Rot repair in wooden superstructure /sheer plank

[WLUCKY]

Hi boaters,

This is my first port on the forum, I'll try to make it a good one...

I've just started refiting a fiberglass Ingrid 38, with a plywood deck and superstructure. Unfortunately, though the deck is feels sound, there is rampant rot in the sheer plank that is bolted around the perimeter. This is hypothetically what supports the whole deck and superstructure.

My plan is to sister in New sections of this board. The cross beams feel solid, but may have to sister in New joints to re-connect them to the sheer planks.

I'm hoping to do this all without cutting up the deck. I've located and sealed the area that water was getting in, and luckily there is no evidence of rot in the chain plates backing plates.

Anyone done a project like this and have pointers or ideas? To be honest, I'm in the overwhelmed part of project planning for this one...

Cheers.

[mike d.]

I would say that is a structural part of the hull to deck joint, if you look at from a wood boat construction standpoint ! It would stop flex at the hull to deck joint ! sections would allow flex !

[otterhound]

To do do the repair correctly will be a big deal as the rotted wood should really be removed and replaced. Also it's likely that the rot has spread into at least some of the deck beam ends. Figure on finding at least twice as much as you initially thought. Ingrids are very nice boats and certainly worthy of the work though. Best of luck!
Rod

[WLUCKY]

Thanks otterhound. That's just about what I expect going into this. The Ingrid is a good boat, she just need a lot of love and a rotectomy. The end result is hopefully a go anywhere boat.

[WLUCKY]

Originally Posted by mike d.

I would say that is a structural part of the hull to deck joint, if you look at from a wood boat construction standpoint ! It would stop flex at the hull to deck joint ! sections would allow flex !

I would agree, definitely structural. If I could, I would tear up the deck and replace the plank as a single piece long as possible. As it stands, I'm likely going to have to piece in sections, hopefully 10 or so feet, and re-enforce the joints.

[Lepke]

You have 2 problems. One is to make the boat sound and safe and the other is to get your repairs past a surveyor when you sell the boat. A crappy job now will cost you later. Even though you stopped the leaks, the rot will travel until the wood is totally dry or you manage to kill the rot organisms. I use arsenic and copper solutions. But arsenic can be hard to get. They always ask if I'm married. I don't know why.
It looks like the sheer plank is notched for the beams. Depending on how the beams are attached, you could build a support system to hold the beams and remove the sheer plank in sections. Use the old one as a pattern and splicing it together as you go. I would make the new plank in two pieces, half of the thickness of the old and make sure solid wood overlaps each splice joint. Probably 18" or more splices. Glue it all together with epoxy.
I use to have a yard known for commercial wood boat building, repair and some other things. If you'd like a detailed explanation send me a private message. I could give you some easier, cheaper ways that will pass a survey, but don't want to put it out publicly like a blanket recommendation.

[minaret]

Originally Posted by WLUCKY

Hi boaters,

This is my first port on the forum, I'll try to make it a good one...

I've just started refiting a fiberglass Ingrid 38, with a plywood deck and superstructure. Unfortunately, though the deck is feels sound, there is rampant rot in the sheer plank that is bolted around the perimeter. This is hypothetically what supports the whole deck and superstructure.

My plan is to sister in New sections of this board. The cross beams feel solid, but may have to sister in New joints to re-connect them to the sheer planks.

I'm hoping to do this all without cutting up the deck. I've located and sealed the area that water was getting in, and luckily there is no evidence of rot in the chain plates backing plates.

Anyone done a project like this and have pointers or ideas? To be honest, I'm in the overwhelmed part of project planning for this one...

Cheers.

The beam in question is called a sheer clamp. I wouldn't recommend sistering anything on this boat, that's a technique generally reserved for frames on wooden hulls. It's remove and replace here, using an airplane scarf preferably. If you keep the boat near Seattle, I'd be willing to drop by sometime and give some free pro advice. For the record, you may not like it!

[WLUCKY]

Originally Posted by minaret

The beam in question is called a sheer clamp. I wouldn't recommend sistering anything on this boat, that's a technique generally reserved for frames on wooden hulls. It's remove and replace here, using an airplane scarf preferably. If you keep the boat near Seattle, I'd be willing to drop by sometime and give some free pro advice. For the record, you may not like it!

Hi minaret, I'm not familiar with the airplane joint, and Google didn't produce much that fit. Is there another name this joint goes by?
I actually just moved to Seattle to San Diego to start working on the boat.. So unfortunately I can't get the free pro advice...

[Scout 30]

For more advice you might try the WoodenBoat Forum.

[seasick]

Consider removing the entire shear clamp and all related fastenings and lay up a new one with as long of battens as can be fitted, glued and screwed in place, notching for the deck framing as you go. In some instances, it may be desirable to cut out temporary “ports” in the stern section to allow the longest possible battens to be inserted down the interior shear length, passing through the bulkheads and cabinetry. These will be flexed against the cleaned hull just below, the deck frames. Mark the location and depth of the deck frame notches and cut these notches into you batten. Once all is laid up and cured, drill down through the old fastening hole in the outer deck frame through the new shear clamp but make certain these vertical fasteners are encapsulated (well sealed) and or lay up a toe rail over them.

[JPA Cate]

WLUCKY,

If you are curious about the work "minaret" does, here's a couple of CF threads to look for: "Nauticat 52' Refit", and "Waukiez Keel & Hull Repair".

I would trust "minaret".

Ann

[minaret]

Originally Posted by seasick

Consider removing the entire shear clamp and all related fastenings and lay up a new one with as long of battens as can be fitted, glued and screwed in place, notching for the deck framing as you go. In some instances, it may be desirable to cut out temporary “ports” in the stern section to allow the longest possible battens to be inserted down the interior shear length, passing through the bulkheads and cabinetry. These will be flexed against the cleaned hull just below, the deck frames. Mark the location and depth of the deck frame notches and cut these notches into you batten. Once all is laid up and cured, drill down through the old fastening hole in the outer deck frame through the new shear clamp but make certain these vertical fasteners are encapsulated (well sealed) and or lay up a toe rail over them.

That right there is how it's done! Except you know some deck beams gotta go too, and probably some deck.

[JPA Cate]

Gosh! This is starting to sound like a very scary, labor intensive job!

Ann

[seasick]

In all fiberglass boats, especially early boats that did’nt utilize a deck/cabin top mold, the most important and often problematic element is the hull deck joint. The shear clamp was often the first bit of wood to go on after the hull was popped out of the mold. The shear clamp was often through- bolted to a teak rubrail and the deck frames, cabin frame, etc. being in turn built up from this foundation. It is exceedingly important to get this repair right.

You might get away with shorter length battens if your rotten portion is confined to midships as they most frequently are, by getting back to good wood and scarfing In thinner battens. The concern is in deforming the hull, though your hull is likely 3/8ths inch thick at the shear.

My extended family ran a wooden boat shop for many decades there in San Diego. It is a good place to accomplish what you have undertaken. I’m sorry that your new adventure has started on this note. We’re it many other jobs, I’d recommend sailing south until you found the right guy in the right place to do it for you. In the land of teak or similar woods. I would not likely attempt an offshore sail as is or you might end up in an open boat.

[minaret]

Originally Posted by seasick

In all fiberglass boats, especially early boats that did’nt utilize a deck/cabin top mold, the most important and often problematic element is the hull deck joint. The shear clamp was often the first bit of wood to go on after the hull was popped out of the mold. The shear clamp was often through- bolted to a teak rubrail and the deck frames, cabin frame, etc. being in turn built up from this foundation. It is exceedingly important to get this repair right.

You might get away with shorter length battens if your rotten portion is confined to midships as they most frequently are, by getting back to good wood and scarfing In thinner battens. The concern is in deforming the hull, though your hull is likely 3/8ths inch thick at the shear.

My extended family ran a wooden boat shop for many decades there in San Diego. It is a good place to accomplish what you have undertaken. I’m sorry that your new adventure has started on this note. We’re it many other jobs, I’d recommend sailing south until you found the right guy in the right place to do it for you. In the land of teak or similar woods. I would not likely attempt an offshore sail as is or you might end up in an open boat.

Couldn't agree more (except that shears are scissors, a sheer line is part of a boat)!