Should you paint the bilge?

[Nico Domino]

I used flowcoat after properly cleaning in similar condition -rust. A number of years now, still like new.

[coopec43]

Coverage is approximately 600g of Flowcoat per square metre, depending on operating temperature, therefore 1/2kg will cover 0.8 sq mt.
Therefore 4L will cover 6.4 m2

Rust Guard coverage
Volume1L

Weight 1kg
Indoor Yes
Outdoor Yes
Application Method Brush, Roller or Spray

Coverage Area 16 m2

[djousset]

Thanks for all the input. All rust now cleaned away, degreasing next. Researching al the products recommended.

[coopec43]

[QUOTE=djousset;3220954]Thanks for all the input. All rust now cleaned away, degreasing next. Researching al the products recommended.


Geeez! Someone thanked OP for their responses!

Cheers.

[s/v Jedi]

Originally Posted by djousset

Thanks for all the input. All rust now cleaned away, degreasing next. Researching al the products recommended.
Attachment 222335

Attachment 222336

Attachment 222337

We have a 1994 Sundeer, built by TPI where the P stands for Pierson. We have the exact same setup with keel bolts, nothing changed in those years

[mcarthur]

Hey Jedi, is your Sundeer aluminium? (apparently some were glass?)

If so, are your bilges painted? I'm thinking of painting just upto say 200mm/8" above the keel in something like an epoxy paint to be able to see problems easily (dropped things, water/oil/liquids, etc).

[s/v Jedi]

Originally Posted by mcarthur

Hey Jedi, is your Sundeer aluminium? (apparently some were glass?)

If so, are your bilges painted? I'm thinking of painting just upto say 200mm/8" above the keel in something like an epoxy paint to be able to see problems easily (dropped things, water/oil/liquids, etc).

Yess, all but the original Sundeer are in fiberglass; all built by TPI in Newport, Rhode Island. They are built with vinylester resin.

From factory the bilges have been flowcoated but I’m painting them with the Interprotect2000 or now TotalProtect epoxy as I go through bilge areas. I recommend to paint the whole inside with that, even behind wall and ceiling panels. It greatly reduces mold/mildew and makes keeping clean so much easier. Just the sanding done for prep makes a big difference as many areas are left rather rough by the builder

[Exile]

Originally Posted by s/v Jedi

Yess, all but the original Sundeer are in fiberglass; all built by TPI in Newport, Rhode Island. They are built with vinylester resin.

From factory the bilges have been flowcoated but I’m painting them with the Interprotect2000 or now TotalProtect epoxy as I go through bilge areas. I recommend to paint the whole inside with that, even behind wall and ceiling panels. It greatly reduces mold/mildew and makes keeping clean so much easier. Just the sanding done for prep makes a big difference as many areas are left rather rough by the builder

Big job! And one that's been on my list but should probably be prioritized. Thanks for the suggestions on which products are best to use. Would hate to have to take this one on more than once.

[s/v Jedi]

Originally Posted by Exile

Big job! And one that's been on my list but should probably be prioritized. Thanks for the suggestions on which products are best to use. Would hate to have to take this one on more than once.

That’s why I don’t do it as a project, but do a section where I’m working anyway. The keel sump is an important one as it can have standing water and the barrier coatings are exactly the right product. They are also easy because they have a long pot life (don’t forget 15 minutes induction time after mixing) and once they kick it’s dry and done

[Exile]

Originally Posted by s/v Jedi

That’s why I don’t do it as a project, but do a section where I’m working anyway. The keel sump is an important one as it can have standing water and the barrier coatings are exactly the right product. They are also easy because they have a long pot life (don’t forget 15 minutes induction time after mixing) and once they kick it’s dry and done

Yeah, I've picked off easier areas over the years, just using the commonly found (one-part) bilge paints from Pettit, etc. Probably ok since these areas generally stay dry. Of course the keel sump is probably the most important but on my boat (encapsulated keel) it is also the most difficult to access. One of those deep, narrow ones under the back of the engine with all sorts of obstacles in the way. But as you suggest, not an area to be neglected indefinitely, even though I don't have keel bolts.

I suspect the TotalBoat product is a fair bit less expensive than the IP 2000, and probably performs just as well. I've had good success generally thus far with TB products from Jamestown.

[bclaude]

Other than the aesthetics, keeping the bilge nice and clean (Painted) is good seamanship. If something goes wrong and you develop any kind of leak you will be able to tell and trace it much quicker. I have had to taste water in my bilge to determine if it was fresh water leaking from my tanks or sea water ingress. I was glad my bilge was clean and not slushing with oil and debris.

[Happ]

Originally Posted by s/v Jedi

Clean and degrease everything really well, then use dewaxer and surface prep from Totalboat or Awlgrip, then use either Interprotect2000 or TotalProtect. You can choose white or gray.

Even though this is called a primer, for the bilge you can consider it all you need as there will be no UV damage.

These paints are a big step up from bilge paints.

I have never used those products but if it is a primer I would add one more coat. Many years ago I had to repaint the bilge. A yard recommended I use the paint they paint the inside of hen houses with! The reasoning is that nothing sticks to it. When they clean the hen houses they just hide them down. As it turned out one of my best friend’s Father was a GM of an egg farm. I asked him and he confirmed that they literally just use a hose to clean the inside of the hen houses out. He gave me the name of what they use. With a brush I painted a coat on. It was magic!!!!!! Nothing ever stuck to it. Always bright white.

[s/v Jedi]

Originally Posted by Happ

I have never used those products but if it is a primer I would add one more coat. Many years ago I had to repaint the bilge. A yard recommended I use the paint they paint the inside of hen houses with! The reasoning is that nothing sticks to it. When they clean the hen houses they just hide them down. As it turned out one of my best friend’s Father was a GM of an egg farm. I asked him and he confirmed that they literally just use a hose to clean the inside of the hen houses out. He gave me the name of what they use. With a brush I painted a coat on. It was magic!!!!!! Nothing ever stuck to it. Always bright white.

It is a barrier coat, which can also be used as a primer for metal or fiberglass.

[Tanqueray]

Originally Posted by djousset

It's clear that my bilge was painted at one time (photos) but most of it is gone
now. I assume this is fiberglass? Which I believe can/will absorb water over time? So...should I be repainting this and if so what's the best prep and paint?

That fiberglass in the bottom of the bilge sure looks like it was added by a PO.

But to answer your question, I used Interlux Bilge-Koat under my engine, under my water tanks, etc. applied well and has stuck for years.

I used white because I wanted to brighten up dark areas (engine compartment in particular).


Greg

[Matt Johnson]

Originally Posted by Nicholson58

We used Sherwin Williams Tile Clad. This is used for lining and waterproofing tanks. Two versions. Fast and ridiculously fast. It is two part epoxy, gloss white. Cost is far lower than anything else I could find. Mix only small amounts and use throw away brushes. I recommend thinning.

I painted the bilge and the hull anywhere it showed when floors or cabinets were opened. Bright white makes it easier to see in the usual dim lighting.

This coating closely resembles white epoxy pool paint for anyone familiar with that application. For that matter, 2-part epoxy pool paint would be another possible choice.

https://industrial.sherwin-williams....s.9934986.html

I second the Tile-Clad Sherwin Williams paint. Unlike some of the others, it's a high gloss paint with a very easy clean surface.

Matt