Removing 5200?

[Lake-Effect]

Originally Posted by wkearney99

I'd wonder about some sort of threaded jig to help pull on the inserted pipe? It'd be some welding, a piece of pipe threaded to fit into those threads, and then have a bracket over it with a threaded bolt to allow cranking on it to pull it out. Sorta like the way you'd remove a pulley from a shaft.

That sounds feasible. Could be a simple as a long bolt that passes through the stanchion remnant (7/16"?) and some sort of bracket above that allows the stanchion bit to rise out as a nut is tightened. Should be a high tensile bolt.

This plus heat?

[Rubicon King]

Ahhh you must be talking about the good ole Grey sim kit B1/2 or B-2. I Love the fuel cell sealant from the Air Force and OEM's I fixed a rental car oil pan leak with it once...long story...but fun

Originally Posted by a64pilot

Usually 5200 isn’t all the bad. I gained experience removing aircraft fuel tank sealer, which is pretty much a two part 5200 and even tougher than 5200.
Very often 5200 is the preferred go to, even on items that will one day be removed, thru hulls for instance. I trust 5200 below the waterline, I don’t trust anything else myself.
Depending on what is glued together you can often get a piece of leader wire and cut the 5200 between the two pieces, or maybe cut it apart with a knife, lift an edge with a screwdriver, sometimes just time with parts being pried apart will cause it to let loose.
I’ve never used heat myself.

There are solvents for aircraft fuel tank sealer too, but they do more to make a God awful gooey mess than remove it, I’d suspect the 5200 solvent may be the same.

[a64pilot]

Originally Posted by Lake-Effect

That sounds feasible. Could be a simple as a long bolt that passes through the stanchion remnant (7/16"?) and some sort of bracket above that allows the stanchion bit to rise out as a nut is tightened. Should be a high tensile bolt.

This plus heat?

Depending on how many need to be done you could even rig up a hydraulic jack to pull it, sort of the opposite of a press.
5200 seems to fail with applied force over time.

[tkeithlu]

Thank you so much for your responses. No, I won't do it again. Yes, I know it's 3M 5200, Lisa Keith-Lucas (pro navigator, pro docker) installed them.

While I'm waiting for a new regulator for my oxy/acetylene torch to arrive, I'll give a try at drilling them out. I'll report back what I find.

[cabo_sailor]

First, this is why I do not allow 5200 on my boat. If I need that kind of adhesion I need to do a better job of construction.

There is a product, available only on the net, called Marine Debonder. It appears to work pretty well.
Debond Marine Formula https://g.co/kgs/Pqhngk
I hope the link works. I know of several people at my dock that swear by it. Unlike the West Marine product which produces a gooey mess, this stuff turns the 5200 brittle. A bit pricey but you don’t need much.