Repainting boom. Best practice on installing hardware

[phantomracer]

As the title suggests, Just stripped the paint off the boom, going to be priming and painting soon. Spent about 12 hours sanding the boom, running cleaning taps through the bolt holes and cleaning the threads on the hardware..

The reason doing this job, is the corrosion around all the bolt holes in the boom. Stainless hardware in Aluminum boom.. not shocked!

Looking to put the hardware back on eventually! Looking for a way to extend the time before the white powder death comes back!

The previous owner used automotive antiseize on some hardware. I know this is likely not the preferred method, but got to say, the bolts he used it on were the least corroded! And they came out like they were just installed, with no/minimal corrosion around the holes!

Is Tef-Gel still the modern/best choice for installing SS hardware in aluminum, or is there a better product?

[sailormed]

For me it is Tefgel.

[Bowdrie]

My general "go to" stuff has been the Permatex product sold at all the auto parts stores.
For some applications it's hard to beat the real "Alumalastic" caulk/sealant, but it's like many products in that a partially used tube will go bad, and there is a shelf life.
https://burnstines.com/products/alum...y-tube-25-case

https://edgeadhesives.com/wp-content...ILASTICTDS.pdf

[tkeithlu]

Your goal is to keep the junction of SS threads and aluminum dry and free of salt. Galvanic corrosion requires an electrolyte. Whatever you use needs to exclude water and stay there semi-permanently, while not preventing you from extracting the bolt at a later date. So, you're looking for something between 3M 5200 (never get it loose again without a torch) and silicone caulk (too soft).

[Benz]

Tef-gel all the way

[psk125]

Everyone seems to use tef-gel. Nice to see such meticulous work on an Ohlson 38 - great boats, beautiful, and worth taking care of.

[s/v Jedi]

Agree with tefgel for fasteners. I also use thin rubber or hdpe sheet between boom/mast and hardware.

For primer, consider this new technology: https://www.jamestowndistributors.co...t-detail/63769

I bought it and am about to use it for the first time so can’t tell if it performs as promised yet but I think from a company with that reputation it should be good. It allows going straight to finish as well as another primer when fairing etc. Is needed.

[phantomracer]

Originally Posted by psk125

Everyone seems to use tef-gel. Nice to see such meticulous work on an Ohlson 38 - great boats, beautiful, and worth taking care of.

Thank you. It is fortuitous that I started with a boat that was done. Just doing regular maintenance and upgrades... Easier to keep it up than to restore! Having inside heated storage/work bay surely helps a lot too!

[phantomracer]

Originally Posted by s/v Jedi

Agree with tefgel for fasteners. I also use thin rubber or hdpe sheet between boom/mast and hardware.

For primer, consider this new technology: https://www.jamestowndistributors.co...t-detail/63769

I bought it and am about to use it for the first time so can’t tell if it performs as promised yet but I think from a company with that reputation it should be good. It allows going straight to finish as well as another primer when fairing etc. Is needed.

If i were going awlgrip, I would likely use that. I am using Epifanes polyurethane 2 part, and will be using their 2 part epoxy primer. Will be rolling the paint, I have had good luck with the Epifanes as it is designed to roll and tip, and is more DIY friendly. I just can't spray where I am, or I would go with Awlgrip.

Good to see Tef-gel is still the go to product. Always served me well before.

[s/v Jedi]

Originally Posted by phantomracer

If i were going awlgrip, I would likely use that. I am using Epifanes polyurethane 2 part, and will be using their 2 part epoxy primer. Will be rolling the paint, I have had good luck with the Epifanes as it is designed to roll and tip, and is more DIY friendly. I just can't spray where I am, or I would go with Awlgrip.

Good to see Tef-gel is still the go to product. Always served me well before.

You can roll Epifanes over it as well because like Awlgrip it’s the same 2-part polyurethane. You can roll and brush Awlgrip topcoat… it’s Awlcraft 2000 that is spray only. Also, this CF primer can be rolled or brushed.

If you don’t use the CF primer but instead a 2-part epoxy primer, you need an extra step before applying the primer, like a chromate acid wash (Aluprep etc.). That is a pain which is why I’m trying this new tech.

[stormalong]

I am surprised no one has mentioned Duralac. I prefer it to Tefgel for bolts. Duralac hardens, unlike Tefgel. Tefgel has the consistency of grease and in high vibration or stress cycling loads bolts tend to work loose. The bolts on my gooseneck backed out considerably with Tefgel. I washed it out and replaced it with Duralac and the problem never happened again. Tefgel is fine for rivets.

I second the comments above about an insulator between aluminum and stainless fittings. I use thin flexible plastic sheet rather than caulk or silicone.

Silicone has no place on a boat. It is acidic right out of the tube and is very difficult to remove.

[Cheechako]

Lanolin/ Lan O Kote works well.

[phantomracer]

Originally Posted by s/v Jedi

You can roll Epifanes over it as well because like Awlgrip it’s the same 2-part polyurethane. You can roll and brush Awlgrip topcoat… it’s Awlcraft 2000 that is spray only. Also, this CF primer can be rolled or brushed.

If you don’t use the CF primer but instead a 2-part epoxy primer, you need an extra step before applying the primer, like a chromate acid wash (Aluprep etc.). That is a pain which is why I’m trying this new tech.

Yes I know you can roll awlgrip. It is just that Epifanes is more DIY friendly, and I have used it before. I actually do have the awlgrip on hand. It is more my comfort level as I have done epifanes before..and I already had the color custom mixed and should be delivered today!

Supposedly the Epifanes primer has a protectant in it for aluminum. But for prep, I still did an alumiprep and anodine coating for belt and suspenders protection. Maybe for the next project I will try it

[phantomracer]

Originally Posted by stormalong

I am surprised no one has mentioned Duralac. I prefer it to Tefgel for bolts. Duralac hardens, unlike Tefgel. Tefgel has the consistency of grease and in high vibration or stress cycling loads bolts tend to work loose. The bolts on my gooseneck backed out considerably with Tefgel. I washed it out and replaced it with Duralac and the problem never happened again. Tefgel is fine for rivets.

I second the comments above about an insulator between aluminum and stainless fittings. I use thin flexible plastic sheet rather than caulk or silicone.

Silicone has no place on a boat. It is acidic right out of the tube and is very difficult to remove.

will take a look at duralc.

Silicone should be illegal to have on boats!

[Benz]

Originally Posted by s/v Jedi

You can roll Epifanes over it as well because like Awlgrip it’s the same 2-part polyurethane. You can roll and brush Awlgrip topcoat… it’s Awlcraft 2000 that is spray only. Also, this CF primer can be rolled or brushed.

If you don’t use the CF primer but instead a 2-part epoxy primer, you need an extra step before applying the primer, like a chromate acid wash (Aluprep etc.). That is a pain which is why I’m trying this new tech.

I'm surprised at this because as of a couple years ago, Awlgrip was no longer recommending an acid etch for aluminum: just 545 right over sanded alloy. I wonder if they've changed back.
Love to hear how the new product works. While I abominate painted aluminum, sometimes its unavoidable.