Remove Wilcox Crittenden seacock

[phantomracer]

Need to remove the Wilcox Crittenden seacock due to the backing plate is falling apart and the valve is moving when it is operated. So it has to come out and be rebed with a new backing plate.

Looking at the valve base, I don't see any bolt holes/nuts. How is the valve body attached to the boat? Just to the mushroom thru-hull? If so, how do you keep the body from turning when removing the thru-hull?

[Orion Jim]

Brace it with a piece of wood to keep it from turning or hold it with a pipe wrench. A piece of leather will keep the jaws from marring the seacock. You can also disassemble the seacock and put a wood dowel through the body to keep it from turning.

[phantomracer]

Originally Posted by Orion Jim

Brace it with a piece of wood to keep it from turning or hold it with a pipe wrench. A piece of leather will keep the jaws from marring the seacock. You can also disassemble the seacock and put a wood dowel through the body to keep it from turning.

Thanks, so that is how it is installed then? no hardware? just the straight threads of the thru-hull holding it in. I doubt that would be UL listed today!

Still on the fence if I should reuse it (valve is fine) or replace it with a Spartan seacock , to get something more modern

[Bowdrie]

The flange of the seacock should have been drilled for fasteners/bolts coming from the exterior of the hull.
Your right, today the installation, using only the thru hull as a device to secure the seacock would not pass muster.
With some clean-up and a bit of lapping you'll get many more years of service if you are careful to not distort it upon removal.
There is nothing "more modern" that will work any better, or last as long.
The only seacock that's its equal would be the Spartan.

[Uncle Bob]

Originally Posted by Bowdrie

The flange of the seacock should have been drilled for fasteners/bolts coming from the exterior of the hull.
Your right, today the installation, using only the thru hull as a device to secure the seacock would not pass muster.
With some clean-up and a bit of lapping you'll get many more years of service if you are careful to not distort it upon removal.
There is nothing "more modern" that will work any better, or last as long.
The only seacock that's its equal would be the Spartan.

Great style of seacock, repairable and metal to metal seal, and for what it's worth many boats the world over use the principle of threading a ball valve directly onto a thru hull, with absolute reliability. In my humble opinion what you have is better in several ways.

[phantomracer]

Originally Posted by Bowdrie

The flange of the seacock should have been drilled for fasteners/bolts coming from the exterior of the hull.
Your right, today the installation, using only the thru hull as a device to secure the seacock would not pass muster.
With some clean-up and a bit of lapping you'll get many more years of service if you are careful to not distort it upon removal.
There is nothing "more modern" that will work any better, or last as long.
The only seacock that's its equal would be the Spartan.

The seacock itself seems fine. I don't doubt it will clean up well. if it was not wiggling, I would not be touching it (other than servicing it). I did not see any fasteners, so I was not sure if there was a trick to remove it.

I was going with Spartan as they are the only US manufacturer. Blakes is the only other choice. A Groco ball valve, just does not look right, IMO, although would be a fine choice. But nothing like a tapered seacock!

[phantomracer]

Originally Posted by Uncle Bob

Great style of seacock, repairable and metal to metal seal, and for what it's worth many boats the world over use the principle of threading a ball valve directly onto a thru hull, with absolute reliability. In my humble opinion what you have is better in several ways.

It has been fine in my boat for 54 years. I was not sure if this was that style.

As with anything on a boat, it is all in the workmanship in the installation that is key. Can have the best parts, but mess up the install, it is not better than a cheap part!

If I take the time to remove it, still on the fence to reuse it or throw a new Spartan in the boat. I already made up a new reinforced fiberglass backing plate to replace the decaying wooden one.

[SVQuestOfPaget]

I had a similar setup that needed removing because of a rotten wood backing plate - G10 for me from here out! I'm also in favor of rebuilding the WC seacock. Ball valves still need maintenance, and if the seacock hasn't been too neglected then I favor their dependability and ability to rebuild without much difficulty.

In my case, the through hull was spinning because the old bedding had loosened when I tried to remove the valve. I made a slightly tapered dowel that fit the fitting from outside the hull, then cut it lengthwise down the middle. I used a wedge to force the dowel sides into the bronze fitting, then used a vise grip to hold the whole setup while the seacock was removed inside. The next time I need to do this I'll use a thin sheet of rubber between the dowel and through hull for even more grip with less pressure.

-Eric

[phantomracer]

Originally Posted by SVQuestOfPaget

I had a similar setup that needed removing because of a rotten wood backing plate - G10 for me from here out! I'm also in favor of rebuilding the WC seacock. Ball valves still need maintenance, and if the seacock hasn't been too neglected then I favor their dependability and ability to rebuild without much difficulty.

In my case, the through hull was spinning because the old bedding had loosened when I tried to remove the valve. I made a slightly tapered dowel that fit the fitting from outside the hull, then cut it lengthwise down the middle. I used a wedge to force the dowel sides into the bronze fitting, then used a vise grip to hold the whole setup while the seacock was removed inside. The next time I need to do this I'll use a thin sheet of rubber between the dowel and through hull for even more grip with less pressure.

-Eric

I purchased a seacock wrench to remove the thru-hull fitting.. I guess I could have fabricated a tool. This is the tool I got to remove the thru-hull. Just got to keep the body from moving! https://marinehowto.com/replacing-th...-and-seacocks/

If I replace the seacock, it will be with another tapered seacock (Spartan marine) although a Groco would be perfectly acceptable.

[SVTatia]

I have the exact same seacock on my boat and I am replacing it. It is 55 years old and it looks to be in good condition and I was prepared to keep it, but it is leaking in the closed position, this started lst season and its not a lot, just a drop every few minutes or so, enough to worry me... I once again disassembled it and did not see anything out of the ordinary.

4 years ago I removed the internal part, cleaned and "lapped" the chamber as per Maine Sail instructions.
This is something that cannot be tested once out of the water, and it can ruin my day if it fails, so I am not prepared to try to fix it and put it back only to discover it still leaks.
If I tighten the nut on the body, the leak stops, but then I cannot move the handle.

I think it has served its purpose well and I'll pull it out - if it does not come out clean, I am prepared to cut off the mushroon fiting from the outside.

Once this thing fails you have no recourse, so I already bought a new 1 1/2" Groco and some G10 from McMaster Carr for the backing plate, now I am waiting for good weather.

[Rumrace]

I didn’t know you could rebuild a seacock.
As too replacing it just because of wood falling apart seems sad.
Could you drill holes in the wood and fill with Epoxy to stabilize the mount?

[Cheechako]

The Mushroom fitting is just holding it in place. Just unscrew the fitting.
There's nothing better than those tapered cone seacocks.
I like to use lanolin to lube them, but they do turn a bit slow when you do.

I never lapped them. Just cleaned them up and re-lubed. Some even had porosity cast in the tapered machined surface from the factory. Never leaked. The entire surface does not have to be perfect!

Many many boats dont have the bolts holding the seacock. Bolts are probably 'one degree' safer, but it's seldom an issue and more holes in your boat.

[phantomracer]

Originally Posted by Rumrace

I didn’t know you could rebuild a seacock.
As too replacing it just because of wood falling apart seems sad.
Could you drill holes in the wood and fill with Epoxy to stabilize the mount?

hehe.. sounds like you need to spend some time on Marinehowto

Rod goes into stunning detail about each of those points!

servicing a tapered seacock
https://marinehowto.com/servicing-ta...cone-seacocks/

replacing seacock (mentions wood backing plate w/ epoxy)
https://marinehowto.com/replacing-th...-and-seacocks/

Since the seacock moved when I opened it, I am not going to trust the 54 year old bedding compound to be water tight. Best to remove it and reinstall or replace. Not a huge job. Detail oriented yes, might be tough to come out, but not technically difficult, engineering-wise.

[phantomracer]

Originally Posted by Cheechako

The Mushroom fitting is just holding it in place. Just unscrew the fitting.
There's nothing better than those tapered cone seacocks.
I like to use lanolin to lube them, but they do turn a bit slow when you do.
I never lapped them. Just cleaned them up and re-lubed. Some even had porosity cast in the tapered machined surface from the factory. Never leaked.

Many many boats dont have the bolts holding the seacock. Bolts are probably 'one degree' safer, but it's seldom an issue and more holes in your boat.

right, going to make the decision to rebuild or replace once I get the seacock out.

[Rumrace]

I have the factory brass ones I think. Apparently poor and short lived. Will the throughhulls fit the better Bronze seacock ?
I have seen the throughhull ripped out to replace them.
A nylon plate to support the replacement or rebuild might work out well. I see it used for motor mount brackets.