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mlydon · 07-05-2020, 21:29

I’ll look into those recommended brushes, was also thinking of trying a prevail (have used those with paint & gelcoat before)

I only stripped the one side (the exterior) as the insides are are in good shape, so no plans to do both sides as some suggested. The insides are also screened, so a bit of a run wouldn’t be critical, also though I will check that I don’t go over the top, and start running down the interior slats.

Update - Just took a pic of the inside, and it appears the slats were probably sprayed....lame job though - not at all smooth....hope I can do better

Matt

briblack · 07-05-2020, 22:19

The sanding that looks to be required here is what would be intimidating for me.

**JPA Cate** · 07-05-2020, 22:26

Sand with the grain. Take the amount of sandpaper that would fit on a sanding block, and fold it in quarters, so that you wind up with a stiff piece, then work along the grain, one hand on each side. ....until you get the teak looking raw again. The new varnish will keep it looking nice.

Ann

Rod B · 08-05-2020, 04:45

I'd follow the advice a friend gave me years ago and apply the finish by spraying it on by what ever means is available once you're happy with sanding. The key is to do it with the door upside down so that any runs end up on the back.

Hoodsail · 08-05-2020, 05:23

What about old school and use a rag to apply? Never tried it as my teak is in easy to get places, but you'd need skinny fingers.

Scaramanga F25 · 08-05-2020, 06:48

I prefer to use Wipe on Poly. That or spray.

Boatyarddog · 08-05-2020, 09:33

Quote:

Originally Posted by mlydon

I’ve managed to strip all the old, nasty, alligatored varnish off my louvered companionway doors.....so how do I varnish the things?

Each door has 26 slats, only about 1/4 inch gaps between them.

Artist brushes? Some kind of foam pad? I’ve got a stock JENS foam brush in the picture for scale....

Matt

I think you should clean the wood well and lighten the color abit.
There seems to be blue algae impregnated in it.
Common theme.
Teak cleaner, and sand with 220.
I used 3/4" chip brush thinned the Cetol, for the first coat, I assume your going to do the inside as well.
Just coat everything well, then use a paper napkin to carefully wipe any excess drips off the louvres edges, then turn upside down allowing gravity to release any trapped Cetol.
Next coat, as Cetol is pretty thick, coat carefully the louvres, being sure not to put to much on at once.
Again, turn over and wipe with the brush, any drips.
Coat this way as much as you'd like.
Cetol needs no sanding between coats, until you leave it for a period of time
I think it's a week.
It will turn out great if you take the time, and use thin coats.
SV Cloud Duster

Cheechako · 08-05-2020, 09:40

As I said earlier, it's very doable. Thin 1" brush, light light coat of varnish on the brush. You just need to do more coats like that. Spraying will just run to the end junctions and not help avoid the runs. Then you'll have to brush the spray anyway. Ever try to spray into the corner of like a wood box? The turbulence doesn't work well.

MJH · 08-05-2020, 10:24

Quote:

Originally Posted by mlydon

I’ve managed to strip all the old, nasty, alligatored varnish off my louvered companionway doors.....so how do I varnish the things?

Each door has 26 slats, only about 1/4 inch gaps between them.

Artist brushes? Some kind of foam pad? I’ve got a stock JENS foam brush in the picture for scale....

Matt

Very patiently!

~ ~ _/) ~ ~ MJH

Lodbrog1 · 08-05-2020, 17:54

Well you have the wood nice and clean but with Varnish it will be very dark. I recommend you do some sanding of both slats, rails, and styles. I realize it is easy to sand all the flat parts...but if you take a paint stirring stick and contact cement it on the stick with only one overlap you have then a great sanding tool. 150 grit will remove most of the grey. Try and get the paper or net really tight and get the corners at a tight 90 degrees. Blow it all off with air gun if you have one..clean twice with lacquer thinner to remove the oil residue and use a 2 part varnish thinned to penetrate well. Use and angled 2 inch bristle brush and do both sides equally and quickly and not too thick. If you can coat it within 24 hours...take a 3m pad slightly abraid all with the paint stir stick...blow it off and recoat again with the 2 part thinned to whatever suits the conditions.After that dries hit it with 180 grit and use whatever varnish you wish 3-4 coats and you should be good for a couple of years depending where you are and the power of the sun, and maintain it. Try to get all your teak the same color (no stain, it is photo reactive) Test you color harmony with denatured alcohol and that will give you a pretty good idea if your wood colors are all within range. That is of course if your looking for natural vs using filler/stain. I know these are the most difficult parts to maintain but they really show off well. Bon Vente

David B · 19-05-2020, 23:29

Quote:

Originally Posted by mlydon

I’ve managed to strip all the old, nasty, alligatored varnish off my louvered companionway doors.....so how do I varnish the things?

Each door has 26 slats, only about 1/4 inch gaps between them.

Artist brushes? Some kind of foam pad? I’ve got a stock JENS foam brush in the picture for scale....

Matt

To start with, the issue with varnish is it eventually (and sometimes that does not mean a long time) cracks and flakes etc.

Consider using one of the 'oil-varnishes' such at Cetol Marine, or Woodskin. After some 7 years now, I have never seen any wear other than slowly washing away as an oil would, but you get a deep, rich finish like a varnish.
Typically, in a fully exposed situation, you are looking at 2-3 years before a wipe over with a turpentine rag, and another coat or two is needed to keep the finish in pristine condition.

As to application, I use a small, long-bristled brush, working outside and inside slat by slat. No big deal - before you know it, you are waiting to put the next coat on.