above

Anybody found a supplier of t termial swageless fittings that fit selden receptacles?

that's the one reason i went with swaged as i could not souce these for the top

if going with swaged you also want to know the supplier credibility for good stainless, BUT also check which swaged machine the rigger is using and how they look after the swaging process

[wholybee]

Opinions of Hi-Mod by Hayn? They are standard with Schaefer furlers, and can be reused without replacing the cone.

[Ryban]

I've re-rigged with norseman and sta-lok, and like others, would recommend this option over a swaged fitting for the ability to inspect without cutting the wire, and for ease of use if you need to replace a wire somewhere you can't find a rigger you trust.

Do carry quantities of the non-reusable parts. so if you do open them up to inspect, you'll be able to correctly re-seal them. Also good to carry a few spare fittings.

Also, do your homework on how to seal/pot the fittings, if at all. Manufacturers have different recommendations here, and it's important not to terminate the wire in a corrosive environment.

[OS2Dude]

When I did a refit on my 1985 Catalina 30 three years ago, I replaced the standing rigging. I bought a 'Trim-to-Fit' set that has swaged fittings at the top and Hayn Hi-Mod compression fittings at the bottom. You have to cut the stays/shrouds to length and put on the compression fittings yourself.

I have never had an issue with the compression fittings, they have held in every condition the boat has been in. They are not hard to assemble once you've done one or two. Only difference with Hi-Mod and Stalok that I'm aware of is the Hi-Mod has a 'castle ring' to hold the strands uniformly while the Stalok does not.

Another benefit of the compression fittings is you can rebuild a broken stay at sea if you have spare wire rope and cones.