|
|
05-04-2018, 10:47
|
#16
|
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Portland, ME
Boat: Cal 2-30
Posts: 37
|
Re: Repainting Interior of Cal 2-30
Quote:
Originally Posted by redhead
Investigate Killz Oil Based Primer. I can't speak about fiberglass (I was working with wood) but nothing seeps through it. I had 35 years of mildew, smoke, various finishes, you name it. After cleaning and lightly sanding I put on 2 coats (overkill, didn't need 2 in retrospect). It evened out imperfections, encapsulated all the nasty's and gave me a great base for the finish coat.
|
Redhead, sounds like you didn't sand right down to the fiberglass?
__________________
Sean
|
|
|
05-04-2018, 10:49
|
#17
|
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Portland, ME
Boat: Cal 2-30
Posts: 37
|
Re: Repainting Interior of Cal 2-30
Quote:
Originally Posted by lolly08
Here's another angle you might find a lot easier. Use a pressure washer with TSP. Works wonders and will clean you bilge at the same time. Get epoxy garage floor paint at Home Depot. They can tint the stuff to any color you want. Roll and tip. The painted surfaces will outlive your boat. I've painted a bunch of boats this way and never had a failure. You'll have the interior ready for paint in a couple of hours. Paint time is up to you. Good luck!
|
Thanks Lolly, great idea with the pressure washer. I suppose I would just have to be super careful about protecting the rest of the boat? Did you take any special precautions? Seems like a tight space to be blasting away at stuff
__________________
Sean
|
|
|
05-04-2018, 10:56
|
#18
|
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Portland, ME
Boat: Cal 2-30
Posts: 37
|
Re: Repainting Interior of Cal 2-30
Quote:
Originally Posted by ZULU40
Id use the 3M, not tried it myself but Id be keen to give it a go. I have used other blue 3M disks (dont know what theyre called) and they were pretty good
Careful tho, if you eat into the laminate (which is possibly cored) you best repair that by reglassing with resin. Then you have to know if the part you are cleaning off is made with polyester resin, because epoxy wont stick to it.
Acetone on its own is probably cheaper and the tried and true way. Remember you are in a confined space, Id be concerned about fumes and being overcome by them. That would mean using a respirator system
I only did bits of the bilge, but I used Hempels 2 part epoxy bilge paint. 2 coats and its done, even over the roughest surfaces. Do not use gloss paint whatever you do, semi gloss would be fine
Roller is fine, be careful to not do too much at a time. It can get away from you and you can miss unsightly paint runs, especially since you are painting verticals and overhead. No way would I use house paint. I think if you skimp this now you will regret it forever.
done
|
Thanks so much, Zulu; that's a lot of great info. How do I know if I'm starting to eat into the laminate? Or.. how do I avoid it? Aside from adding an extra step the deck is cored so I really don't want to mess that up...
I have a respirator, but I'm thinking of picking up one of the ones with a full face mask.
Why so vehemently against house paint? Seems like many others have used it and had it work fine? I'm trying to limit my spending, but if there are serious problems with good exterior house paint I'll definitely stay away.
Did you use the 3M product to sand the bilge too? Also, speaking of the bilge, do I need to seal it off from the sanding and general mayhem occurring in the cabin or can I just limit the amount of crap that lands down there and trust the pump to flush everything out?
Thanks again, super helpful!
__________________
Sean
|
|
|
05-04-2018, 10:58
|
#19
|
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Portland, ME
Boat: Cal 2-30
Posts: 37
|
Re: Repainting Interior of Cal 2-30
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chuck Hawley
Slightly off-topic, but my family owned Genie, Cal 2-30 #90, for about ten years when I was in college in the early 80s. I loved that boat, and I think it's terrific that that class is still bringing its owners enjoyment. We did have some issues with the steel fuel tank, and we occasionally flooded the engine when the water backed up in the exhaust system, but generally it was a wonderful, safe, and remarkably fast boat.
Congratulations!
Chuck Hawley
|
Thanks Chuck! Glad to hear from another familiar with the model. Do you still have any pictures of her?
__________________
Sean
|
|
|
05-04-2018, 11:21
|
#20
|
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: Uk Rye
Boat: Moody 44’ ketch
Posts: 86
|
Re: Repainting Interior of Cal 2-30
Hi
Please don’t sand before cleaning thoroughly it will drive grease oil and dirt into tiny grooves which will then resist the acetone cleaner. Clean first then sand. Don’t ask me how i know [emoji846]
|
|
|
05-04-2018, 11:51
|
#21
|
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Key Largo, FL
Posts: 17
|
Re: Repainting Interior of Cal 2-30
Thanks for your comments. On the SW paint is it flow on pretty good not leaving ant streaks or brush marks ?
|
|
|
05-04-2018, 12:22
|
#22
|
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2014
Posts: 600
|
Re: Repainting Interior of Cal 2-30
Quote:
Originally Posted by SeanMaine
Thanks so much, Zulu; that's a lot of great info. How do I know if I'm starting to eat into the laminate? Or.. how do I avoid it? Aside from adding an extra step the deck is cored so I really don't want to mess that up...
|
you will begin to see the weave of glass mat, or frayed edges of CSM. If you go thru that too you will hit the core material. The risk is, moisture is absorbed into the core (as strangely many are moisture absorbent) and it will travel to surrounding core. This will weaken the core and hence the whole undermine the laminate. If you use a disk sander/grinder you must hold it flat and not be tempted to use the edge which seems faster but will cut the laminate. I guess thats where an orbital and specialist tools like you suggested is better
Quote:
Originally Posted by SeanMaine
I have a respirator, but I'm thinking of picking up one of the ones with a full face mask.
|
I live in envy for one of those. Early in the process try to have someone observing outside, just in case. And shut down all the electrics
Quote:
Originally Posted by SeanMaine
Why so vehemently against house paint? Seems like many others have used it and had it work fine? I'm trying to limit my spending, but if there are serious problems with good exterior house paint I'll definitely stay away.
|
There are so many paint preparations that it really is bewildering. I dont understand the chemistry and mostly the origins (despite what it may say on the can) are unknown. I believe that with paint, you get what you pay for. Thats my only defence against hyped up junk paints
Quote:
Originally Posted by SeanMaine
Did you use the 3M product to sand the bilge too? Also, speaking of the bilge, do I need to seal it off from the sanding and general mayhem occurring in the cabin or can I just limit the amount of crap that lands down there and trust the pump to flush everything out?
|
Yes because the bilge is pretty rough and coarse, and I had resin work to do in there anyway. Some of the tabbing was in poor condition and needed either refixing or replacing.
I did that work then vacuumed and vacuumed again. The risk to the pump is that all the crap in the bottom of the boat like washers, screws, metal offcut, even plastic zip ties used to hold wiring up, will eat away the impeller of the bilge pump.
Minimise the risks. Fuel and oil can be floated off of water, sludge can be scooped out, that isnt fun. The rest is fine thru the pump. A high pressure cleaner might be good if you have access to one, but then you are better with a wetvac.
In my bilge I found a working flashlight, the notch keys for fuel and water tank openings, about $4 in change, a 1954 halfpenny, and heaps of miscellaneous plastic ties. This was under 12 gallons of diesel that had been let go from the rusted tank.
Quote:
Originally Posted by SeanMaine
Thanks again, super helpful!
|
no probs
__________________
'give what you get, then get gone'
|
|
|
05-04-2018, 13:41
|
#23
|
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Portland, ME
Boat: Cal 2-30
Posts: 37
|
Re: Repainting Interior of Cal 2-30
Quote:
Originally Posted by ZULU40
you will begin to see the weave of glass mat, or frayed edges of CSM. If you go thru that too you will hit the core material. The risk is, moisture is absorbed into the core (as strangely many are moisture absorbent) and it will travel to surrounding core. This will weaken the core and hence the whole undermine the laminate. If you use a disk sander/grinder you must hold it flat and not be tempted to use the edge which seems faster but will cut the laminate. I guess thats where an orbital and specialist tools like you suggested is better
|
This is my biggest fear. There's a hardware store nearby so I'll start with teh sanders and go from there. What grit would you suggest?
Quote:
Originally Posted by ZULU40
I live in envy for one of those. Early in the process try to have someone observing outside, just in case. And shut down all the electrics
|
Worth disconnecting the battery?
Quote:
Originally Posted by ZULU40
There are so many paint preparations that it really is bewildering. I dont understand the chemistry and mostly the origins (despite what it may say on the can) are unknown. I believe that with paint, you get what you pay for. Thats my only defence against hyped up junk paints
|
Point taken.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ZULU40
Yes because the bilge is pretty rough and coarse, and I had resin work to do in there anyway. Some of the tabbing was in poor condition and needed either refixing or replacing.
I did that work then vacuumed and vacuumed again. The risk to the pump is that all the crap in the bottom of the boat like washers, screws, metal offcut, even plastic zip ties used to hold wiring up, will eat away the impeller of the bilge pump.
Minimise the risks. Fuel and oil can be floated off of water, sludge can be scooped out, that isnt fun. The rest is fine thru the pump. A high pressure cleaner might be good if you have access to one, but then you are better with a wetvac.
In my bilge I found a working flashlight, the notch keys for fuel and water tank openings, about $4 in change, a 1954 halfpenny, and heaps of miscellaneous plastic ties. This was under 12 gallons of diesel that had been let go from the rusted tank.
|
Nice haul! Great advice. I didn't inspect the bilge too thoroughly last time I was down there (the boat is in Boston and I'm in Portland, ME). I did test the bilge pump and it works great. What would indicate that the bilge needs to be cleaned and painted as well?
__________________
Sean
|
|
|
05-04-2018, 14:15
|
#24
|
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2014
Posts: 600
|
Re: Repainting Interior of Cal 2-30
Quote:
Originally Posted by SeanMaine
This is my biggest fear. There's a hardware store nearby so I'll start with teh sanders and go from there. What grit would you suggest?
|
60 on the more industrial surfaces. Out to 120-180 on finer cabin work. As it gets clogged it becomes another grit BTW DeWalt make an effective cost efficient orbital, see if u agree
Quote:
Originally Posted by SeanMaine
|
yes it is, your VHF and Bilge pump are likely directly connected. Possibly later owner add-ons too coz owners is lazy.
Quote:
Originally Posted by SeanMaine
Nice haul! Great advice. I didn't inspect the bilge too thoroughly last time I was down there (the boat is in Boston and I'm in Portland, ME). I did test the bilge pump and it works great. What would indicate that the bilge needs to be cleaned and painted as well?
|
The problem with the bilges and other locations such as sail lockers, beneath engine and tanks in the recesses of the boat, its dark and mostly stuff is coloured by whatever fuel and oil has been drifting around in there over a few decades.
Still you need to know what is going on in there, a simple loose plastic bag can block your bilge pump and disable it. Eventually it gets you more familiar with your boat no matter what. Vacuum it out, dry it out if needs be, and figure out where to go from there.
Im sensing that this is probably the only time you will have an opportunity to paint these dark recesses, so think carefully but its your call. The primary concern is the cleanliness, paint is icing.
__________________
'give what you get, then get gone'
|
|
|
05-04-2018, 16:08
|
#25
|
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Cape Haze,FL
Boat: Carver,Cobia,Nacra, Columbia
Posts: 815
|
Re: Repainting Interior of Cal 2-30
Quote:
Originally Posted by alaskaflyfish
I would caution you against using aircraft stripper. The active ingredient is methylene chloride and is very toxic to human biology. Creates noxious vapors and horrible chemical burns. Best to just stick to sanding with a vac hose attached. The smell of stripper really never goes away. It also could damage fiberglass and plastics. I used to strip and paint airplanes. Terrible stuff.
|
This is one of the most important replies in this Thread. All should heed!
|
|
|
05-04-2018, 16:34
|
#26
|
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Long Island, New York
Boat: Beneteau 423 43 feet
Posts: 850
|
Re: Repainting Interior of Cal 2-30
I learned to sail on a 1969 Cal 2-30. Fast boat indeed! Said design was very similar to the 40 which was a legend. Bill Lapworth was one heck of a designer!
For what ever reason I can’t see the pictures and can’t remember the interior finish other than I use to sleep in the port quarter berth... in reality an 1/8th berth! One thing I will caution be careful of lamenants and belt sanders..... will make a mess of things real quick.
Good luck and look forward to the pictures
|
|
|
05-04-2018, 17:32
|
#27
|
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Portland, ME
Boat: Cal 2-30
Posts: 37
|
Re: Repainting Interior of Cal 2-30
Quote:
Originally Posted by ZULU40
The problem with the bilges and other locations such as sail lockers, beneath engine and tanks in the recesses of the boat, its dark and mostly stuff is coloured by whatever fuel and oil has been drifting around in there over a few decades.
Still you need to know what is going on in there, a simple loose plastic bag can block your bilge pump and disable it. Eventually it gets you more familiar with your boat no matter what. Vacuum it out, dry it out if needs be, and figure out where to go from there.
Im sensing that this is probably the only time you will have an opportunity to paint these dark recesses, so think carefully but its your call. The primary concern is the cleanliness, paint is icing.
|
Yeah... Yeah. You're right, I probably should. Next spring I want to tackle the hairline cracks in the deck gelcoat so I won't be considering the interior crevices for a while.
__________________
Sean
|
|
|
05-04-2018, 17:38
|
#28
|
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Portland, ME
Boat: Cal 2-30
Posts: 37
|
Re: Repainting Interior of Cal 2-30
Quote:
Originally Posted by NYSail
I learned to sail on a 1969 Cal 2-30. Fast boat indeed! Said design was very similar to the 40 which was a legend. Bill Lapworth was one heck of a designer!
For what ever reason I can’t see the pictures and can’t remember the interior finish other than I use to sleep in the port quarter berth... in reality an 1/8th berth! One thing I will caution be careful of lamenants and belt sanders..... will make a mess of things real quick.
Good luck and look forward to the pictures
|
I wonder if other people can see the pictures? The link is working fine for me but you're the 2nd person to say it didn't work. Glad to hear you enjoyed the model! I haven't sailed on it yet but I'm very excited. If you want to see pictures, message me and I'll send you a link to the google drive album I have with all of them.
I'm terrified of sanding into the laminate. Any tips for avoiding it?
__________________
Sean
|
|
|
05-04-2018, 21:02
|
#29
|
Marine Service Provider
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Victoria B.C.
Boat: Wauquiez Centurion 32
Posts: 2,874
|
Re: Repainting Interior of Cal 2-30
Quote:
Originally Posted by ZULU40
Careful tho, if you eat into the laminate (which is possibly cored) you best repair that by reglassing with resin. Then you have to know if the part you are cleaning off is made with polyester resin, because epoxy wont stick to it.
|
If you are saying that epoxy will not stick to polyester you are totally incorrect. Epoxy is the best repair resin for any fiberglass job. As well barrier coats to polyester hulls are epoxy based. Epoxy sticks very well to older polyester - better than polyester over old polyester.
|
|
|
06-04-2018, 02:00
|
#30
|
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: On the Boat
Boat: Fortuna, Island Spirit 400, 40ft. Catamaran - S/V One White Tree
Posts: 179
|
Re: Repainting Interior of Cal 2-30
I can recommend Rustoleum's Zinsser Perma White paint.
We have used it on two of our cabins and have had zero mold/mildew where we used to have to scrub weekly.
https://www.rustoleum.com/product-ca...interior-paint
__________________
"And all I ask is a merry yarn from a laughing fellow-rover
And quiet sleep and a sweet dream when the long trick's over."
John Masefield
|
|
|
|
|
Thread Tools |
Search this Thread |
|
|
Display Modes |
Rate This Thread |
Linear Mode
|
|
Posting Rules
|
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts
HTML code is Off
|
|
|
|
Advertise Here
Recent Discussions |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Vendor Spotlight |
|
|
|
|