Skookum 47 Refit - San Francisco to Mexico

[SF Bay Dude]

So the angle grinders are on their way. I've only used them sparingly, so wondering if anyone has any input as to what type of disc I should get to remove the gnarly deck grit? Do I use a flap disc, 50 grit sanding discs, or the grinding wheels? Argh, my brain wants to take a rest. I would think a bit of flex would be nice.

[model 10]

Originally Posted by SF Bay Dude

and it's time to stock up on sanding discs. God only knows how many of those I'll actually need.

Go to an auto body supply store. The prices aren't silly like a boat or hardware store. You can get boxes of 50 or a 100 disks instead a package of 5, or worse an individual disk.

[SF Bay Dude]

Go to an auto body supply store. The prices aren't silly like a boat or hardware store. You can get boxes of 50 or a 100 disks instead a package of 5, or worse an individual disk.

Good idea Guy. I found some stuff on Amazon that are in packs of 25 or 50. My example may not have been the most economical. I know a guy though, and I'll swing by to see what's shaking. Thanks for the idea!

And after you tubing flap grinder, looks like I don't need that unless I will be polishing metal. So that's out. Looks like grinding discs and some gnarly grit on a backing pad to get the fun going. Yee-haw!

[model 10]

Originally Posted by SF Bay Dude

Looks like grinding discs and some gnarly grit on a backing pad to get the fun going. Yee-haw!

I bought a box of 16 grit 7" stick-on's. They were so "gnarly" they broke my older Porter Cable variable speed. I really like that sander so I bought another. It works great on my 1500 watt inverter too.

[captain58sailin]

Unless you are moving a lot of material, I wouldn't go rougher than 60 grit on the start. With angle grinders it is very easy to dig a groove in your surface, I like orbital sanders for most work like that. I would take several.

[SF Bay Dude]

Unless you are moving a lot of material, I wouldn't go rougher than 60 grit on the start. With angle grinders it is very easy to dig a groove in your surface, I like orbital sanders for most work like that. I would take several.

I'm afraid that the aggressiveness of the deck will eat up the sanding discs. I've got to get the first layer of grit off, and then I can switch the RO Sander to finish off the layer of gelcoat to get it down to bare glass. I know it's hard to see from the previous picture I posted on page 4 of the thread, but I think a grinder with a pad and and some 24 or 36 grit is going to be needed.

I'll try all the options once I am down there to see what works.

[captain58sailin]

Good luck to you and please wear a respirator and eye protection.

[knottybuoyz]

Hey Dude

If you have a belt sander try the 36 grit belts. They'll remove a lot of material in a short period of time and not gouge your surfaces like a high speed spinning wheel of death.

I found the Norton Red Heat discs the best but spendy. I seem to get more mileage out of the Lowes 'Gator' brand. $11 for 25 and they have them down to 40 grit.

[SF Bay Dude]

It's like Christmas around here. Stuff is showing up from Amazon everyday. Glad we have Prime. Stuff gets here so fast.

Have a quick question. How much Griptex (or whatever aggregate I choose) will I need to cover the decks? I like Minaret's idea of mixing the coarse and fine Griptex together. If I go that route, would a quart of each be enough, or do I need more?

Thanks!

[minaret]

Originally Posted by SF Bay Dude

It's like Christmas around here. Stuff is showing up from Amazon everyday. Glad we have Prime. Stuff gets here so fast.

Have a quick question. How much Griptex (or whatever aggregate I choose) will I need to cover the decks? I like Minaret's idea of mixing the coarse and fine Griptex together. If I go that route, would a quart of each be enough, or do I need more?

Thanks!

Depends on application method. If you plan on mixing it into the paint and applying by spray or roller, then 1-2 qts of each will be enough. If you plan to sprinkle on, double or triple that.

[SF Bay Dude]

I'm going with manual application. Thanks!

Shake that body. Shake shake shake!

[SF Bay Dude]

Whoa, 3M fairing board sandpaper - Imperial - is pricey! Going to roll with, well, some rolls from porter cable/mirka or whatever else pops up. I have so many sandpaper grits and types in my shopping cart right now, my head is spinning. What say you internet forum? Fairing board grits… 100, 220, 400?

Also a quick run down on quantities for my 6" RO Sanders. I've packs of fifty (50) in grits of 40, 60, 80 100, 220, & 320. Should I up the count on any of them?

Got a couple 5 inch grinders as well with 24 grit to take the aggressive tread off that's currently on the boat. I have been toying with the idea of getting a 7" polisher/sander combo, sticking a sanding pad with 36 grit on it, but I don't think it's necessary at this point with the grinders. Idea was it would take off more material than the grinders, but would it be that much faster? Dunno...

My eyes are bugging out. Off to sleep.

[minaret]

Originally Posted by SF Bay Dude

Whoa, 3M fairing board sandpaper - Imperial - is pricey! Going to roll with, well, some rolls from porter cable/mirka or whatever else pops up. I have so many sandpaper grits and types in my shopping cart right now, my head is spinning. What say you internet forum? Fairing board grits… 100, 220, 400?

Also a quick run down on quantities for my 6" RO Sanders. I've packs of fifty (50) in grits of 40, 60, 80 100, 220, & 320. Should I up the count on any of them?

Got a couple 5 inch grinders as well with 24 grit to take the aggressive tread off that's currently on the boat. I have been toying with the idea of getting a 7" polisher/sander combo, sticking a sanding pad with 36 grit on it, but I don't think it's necessary at this point with the grinders. Idea was it would take off more material than the grinders, but would it be that much faster? Dunno...

My eyes are bugging out. Off to sleep.

Use Indasa Redline for torture board grit. It's much cheaper and almost as good. Drop the 320 discs and get 180. I'd remove old gel, prime with new gel, prep everything to 180 or 220, then spray finish gel pretty heavy about 24 mils, or 3 8-10 wet mil coats. From there I'd go straight to 800 wet. Much of your polishing will be on detail corners and contours, as much of the flats will be nonskid, except for the house sides. If you are trying to save money over time, stick with just wet sanding paper. Sand 800, 1000, 1,200 then polish with 3M gelcoat polishing compound. Then glaze, then wax. Dry guide coat between grits. Don't forget to order rolls of stikit gold for hand sanding. There will be a whole lot of detail work. Order 80-180. Skipping from 100-220 won't work out well. Use 80-120-150-180. Sometimes you can get away with 80-150-180. I love 150, it's an intermediate grit many don't use. Can be a big time saver. Obviously don't spray finish gel and polish out where you will be applying nonskid. Spray and polish all the smooth first, then lay nonskid. A Makita with softpad would be wise. You will need one anyway for polishing. If you up the count on discs, make it 180-220. After you apply primer gel, you will use a ton of those grits to prep the primer for topcoat. Especially if you don't get a great surface cure. And definitely don't forget the guide coat! Mirka makes one now too.

[SF Bay Dude]

As always, thank you Minaret. I need to apologize as well, because you've been answering on the premise that I was going to gelcoat. It was my original intention to put gel back on, but after seeing the limitations of the yard's electrical source (undersized breakers) that could bog down with compressor, along with having to tent, buying decent spray equipment + compressor, along with a few other variables, I've decided to fair and paint. Still weighing between Quickfair compound or West System + 410 (haven't quite decided yet) for the fairing. Going with Awlgrip for the paint.

I just placed a big order on Amazon for all my sanding and tool needs. I got rolls for the longboard from 80-180 like you said, and I've got a full range of sanding discs from 40 to 320.

I have a talk scheduled with an Awlgrip rep today regarding 545 Primer vs the Awlquick. Sounds to me like Awlquick will lay on a bit thicker and be easier to sand after the main filler and fairing work is done. Their literature also states that if surfaces are prepped with Awlquick, I don't need to lay on a top coat of primer 545 before final topcoat application. Have to decided on color for the paint too. I am thinking "Snow White" for the cabin. Seems like a clean and simple white. Non-skid… maybe "Off-White", "Matterhorn White", or "Eggshell". Oh decisions…

Also, knottybuoyz, I watched a few of your vids on youtube with the flex-cat. I'll see you in sanding hell soon enough my friend

[minaret]

Originally Posted by SF Bay Dude

As always, thank you Minaret. I need to apologize as well, because you've been answering on the premise that I was going to gelcoat. It was my original intention to put gel back on, but after seeing the limitations of the yard's electrical source (undersized breakers) that could bog down with compressor, along with having to tent, buying decent spray equipment + compressor, along with a few other variables, I've decided to fair and paint. Still weighing between Quickfair compound or West System + 410 (haven't quite decided yet) for the fairing. Going with Awlgrip for the paint.

I just placed a big order on Amazon for all my sanding and tool needs. I got rolls for the longboard from 80-180 like you said, and I've got a full range of sanding discs from 40 to 320.

I have a talk scheduled with an Awlgrip rep today regarding 545 Primer vs the Awlquick. Sounds to me like Awlquick will lay on a bit thicker and be easier to sand after the main filler and fairing work is done. Their literature also states that if surfaces are prepped with Awlquick, I don't need to lay on a top coat of primer 545 before final topcoat application. Have to decided on color for the paint too. I am thinking "Snow White" for the cabin. Seems like a clean and simple white. Non-skid… maybe "Off-White", "Matterhorn White", or "Eggshell". Oh decisions…

Also, knottybuoyz, I watched a few of your vids on youtube with the flex-cat. I'll see you in sanding hell soon enough my friend

I'd stay away from both Quickfair and Awlquick. High build primers lead to problems and lack of longevity. Seen a lot of blistering down the road due to solvent popping-solvent retention in the hi-build. I'd also stay away from 410. Too soft and light. Fair with WEST & 407, prime with 545 only if you want best results. It's exactly the factors that make it more difficult to work with that also make it last longer-hardness/durability. I think you may find that a decent paint job actually requires substantially more equipment and materials than gel. Do a bit of searching on the forum, and you will find at least one person who has successfully completed this job, in gelcoat, without spraying at all, in the slip (cpa, Compass 47).



http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/...7-a-63816.html