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Old 07-08-2019, 17:53   #16
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Re: Replacing sound depressing in engine compartment

We used the stuff from sailor solutions for our generator. I don't want to even think about it, but we really need to do the whole engine room. Anyway, wasn't impressed with the sticky backing.
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Old 07-08-2019, 19:05   #17
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Re: Replacing sound depressing in engine compartment

Quote:
Originally Posted by DeepFrz View Post
Rock Wool is a pretty poor sound insulation compared to the purpose made closed cell and lead/heavy plastic insulation.


Thanks it was just a thought i am just looking at as many options that I can think of and then weigh the pros and cons is the lead laden plastic foam still available in the US most of what I am finding is lead free
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Old 07-08-2019, 23:35   #18
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Re: Replacing sound depressing in engine compartment

Stick with the lead free. Why would you want the lead sheet there if the heavy rubber works as well or better? I've been very happy with the lead-free rubber.

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Old 08-08-2019, 00:10   #19
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Re: Replacing sound depressing in engine compartment

I too went with sailors solution tiles. Had no adhesion issues, BUT only did walls, no overhead surfaces (the engine was under the cockpit sole with minimal clearance.

Matt
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Old 08-08-2019, 19:37   #20
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Re: Replacing sound depressing in engine compartment

Thanks for all the help and suggestions I am going with a lead free foam rubber one inch thick I will next look for best price and who I have gift certificates to and pick a supplier thanks again Mark
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Old 17-09-2019, 11:17   #21
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Re: Replacing sound depressing in engine compartment

Mechanical fasteners (in addition to adhesive) are always recommended for installing insulation with a barrier layer. As the boat moves, rocks, or pounds though waves the weight of the insulation is pulling on the foam and over time will stretch it until there is a failure.

If you are installing the insulation on material that will accept a screw, then screws and fender washers are the cheapest and easiest option. Make sure to run the drill in reverse when you are penetrating the foam so material does not wrap in the threads and tear out. Turn the drill into forward when you hit the substrate and tighten so the washer just dimples the face.

If you can not use screw fasteners then pins and washers are your best bet. The pins should have a perforated base, which allows the adhesive to flow through and create a mechanical bond in addition to the chemical bond. Adhesives should be high viscosity, structural adhesives such as 5200, methacrylate, or epoxy thickened into a paste.

Another important factor for long lasting installation is sealing the edges with seam tape. The vapor barrier facing found on our materials (and most others) protects the foams from moisture, fumes, fuel, and oil. Wrapping the exposed edges from front to back before installation extends this protection and provides an greatly improved seal.

Butt seams should also be taped.

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