Rigging Replacement

[P27]

My rigging is approaching twenty five years old it is the original stainless wire when boat was New. I was considering replacing the rigging.The boat is primarily afreshwater sailor. I would like to know if it would be a ok to replace the rigging in steps roller furling forestay backstage then shrouds if so what would be the best General sequence to follow assuming no surprises are found

[neilpride]

The sequence dont really matter, is more important to rig lines if the mast stay without wires support for long, forestay furler is the most tricky one and the rest are easy, leave the lowers for the end, i mean keep the lowers tight until you finish with the cap shrouds, if you do it in the wáter, consider a calm dock or easy spot in the marina , no wakes from other boats... and honestly, 25 years make a toll in mast tangs , plates and other mast hardware, cracks or rust ,, so i always say its easy to unstep the mast and do it in the ground but is up to your Budget ....good luck..

[P27]

Neilpride thanks the boat is in winter storage mast is down I was considering this after the holidays. The original owner left a spec sheet of the standing rigging from when it was New wire size.fitting overall length of wire.He also left spec sheet for running rigging most of that was replaced when I purchased the boat three years ago the spec sheet should help slot with budgeting the replacement I worked in a metallurgical lab years ago so have some knowledge about corrosion and agree cracks just no way to analyze now except visual.

[neilpride]

Cool then, just a couple of points, if you have data from Previous Owner, dont take it for granted, measure wires from end to end or pin to togle pin , depend of the bottom termination, eye, togle ,etc.. Forestay stay sometimes dont have room for mistakes if is not fited with a turnbuckle, take the measures in a calm day, no wind, and with the tape tight...Ciao...

[GordMay]

Originally Posted by P27

... I worked in a metallurgical lab years ago so have some knowledge about corrosion and agree cracks just no way to analyze now except visual.

Dye Penetrant Inspection (DPI), also called Liquid Penetrant Inspection (LPI) or Liquid Penetrant Testing (PT), is a low-cost inspection method used to locate surface-breaking defects. For applications where a greater sensitivity to smaller defects is required, the fluorescent penetrant method is preferred.

[Cuttyhunk]

Do you have a Pearson 27? In 2009, on my P27, I replaced the roller furler with a new Harken and had the forestay replaced at that time. The rigger found nothing wrong with it, just did it as it was an inexpensive add-on to the job. I don't have that boat anymore, but the old forestay is hanging in my garage, coiled up. Mine was always a saltwater boat, hauled seasonally here in New England. The rest of the rig is still original, although if I had kept the boat much longer, I would be thinking about replacing the rest soon.


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[HappyMdRSailor]

Originally Posted by neilpride

Cool then, just a couple of points, if you have data from Previous Owner, dont take it for granted, measure wires from end to end or pin to togle pin , depend of the bottom termination, eye, togle ,etc.. Forestay stay sometimes dont have room for mistakes if is not fited with a turnbuckle, take the measures in a calm day, no wind, and with the tape tight...Ciao...

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