Redoing my fixed portlights (deadlights)

[Island Time O25]

If one is doing all this work rebedding deadports wouldn't it make sense to replace them with opening ones? Sure it may involve some fiberglass work to cut out to fit the new ports but IMO the end result will definitely justify the the time and money spent. My first boat had deadports and although they did not leak I never figured out why the original buyers never pushed the manufacturers for opening ones. My current boat does not have any deadports and I love it as the ventilation achieved is tremendous, practically feels like you're outside but without the sun to beat on you.

[JPA Cate]

islandtime,

Opening ports are very nice, but deadlights -- properly bedded-- are more likely to keep out boarding waves.

Uncivilized and Terra Nova have given the best responses here, so far.

Sanibel, 1/4" is way too minimal. Personally I'd like 1/2", or at least 12 or 13 mm for sealant in this application.

[sanibel sailor]

I have finally completed my project. I wound up doing it without major re-engineering. The outer frame is somewhat different than I imagined prior to removal. It has a raised central area and lowered lips at the edges. In cross-section it is somewhat like a top hat. The thicker central area allows deeper insertion of the screw threads. The outer flat area lands on the cabin surface. The Plexiglas originally fit into the inner flat area. I increased the width of the Plexiglas to cover the raised area. I cut the notches for the fasteners oversized to allow movement. This leaves about a 1/8 inch wide by 1/4" deep recess which I then filled with silicone. I first mounted and sealed the bronze outside frame to the cabin side with 4200, holding it with clamps. It is not ideal as the wavering saw cut from manufacturing results in 1/8" bearing in places. Once set, I then installed the Plexiglas and inner frame, initially using longer machine screws with wing nuts to clamp it down, then sequentially replacing these with appropriate length machine screws. The recess between the Plexiglas and the outer frame was about 3/32 of an inch which allowed a nice bead of caulk. The label for 4200 and 5200 cautioned against using it with acrylic.

The increased thickness of the assembly due to landing the plexi on the raised section does not seem to have any ill effect as I was still able to clamp and compress things as before.

Incidentally I also put a layer of Formica across the water damaged teak veneer plywood. This lightens up the interior remarkably. I found that Wilsonart brand off-white laminate is a perfect match to the headliner gelcoat color.

[sanibel sailor]

Originally Posted by Island Time O25

If one is doing all this work rebedding deadports wouldn't it make sense to replace them with opening ones? Sure it may involve some fiberglass work to cut out to fit the new ports but IMO the end result will definitely justify the the time and money spent. My first boat had deadports and although they did not leak I never figured out why the original buyers never pushed the manufacturers for opening ones. My current boat does not have any deadports and I love it as the ventilation achieved is tremendous, practically feels like you're outside but without the sun to beat on you.

I do not know of any opening portlights that would fit the holes which are about 8 x 30 and a trapezoidal shape.

[Terra Nova]

Originally Posted by sanibel sailor

...the wavering saw cut from manufacturing results in 1/8" bearing in places...

This can be repaired using high strength epoxy filler to build up the worst gaps, in order to provide sufficient surface area for bedding.