Rudder nightmare at sea

[Bluewaters2812]

Originally Posted by Nicholson58

I don't know the geometry of your vessel but on our Camper Nicholson 58 the rudder post exits the hull above water. If your bearing is near the water line or even below, weight the bow to elevate the through-hull. Our mizzen boom has a means to drop a block through the emergency tilller port on deck and we can hook onto the lift eye on the top of the rudder post. The short of it is we can drop & change our rudder in the water. Still, not easy and a dive would be necessary.

Years ago we lost the spade rudder off a Heritage One-Ton during a race. 4-1/2 inch diameter SS post snapped. No sailing as you noted in your post

Thanks, the bearing is below the waterline. If the old bearing is still intact and in place we should be fine, otherwise it means removing it. According to the Beneteau rep they can replace it in the water but not sure how they will do that because it has to be glued. He says they glue them underwater all the time??

[a64pilot]

There are several waterproof adhesives, most if not all would be two part I believe? Heck even the Romans had water proof cement

[Fiveslide]

Originally Posted by Bluewaters2812

Its a composite/firbreglass/resin.

Ok. Solid SS would take a loooong time to drill. That's what I was expecting since the manufacturer said a day.

[a64pilot]

Originally Posted by Fiveslide

Ok. Solid SS would take a loooong time to drill. That's what I was expecting since the manufacturer said a day.

As a manufacturer, I can tell you it was almost certainly the time it takes to process the paperwork and have the rudder flow through the particular dept., plus of course even a couple of hours could mean missing pickup time of whichever shipper is used, so it ships tomorrow. How 5 mins of work turns into all day.

[bfloyd4445]

Originally Posted by Bluewaters2812

Next failure? I hope not, we've had enough for the moment thanks.

yes I hope not as well.
sorry for the comment but I just don't like the composition shaft with the steel bearing surface. The two don't go good together. steel then a Teflon insert then the composition rudder shaft would be better in my opinion because the Teflon would also flex, compress, to protect the shaft wereas steel dosent do that it just smashes the fibers setting the stage for failure in time.
I'm no expert. When I used to do research I often had to manufacture my own test systems to gather the necessary data and often things would break. I had issues using fiber rods with steel bearings cause rod flex caused failure over time. Solved the problem by using like material for the bearings and larger bearing area so the system would flex together.

[geoleo]

Originally Posted by minaret

Meh. I usually two rag with lots of 202 several times (at least 3). With acetone I wouldn't be happy until I'd done it half a dozen times, at least. Acetone evaporates too quickly and is not aggressive enough. Failing 202 use xylene followed by a final tone wipe, all two rag. Sand 80, then 6 coats of Interlux 2000e, then two coats bottom paint. Bring the 2000 up onto the shaft 1/4"; prep first.

your rich

[minaret]

Originally Posted by georgetheleo

your rich

Doing it right the first time is much cheaper than doing it twice.

[bfloyd4445]

Originally Posted by minaret

Doing it right the first time is much cheaper than doing it twice.

and doing the job with cheap materials insures you will be doing it again unless you unload your boat on some other person before it fails

[malbert73]

Originally Posted by georgetheleo

your rich

Really? After spending 5-8K on new rudder and shipping, and spending an extra $200 to make sure no water ingress and future failure?

IMO using quality materials correctly is always worth the cost in the medium and long run.

[LakeSuperior]

"Penny wise and pound foolish?"

[donradcliffe]

Originally Posted by georgetheleo

Yes if they had skegs they would be less snag prone and far stronger overall---plus would also steer better...... Long ago I had a Newport 41 sloop that had a spade rudder----it was almost unmanageable off the wind......

Your credibility is pretty low--the Newport 41 has a skeg hung rudder.

[geoleo]

No yourcred sucks-- the 1970-73 models had no skeg

[geoleo]

Originally Posted by georgetheleo

No yourcred sucks-- the 1970-73 models had no skeg

It drew 6-9 and had a foam block at tip of keel filling in where a trim tab in keel mold was allowed for-overall a very crappy boat that looked a beaut The guy using 6 coats of 2000e on a new rudder is rich

[colemj]

A gallon of 2000e costs $70 and will easily do 6 coats on a rudder. That is not "rich".

Mark

[geoleo]

True if your DIY but if the yard waits 6x for the drying times -its probably 3 extra days yard time -maybe more+ yard labor for the 4 extra coats when 2 coats are recommended and fine --that equals 'rich' in both time and money------oh well while waiting for the extra coats have the yard put on 6 coats of wax on topsides--what the heck