Replacing the Nonskid on a F-44

[Matt Johnson]

Originally Posted by minaret

Get a mud hog and enough air to push it (about 9 CFM minimum) and your arms and back will scream much less.

Ouch...That's a big compressor. Any AC tools/sanders large enough for a big job like this? What about a power fairing board vs an 8" air hog....what's better?

Thanks,

Matt

[minaret]

Originally Posted by trashpad

Hello,

I have had success with the epoxy\407 mix when I was using thicker layers but it looks like the thinner coat just does not set as fast. I thought I would use the 407 on the thicker fairing below the cloth and then a thin coat of a premix on top of the cloth for the final smooth coat.


Kurt

Which resin system and hardener are you using?

[minaret]

Originally Posted by funjohnson

Ouch...That's a big compressor. Any AC tools/sanders large enough for a big job like this? What about a power fairing board vs an 8" air hog....what's better?

Thanks,

Matt

The only AC power in line sander I am aware of is made by Festool. It is both ridiculously expensive and under powered. You could buy a cheap in line and the compressor to power it, and probably have enough left over for grit too, for the same $ as the Festool, if you include all of the proprietary gizmos and grit for it. The Festool has only a 5/32 stroke.

Mud hog and air file can't really be compared, they do different things. The air file has more different uses. Mud hog is only good for large relatively flat areas, like decks. But it's also great for taking down highs after marking them out with a big long board by hand. So is the file. Air file also rules for brightwork, in line only is the way to go. I keep a short bed air file too, priceless tool. Especially with custom bases.



http://www.amazon.com/Ingersoll-315G...in+line+sander



http://www.amazon.com/Festool-567852...in+line+sander

[trashpad]

I was able to get the deck sanded and applied the first coat of primer. Getting a bit smoother coat but still a long way off from smooth. More sanding until I work the process out better. I also used a MicroCloth roller this time which helped. It is so thick that even thinning it down it still leaves small ripples. I will next sand the joint where the cabin meets the deck to see how smooth I can get it. This will be the smooth waterway so I need it to fair and crisp so the LPU will look good. The rest of the deck will get Kiwi so I don't have to be as picky.

Kurt

[trashpad]

So is the Ingersoll-315G-Series a MudHog or the AirFile? I have a large compressor but it is about 400 feet away in the shed. I will work up the numbers to see if I can run a hose that far and keep enough CFM to run the tool. It would save so much time and fair better I think it would be worth it as I start on the forward main deck. It is so big and flat.

Kurt

[Roy M]

How about renting a portable compressor for this one task? The time you save may be worth the cost.

[trashpad]

Hello,

I could move my compressor down to the pier shed and run power to it. It still would be about 150 foot run. If I had to rent one it would be a gas powered one I could run on the pier and move it in at night.


Kurt

[trashpad]

Originally Posted by trashpad

So is the Ingersoll-315G-Series a MudHog or the AirFile? I have a large compressor but it is about 400 feet away in the shed. I will work up the numbers to see if I can run a hose that far and keep enough CFM to run the tool. It would save so much time and fair better I think it would be worth it as I start on the forward main deck. It is so big and flat.

Kurt

I found it, the Mud Hog is a 8" slow turning sander and the AirFile is an air powered Long Board.


Kurt.

[minaret]

Originally Posted by trashpad

I found it, the Mud Hog is a 8" slow turning sander and the AirFile is an air powered Long Board.


Kurt.

Exactly. The mud hog is also a hard pad, not a soft pad. Therefore it is extremely good for fairing relatively flat surfaces like decks. It was designed for drywall guys to fair tape seams with. These are fairing tools, if you are in primer already you don't need them.

[trashpad]

Hello All,

This thing ate another post.

Oh well, I was able to get the port lower deck primed. Getting the stanchions mounted correctly took longer that expected but they won't leak and go anywhere now. I started on the port upper deck getting it stripped, faired, clothed, and then a thin coat. It is ready for the two coats of primmer. I will wait until I have a big part of the forward deck ready to prime and do a big chunk at once. I have found the farther forward I go the thinner the non-skid and fairing get.


Kurt

[BriRich]

[QUOTE=trashpad;1597389]I really like the Kiwi grip paint that I have seen on other boats. Might go with that. I picked up the special reducer today and if the rain holds off will try thinning the mix and see how it goes. Thanks for your help.

X2 on the kiwigrip. We redid the entire deck of our 43ft Cape North. Applied the kiwigrip right over the old integral non-skid. Looks beautiful after a year and a half.

[BriRich]

We had to recore parts of the deck and only repainted the waterways over the new fiberglass and then taped off and applied the kiwigrip

[trashpad]

There are a few sections where the nonskid must have been installed better than the rest and it has not cracked or separated. Mainly on the sugar steps. I had thought of just painting them with Kiwi and see how it looks. It all depends on how long the rest of the deck takes.


Kurt

[trashpad]

Just a few small spots that I filled in today and I should be able to paint the primer tomorrow on the forward half of the bow and top upper port decks. We were able to get a bunch of the stb forward deck started too. Moving right along.

Sent from my SM-N900V using Cruisers Sailing Forum mobile app

[trashpad]

I was able to get the port forward deck primed during lunch. Second Coat tomorrow and then back to grinding and chipping.

Kurt