Sewing 40 gauge window plastic

[dmksails]

I need to replace my dodger and I'm wondering about how to do the windows. The existing dodger uses very thick plastic - I think at least 40 gauge. I would like to use the same, but pretty sure my sewing machine will not go thru that. are there other options for attaching these? I was thinking I might drill the holes and sew them on by hand. Anyone try that?

[tkeithlu]

If you go that route I recommend you melt the holes rather than drilling then - a drill will give it extra opportunities to find stress points from which to tear. A soldering iron works well.

The alternative is glue. You'll want one that is flexible and able to grab both cloth and the plastic. That suggests something like contact cement.

You might experiment with melting the vinyl into the cloth. I'm not sure what the melting temperatures are for the vinyl or the cloth, so that's definitely "Proceed with Caution."

Anther route is a Sailrite sewing machine. That would be a big investment if this is your only use for one.

Good luck with it.

[wingless]

If going the sewing machine route, my Juki DNU1541A will punch through ½" of leather w/o even breathing hard.

[senormechanico]

Originally Posted by dmksails

I need to replace my dodger and I'm wondering about how to do the windows. The existing dodger uses very thick plastic - I think at least 40 gauge. I would like to use the same, but pretty sure my sewing machine will not go thru that. are there other options for attaching these? I was thinking I might drill the holes and sew them on by hand. Anyone try that?

Hi from Whidbey.

I am a Certified Bernina Technician, so I think I can speak with some authority about sewing through 40 gauge vinyl.
Your sewing machine might not do it if it's a Singer Featherweight, but almost any other home sewing machine shouldn't have a problem with it.
Just use a good sharp needle of the proper size for the thread and fabric.
A little bit of testing on a scrap will give you confidence.
Steve B.

[Gregg927]

Sailrite’s YouTube has great videos on just about everything.

[sailingchiro]

My sailrite didn't have any problems. I tested by manually sewing the machine through the plastic first. Once it gets started, no problem. I would use Eisenglass. It is more flexible than hard rigid plexiglass. I have never sown through hard rigid plexiglass. Seems like it would break the needles.

Getting a sailrite machine was one of my best presents from my wife. I use it for everything. I made my mainsail, cockpit cushions, chaps, headsail, repaired Code Zero, altered spinnaker, salon cushions, cushion covers, dodger, hatch covers etc. etc. Saved us thousands!

BTW they have a good sale for Christmas (seems like it is 15%off) . Saved quite a bit of money. I have the zigzag.

Next project is a screecher.

[bcboomer]

O'Sea is probably the best vinyl, but I'd use a coated polycarbonate like Makrolon (now known as Tuffak).
A lot clearer and the coated versions are reportedly really durable as well.

[wintergull]

I use a Consew with a size 22 needle with a diamond point. It goes through the stratoglass just fine. The sailrite heavy duty machine is comparable. Call them and talk to them.

I even tried it with a sample of 30 mil makrolon and 2 layers of double coated stamoid. Unfortunately, I ordered 40 mil makrolon by mistake. The machine had a bit of a problem going through the 40 mil makrolon sandwiched between 2 layers of stamoid. The solution was to heat the makrolon with a heat gun before sewing. It was a slow process but it worked.

If you are interested in seeing the process for the cockpit enclosure go to this site and scroll down to extreme sewing.

S/V LUX: Sewing Projects

So, get yourself a heavy duty machine and size 22 diamond point needles. If you use makrolon, stick with 30 mil max. You will be fine. The money you save by not having it done will pay for the machine. The advantage of polycarbonate is that it is like window glass - no distortion. Of course, if you have to roll up the window, that will not work.

[zstine]

I have used a clear 4200 3M caulk/adhesive after paying someone to restitch my dodger and the windows then leaked. Use painters tape to keep the caulk off places you don't want it. Lay the dodger flat and set the window in place (dry fit and make sure it all lines up), then put a bead of caulk, place the window and add weights (books) to the seam and let it cure. You likely can only do 1 window at a time or it won't lay flat.

[Ranger2727]

I would get a walking foot machine (some Sailrites have this feature) Don't use plexiglass, good chance of breaking, polycarbonate with haze over in exposed to sun. Use a # 18 or 20,maybe a 22 gauge needle. Lay the new vinyl on top of the old vinyl while its still sewn to the old dodger, trace the old patterned window, allowing for seams, then cut new glass, use double sided tape (from sailrite,) to adhere new plastic over the border and sew it down. If you have the patience to open the seam between the old vinyl and insert the new vinyl between the old vinyl and canvas with double stick tape all the way around to keep the new vinyl from moving. It's important to keep the new vinyl from moving, otherwise there will be wrinkles either in the canvas or vinyl. Remember to cut a small slit into the old vinyl to start the cutting point for the scissors before you sew it down. If you have a steady hand an exacto razor knife you may score the old vinyl, and with the slit you are to start tearing will be able to tear along the knife score. Practice, practice on scrap vinyl to understand the scoring and tearing process. If you take the old vinyl out before you insert the new vinyl, you WILL have WRINKLES. Basically you'll be sewing the new vinyl on top of the old vinyl, but on the inside of the dodger.

[n5ama]

I have two Singer sewing machines from the 40s-50s. They are straight stitch machines (a model 66 and a later model 201-2) but will both sew the dodger gauge plastic from Sailrite. I bought the model 66 for $75 in near new condition and only had to lubricate it. The 201-2 cost me $125 and another $15 for a manual. I also lubed it before using it. Most of the modern consumer machines that you buy now have plastic gears and parts and probably wouldn't hold up to heavy duty sewing. These earlier machines have steel gears and parts and are very heavily built (almost indestructible). These machines are straight stitch and don't do zigzag or button holes or ???? without special attachments but will sew through two layers of plastic and dodger cover material that Sailrite recommends on their dodger window tutorial.

I think you may find that sewing the window plastic plus a few layers of Sunbrella isn't all that difficult. With a new needle, either of these machines should do the job for you. For $75 you can test it's capacity and if it don't work, you aren't out much money and you will have something that will easily sew up some canvas bags or other useful sailing items.

[Disailor]

I used superglue (not the gel). I remove the dodger each winter & 5 years without leaks or loss of adhesion. Position carefully & lay a side by side double "bead" about 4" long. Press the joint with a book for 60 seconds then proceed with the next 4" to 6".

[jewt]

I have used my Sailrite LZ-1 to make a dodger and side curtains for my Morgan-41 and my current Morgan-44 CC without any trouble. Just use a sharp # 20 needle

jewt Bifrost-8
New Bern, NC

[dmksails]

Originally Posted by Disailor

I used superglue (not the gel). I remove the dodger each winter & 5 years without leaks or loss of adhesion. Position carefully & lay a side by side double "bead" about 4" long. Press the joint with a book for 60 seconds then proceed with the next 4" to 6".

This sounds interesting. Did you remove the old window first? Also - what superglue did you use? The only thing I can seem to glue together with superglue is my fingers!

[jewt]

Did remove the old window but no glue,. just double stitched.

jewt