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Stu Jackson · 08-09-2015, 09:41

I personally love our dark interior. Isn't gloomy to me at all, I love the teak, "boaty" to me.

But if, you're going to paint, then you most likely already know how important prep work is.

That said, green is something YOU either like or hate, 'cuz that color is a real issue for some people. Think VA green!

The Pardeys mentioned this some time ago: If you go with white, add a little blue tint, makes it easier on the eyes, cools it off, and may be as good as the yuck!

green for motion issues.

The Catalina 42's idea was great, just what I was thinking. Kinda like the guy with the trailer-able boat who has water in his bilge: put the boat on the trailer and put water inside the boat and see where it comes out!

Good luck whatever you decide.

roland stockham · 08-09-2015, 10:00

I used Ash, looks great and does not darken (unless soaked!) Light strong and easily worked. Toned it with a straw colour for seat covers. It is nice to have some contrast and the original mahogany cabin trunk sides give that.

**George DuBose** · 08-09-2015, 10:56

When the "Admiral" declared that Skylark's cabin was too dark, I did some research and was surprised to learn that light green is a color that is the least inducible to causing seasickness.l

Skylark needed a new hull liner when she came to me and when that project rose high enough on the "to-do" list, I decided to reline the interior of the cabins with Miranti wood and then painted it ivory.

The overall look is quite nautical and the ivory color makes the cabin even more cosy.

I followed Dan Spurr's guide to installing strips of wood to reline a hull and used bronze screws and finish washers. The whole project upgraded the look of the interior. I even painted the "Pearson teak" formica ivory and it all came out to match the fiberglass of the overhead and sole.

Steadman Uhlich · 08-09-2015, 11:07

George,

That looks nice.
Any "before" photos?

Also, can you give a short description of the method of attaching the wood battens (strips) to the hull? I don't have the book you mentioned earlier. A short description would be OK.

LekiM · 09-09-2015, 08:14

Quote:

Originally Posted by George DuBose

When the "Admiral" declared that Skylark's cabin was too dark, I did some research and was surprised to learn that light green is a color that is the least inducible to causing seasickness.l

Skylark needed a new hull liner when she came to me and when that project rose high enough on the "to-do" list, I decided to reline the interior of the cabins with Miranti wood and then painted it ivory.

The overall look is quite nautical and the ivory color makes the cabin even more cosy.

I followed Dan Spurr's guide to installing strips of wood to reline a hull and used bronze screws and finish washers. The whole project upgraded the look of the interior. I even painted the "Pearson teak" formica ivory and it all came out to match the fiberglass of the overhead and sole.

Hey, this looks good!
More photos?

**George DuBose** · 09-09-2015, 08:58

After several requests to see the rest of Skylark's interior, I reluctantly submit these images. Pardon the ugly beach towels that cover the main cabin settees, but I have two young boys, need I say more?

Skylark is nearing the end of a slow progressing refit. I wrote a book about buying her on eBay sight-unseen. I knew I wanted a vintage Pearson 36, because they are strong and fast. I knew that I could repair all the defects and damage caused by the lack of maintenance by the PO.

When I scraped off the warped teak veneer from the inside of the hull, I followed Dan Spurr's guide on mounting strips of wood to the inside of a hull.

First I scraped away all the veneer, cleaned off the rubber cement that was used by Pearson to fix the veneer, then I fiberglassed in vertical strips of half round birch. I scored the half round wood on the flat side to allow it to bend more easily to the curve of the hull. Strips of fiberglass over each vertical half round.

Then I had Miranti cut into 2 x 3/8 x 7 foot strips, two of the edges of the exterior side were canted. I used stainless steel 3/4" screws with finish washers to fix the Miranti to the vertical birch half round. Before mounting all the horizontal strips, I put some 1/2 foam used for insulating house foundations just to keep the boat a bit cooler or warmer. This foam isn't attacked by mildew and helps against condensation.

A year later, I was sitting alone in the cabin and came to the realization that all the "other" screws Pearson used in finishing the cabin were bronze. Bronze screws and finish washers would look nicer against the ivory of the Miranti, so my son and I change all 500 of the stainless steel screws and washers to bronze.

I have published a 136 page book on my Skylark renovations. Title is full of search words. "Renovate a Sailboat and Cross the Atlantic", this book is mainly for Europeans who consider buying a used sailboat in the US and then importing said boat in to the EU.

This is my last boat. I will accept no substitutes.

I will take this opportunity to say that Skylark is located in a Five Gold Anchor Marina, 45 minutes from Amsterdam. I am interested in boat swapping for with sailors of comparable boats located in New England.

My boys have six week school holidays every summer and sometimes we go back to the States for the holiday. One could take Skylark to Scotland, Ireland, Brittany or the Baltic.

I have written a manual for Skylark that gives details on operating all the systems on board. It is not a "how-to-sail" book, rather where is the switch for the water heater, how one turns on the SuperWind 350, where the circuit breaker for the anchor windlass is and so on...

I will even throw in a car that one could take from the marina and tour...well as far as you want to drive in six weeks, but the point would be to take Skylark for a tour and not have to pay for a charter.

The manual can be emailed to private email addresses.

Come on over, the water's fine...