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Old 24-04-2018, 14:23   #1
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Removing Through Hulls

As part of the refit of my present boat I have to replace the speed sensor through hull housing, it was easy enough to get the fastening nut off but the through hull does not want to come out. I've pulled through hulls out before but have not had this much trouble, my guess is that they were pretty liberal with the 5200 at the factory.
Anyone know of an easier way than trying to beat it out with a sledge? Or any miracle goop that softens 5200?
Any advice is appreciated.
I'm considering making a custom puller of some type but if anyone knows of a miracle 5200 remover I'd be very appreciative.
I've got several more to pull.
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Old 24-04-2018, 14:39   #2
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Re: Removing Through Hulls

Can you place a heavy weight on it and leave it for a day or two.

Or make a hook mechanism that is fitted externally and suspend a weight from it.
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Old 24-04-2018, 14:46   #3
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Re: Removing Through Hulls

Yes I can.
I have enough crap I've removed from the boat that can be used as weight.
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Old 24-04-2018, 14:48   #4
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Re: Removing Through Hulls

http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/...tml#post117113

https://www.debondcorporation.com/pr...marine-formula

Un-hesive
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Old 24-04-2018, 15:46   #5
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Re: Removing Through Hulls

Like he ^ said.

And in addition:

Release Adhesive & Sealant Remover 16oz. - BoatLIFE

This is one of those many cases where 5200 should never have been used. Why cannot people understand that the properties that make a great adhesive do NOT necessarily add up to a good SEALANT? There was no reason to glue the fitting to the hull.
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Old 24-04-2018, 16:49   #6
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Re: Removing Through Hulls

It may not have been necessary but unfortunately it's more common than I like to think.
I've had to remove a fair share of pieces glued to boat hulls with 5200.
This one is more difficult though, it appears that there's a slight pocket molded into the hull where the through hull is mounted so it doesn't protrude from the surface of the hull. This prevents me from getting anything in there to separate the through hull from the skin of the hull, I also don't want to damage the glass on the outside of the hull if I don't have to.
Thank goodness the speed sensor wasn't glued on with it.
Both sensor through hulls are older style and do not accept newer style sensors, I don't doubt they were original to the boat.
Thanks.
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Old 24-04-2018, 17:11   #7
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Re: Removing Through Hulls

If only dealing with the housing, use heat! Make/get a rod with washer? bigger than o.d. diameter, with a couple of stand offs, around perimeter! Heat external/internal flange, to soften adhesive. Note does not take much heat! Just uncomfortable to touch with bare hand ! set up, and tighten up up rod, and it should just ease out !
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Old 24-04-2018, 17:27   #8
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Re: Removing Through Hulls

Assuming it's not going to be re-used: Grind it off with a small grinder.
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Old 24-04-2018, 17:34   #9
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Re: Removing Through Hulls

Quote:
Originally Posted by billknny View Post
Like he ^ said.

And in addition:

Release Adhesive & Sealant Remover 16oz. - BoatLIFE

This is one of those many cases where 5200 should never have been used. Why cannot people understand that the properties that make a great adhesive do NOT necessarily add up to a good SEALANT? There was no reason to glue the fitting to the hull.
I just had a similar problem, trying to replace three deck hatches, where 5200 was used as a sealant around screws. I couldn't get the upper frames apart to replace the seals. I ended up buying three new hatch covers and installing the heads over my existing 5200-glued lower male frames.
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Old 24-04-2018, 18:05   #10
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Re: Removing Through Hulls

Cut it up using a Sawzall through the hole. You can slice the fitting into quarters and then chisel it out.
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Old 24-04-2018, 18:23   #11
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Re: Removing Through Hulls

Several years ago when Brion Toss still had his Rigging Forum up and running, there was a thread discussing what products to use to isolate stainless screws from aluminum masts.

Someone wrote in and said they worked at a mast manufacturing company, and he always used 5200 to install screws into the aluminum. The (justifiable) abuse heaped on that poor guy from dozens of professional riggers who had spent years dealing with pulling those screws out was a wonder to behold.
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Old 24-04-2018, 18:58   #12
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Re: Removing Through Hulls

Since I've owned mostly insurance and auction boats, as well as buying, fixing and selling a few auction boats I've seen all kinds of 5200 abuses.
My figuring is that the whoever bought the 5200 was "frugal" and didn't want to waste their expensive sealant, so they used it for everything on the boat, unfortunately ten years down the line all those hardware items are still impossible to remove.
A long time ago I tried to remove a deck fitting installed with the stuff and pealed the fiberglass up with it, I'm trying to avoid that now. Most fittings you can usually get a knife or razor blade under to help peel it, then xylene can soften it, but it takes a huge amount of time and effort, I'm trying to avoid both since time is precious at this point. I don't need to spend an entire day removing one fitting, or damage the glass and have to spend time repairing it.
I'll try the Debond, I've looked it up and it gets good ratings, I'll also use a home made puller to keep steady pressure on it. In the mean time I've got plenty of other things to work on.
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Old 25-04-2018, 10:59   #13
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Re: Removing Through Hulls

My thruhulls were being held in place with a polysulfide that wouldn't let go. I had ground off the mushroom portion of the thruhull on the outside of the hull and had tried pounding them into the boat with a drift and a sledge hammer and they wouldn't move.

I ended up making three cuts to the inside of the thruhull with a sawzall 120 degrees apart. Using a chisel and a 4 lb sledge I pounded each section at an angle to first break it free of the polysufide. Then I hit it straight into the boat. It was really a battle.

A friend in the boat business said using heat would ruin the fiberglass before any adhesive would let go.

He also recommended using a hole saw slightly bigger than the thruhull to cut it out. He said the outside of the thruhull would keep the hole saw centered. I was hesitant to make an even bigger hole in my boat and reinvented my procedure.

In the picture I attached you can see where I cut the thruhull and where it is breaking free from the polysulfide.

Good luck.
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Old 25-04-2018, 11:11   #14
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Re: Removing Through Hulls

Further to my previous post advising to grind off the thru-hull; Assuming it is a metal thru hull, the grinding will make it quite hot. Try to push the remaining piece of thru hull into the boat before it has a chance to cool off.
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Old 25-04-2018, 11:20   #15
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Re: Removing Through Hulls

Have anyone tried applying (lots) of heat? Assuming the glue won't hold up well, and the throughhull will take a lot if it's of metal.
I have two to remove this weekend...
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