Replacing Engine Gear Control Parts On A Bavaria 38

[Kerry1]

Since damaging my engine gear controls on our Bavaria 38 as described in "Pitfalls of Plastic- or Not" we have now imported the parts and effected a repair.

The steering pedestal with the single lever gear/throttle control on the B38 is a Whitlock design, now owned by Lewmar, the gear control I have seen described as an Edson design. Unfortunately the Lewmar website is scant on details but I found a source for the repair kit at Yacht Parts UK where Andy Salomonson was prompt and helpful. The kit contains a pair of everything you need to replace both the throttle cable and gear cable retention system at the gear lever end of the cables.

I learned the hard way how the repair should be attempted. Access to the engine control mechanism is through an inspection port on the starboard side of the pedestal. But it will also be necessary to remove the screws holding the fascia with chartplotter and instruments at the top of the pedestal. There should be sufficient cable to move these aside to access the morse control mechanism from the top.

At this point, go below and remove both the throttle cable and gear cable connecting points at the saddles (two bolts clamping outer cables) and at cable ends. On the saildrive the gear cable terminates with a cotter pin at the gear lever. At the throttle cable end, remove the bolt retaining the spring loaded cable end from the throttle lever. These are accessed from the starboard cabin engine compartment hatch, and by removing the mattress and plywood hatch directly aft of the engine compartment.

While your below open the hatch accessing the steering quadrant at the rear of the cabin and remove the bottom cover directly below the steering pedestal in the same cabin. When (not if) you drop any bits you will get them by access to this area. From the steering quadrant area, identify the two cables, (the gear cable had a red outer sleeve and the throttle control a brown one). Work some slack into the cables so that when unbolted, you can pull the engine control mechanism clear up through the top of the pedestal to facilitate any work on it.

Back in the cockpit, remove the rubber button in the base of the gear lever, carefully with a fine flat screwdriver. Take care not to lose the mushroom that sits under this button which gives you throttle control without engaging the gearbox. Naturally, all the parts go into a container in a safe place. Now you have access to the hollow bolt that retains the gear lever. Remove this and work the lever to remove it from the spline.

Now, using a Phillips screwdriver and correct socket for the locknuts on the inside of the pedestal, remove the four bolts holding the gear lever mechanism and pull it up with the slack you have got in the cables, clear of the pedestal where the instrument fascia was.

Now you can work easily with, and with clear view all of the components.

Remove cotter pins at cable ends, and take off the outer cable stainless steel retaining covers by inserting a fine flat screwdriver in little slots adjacent to the tabs which hold those covers on. Now the whole mechanism should be clear. (The gear mechanism also houses a neutral gear switch that may have electric cables attached, pull the clips off the switch and then it will be fully detached).

Take care, or take photos of attachment points of cables as there are options.

Remove the single Phillips screw that retains the plastic cable trough to the gear control arm, taking care not to lose the nut on the backside and replace with new part. When replacing the screw use a drop of medium loctite on the thread to ensure it stays put.

Remove engine gear control mechanism plastic cover by levering plastic tabs around the perimeter and apply marine grease to gears.

After testing smooth operation of mechanism and cables, replace everything in reverse order. For anyone that has already done this job, please feel free to add, amend or otherwise comment on the post, I may have missed some important points.

[coopec43]

There's actually an easier way to do it (takes about five minutes)

Clive

[Kerry1]

Originally Posted by coopec43

There's actually an easier way to do it (takes about five minutes)

Clive

I'm all ears Clive, or should I say eyes? Let's hear it....

[Tahoe Cruiser]

Originally Posted by Kerry1

I'm all ears Clive, or should I say eyes? Let's hear it....

I would also like to hear the fast way.

I have a similar set up and the engine throttle bottoms out at 1800 RPMs. New boat to me so I am not sure how you adjust the throw of the cable. I do not see any adjustment at the engine throttle lever side. Is the adjustment on the pedestal side?

[Kerry1]

Originally Posted by Tahoe Cruiser

I would also like to hear the fast way.

I have a similar set up and the engine throttle bottoms out at 1800 RPMs. New boat to me so I am not sure how you adjust the throw of the cable. I do not see any adjustment at the engine throttle lever side. Is the adjustment on the pedestal side?

As can be seen in the 2nd photo, there are two holes on either arm, one of which the cable must be terminated. I simply put mine back where it came from, since adjustment wasn't the issue. That's the only place for adjustment I could see on that end. On the engine side however the inner core of the cable is fixed by a grub screw (from memory) on the injector pump throttle lever which can be adjusted.

[Tahoe Cruiser]

Originally Posted by Kerry1

As can be seen in the 2nd photo, there are two holes on either arm, one of which the cable must be terminated. I simply put mine back where it came from, since adjustment wasn't the issue. That's the only place for adjustment I could see on that end. On the engine side however the inner core of the cable is fixed by a grub screw (from memory) on the injector pump throttle lever which can be adjusted.

Thanks. I will look for the adjustment next time I am at the boat. It's a 3.5 hour drive to the boat. The idle was to low and the wide open throttle on the lever was only 1800 RPMs. I think someone didn't adjust the throw of the cables when it was installed. I find it amazing that people just live with a poorly running engine due to throttle controls instead of figuring it out and just fixing it.

[Kerry1]

Just a thought. My engine idle screw was also set so low that the engine ran really rough and sounded awful, and inevitably I bumped the throttle up to get the engine running smooth. Eventually I reset the throttle idle screw on the engine end of the throttle cable. It sounds much better but now I have another issue. The saildrive has no clutch, it simply throws cog against cog when engaging gear. Now that I've set throttle speed to faster idle, it is harder to get in gear and I suspect that's why throttle idle is set so low in first place, to make gear engagement easy. When starting a cold engine it wouldn't run on the bare idle setting it was set so low. So this necessitated starting cold with a little throttle on - out of gear of course. I think I will reset throttle back to rough idle because the noticeable difference in effort to get into gear worries me knowing it's only a little piece of plastic between being able to change gear and not having that ability, (when it breaks).

[bil56]

correct idle speed is 850 rpm (warm), too much is very bad for gear engagement