I recently had the same issue for my very old Ford 80 HP engine. After spending time talking to local engineers I finally gave up.
Getting a mounting was hard enough, but the requirement to use the correct hoses was another nightmare. Finally, if I had gone ahead (and it was certainly going to be expensive) the resulting
plumbing from a vibrating engine to the engine room wall was going to be a headache.
So I had a further look at the oil filter which is engine mounted. Mine is a canister which is removed and the oil filter inside is replaced. It is not a spin on type.
The problem with oil spills was that the canister was sloped at 45 degrees and when loosened, it always spilled oil into the bilges.
So I had a drain and an air inlet made onto the cylindrical canister wall. These fittings are the smallest I could get and are soldered or welded on so there is no leaking. (Put in by my local radiator
repair chap. About $100 all up.)
The drain is near the bottom and the air inlet is at the top. When I need an oil filter change, I hold a plastic container under the drain outlet, open both valves and let the oil drain from the canister into the container. In other words, I control the
removal of the oil from the filter. After the draining has stopped, I close the two valves and remove the canister and then the internal filter.
To date, this has worked well. It cost a fraction of the
price of the external mounting arrangement and there is no extra plumbing. It is compact.
If you have the standard spin on filter then this won't be of much help. The process still involves a little access gymnastics for an old bloke, but it is certainly clean and workable.
I also have a
Yanmar 1 GM engine (sans gearbox) which I use to run compressors,
water pumps and a 240 VAC
alternator. It has a spin on horizontal oil filter. An old
engineer showed me how to remove these and not make a mess. You need a hammer, a solid screw driver and a plastic container. Hold the plastic container under the filter, then drive the screw driver through the higher side wall of the filter. Use the inserted screw driver to rotate the filter. This can break the seal and let a little air in. Move the screw driver around until the driver is positioned above the container. Slowly remove the screw driver and then let all the oil drain out of the screw driver hole. i.e you can control the oil flow. Then remove/replace the filter. There are variations on this. e.g. where you punch the initial hole and also using a second hole to let air in faster.
On this dinky little engine, I can access the bottom and I have built in a manual valve with a hose at the sump drain. So for oil changes, I can now completely drain the engine. This works well, but could be near impossible for many many larger engines, but,
food for thought.
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