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Old 02-09-2012, 16:38   #16
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Join Date: Mar 2008
Boat: 1914 Fantail M.Y. "Strathbelle"
Posts: 229
It is the other way around, needle gun first will knock away the junk and blasting will clean the metal.

The areas in the photos, I would just hit those directly with the needle gun. I clears away dirt, paint, and everything. Then you can see the true condition of the metal. If still structurally sound or not needed for structure, just needle gun, corroseal, and paint. Done.

MIG is the easiest to make look good as a beginner. Stick (ARC)would be second choice (it costs a lot less and is easiest to move about the boat) but it takes skill.

Do not weld the outside of the boat without making sure you are not lighting the interior on fire. You should strip both sides and have someone inside with a hose as fire watch.


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Old 02-09-2012, 17:29   #17
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Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Australia, Hervey Bay QLD
Boat: Boden 36 Triple chine long keel steel, named Nekeyah
Posts: 888
Re: Rust Bucket!

You can weld on the boat in the water. I use a 6 KVA petrol generator. Mig and stick are useful depending on what you are doing. Stick may seem harder, but if you end up with a good looking weld the chances are that it will be structurally sound. With a mig you can have a lovely looking weld which may not have much penetration and therefore not much strength. This is especially true with gasless mig - I would not use that at all.
Your best bet is to go and do a short course on both types.
As far as tools , buy a needle gun, a hand held sandblaster ( the sort that sucks grit out of a bucket - never use anything but proper grit ) and a compresser with enough capacity to run those tools. Be careful of chipping inside under the waterline!! Also useful is a self darkening welding helmet and some disposable earplugs.
I would not hire, as it looks like you will have hours of work so the tools will pay for themselves. Have a look on TradeMe for second hand gear.
Another good investment is a filtered airsource for yourself - you will be making lots of dust. 3M sells good gear, with a fan unit on a belt and a full face helmet, they are expensive but so are your lungs and eyes.
You will need to check the entire hull from the inside, even if it entails removing panelling to do so. Maybe one of those borescopes that you can connect to a laptop may be useful.
If you find rusty areas, try to work out why they rusted. You my be able to re design to avoid water pooling etc.
The good thing about steel is that the repair should be as strong as the original, and if you do it properly the boat should be trouble free for a long tome.
I am inspecting Nekeyah completely for the first time in 25 yrs and am finding very little of importance so far. The hardest part is destroying timberwork to get at things.
Regards,
Richard.
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