Recommendations for Non Skid Decking

[minaret]

Originally Posted by Celestialsailor

Not my jobs. But it does take finesse and a very light touch. You're right...practice makes perfect.

Yea, well I've "practiced" on a great many decks using a great many techniques, and believe me you can't make a really heavy skid pattern like I'm recommending here by roller stipple and have it look anywhere near as nice as a spray or sprinkle job does. It's just not possible.

[AnchorageGuy]

Originally Posted by Geoduck

Tape off the borders of the area you want non-skid, rough sand the area-60grit or so, apply a coat of west system 105/207 clear epoxy, cover the area with ground up walnut shells, course ground coffee or sand if you prefer. Let the glue go off and vacume up what doesnt stick, spray paint what ever color you want or put on a thinned coat of epoxy. Walnut shells are the best - the color of teak - looks great, lasts long, cheap, easy to do. Do a test on a piece of plywood to get the hang of it before you go at it.

A couple of problems using West System. Spray painting over it without a thorough cleaning to get rid of the blush and a good sanding to make the paint stick will probably remove anything used for non skid. Chuck

[BriaF]

I have used treadgrip for ten years & found it
To provide excellent grip & durability.

It is softer under foot than many.
Easy to apply.
It requires 2-3 coats can be applied with a roller.
Thin the first coat.
Water based, roller can be left in water to be reused for
Following coats.
Comes in different colours, the white can be tinted to
Suit your needs.
Apply second & third coats fairly heavy to achieve
Required texture.
Cost effective = good value

[Celestialsailor]

Originally Posted by minaret

Yea, well I've "practiced" on a great many decks using a great many techniques, and believe me you can't make a really heavy skid pattern like I'm recommending here by roller stipple and have it look anywhere near as nice as a spray or sprinkle job does. It's just not possible.

Don't get me wrong...I'm not saying that your jobs aren't better...I've never seen them. I was refering to your "over-lap" statement. There are none in my jobs. No offence but you're not the only one here that has worked on boats for a living.

[sabray]

I worked on a boat that used black beauty for non skid. Believe me you can over do non skid. Anytime our skin touched those decks it was instant abrasion.held up quite well had great non skid quality. Just offensive as hell if your skin touched it. By god nothing would skid on that stuff.

[rognvald]

After experimenting with small selected areas on my boat, I am in the process of replacing my factory molded nonskid with Treadmaster. They offer the original diamond pattern- for areas that require aggresive nonskid ie; cabintops, sidedecks and the smooth- for areas requiring less aggresive nonskid ie; seating, anchor locker lids, cockpit coaming. Also, a new faux teak pattern is available. It is easy to clean, attractive and worth the fairly costly and labor intensive effort required to convert your vessel. For those who are looking for a truly long term approach with the best nonskid properties (Practical Sailor), I would highly recommend it.

[Cheechako]

Originally Posted by rognvald

After experimenting with small selected areas on my boat, I am in the process of replacing my factory molded nonskid with Treadmaster. They offer the original diamond pattern- for areas that require aggresive nonskid ie; cabintops, sidedecks and the smooth- for areas requiring less aggresive nonskid ie; seating, anchor locker lids, cockpit coaming. Also, a new faux teak pattern is available. It is easy to clean, attractive and worth the fairly costly and labor intensive effort required to convert your vessel. For those who are looking for a truly long term approach with the best nonskid properties (Practical Sailor), I would highly recommend it.

I removed the teak decks and put on treadmaster on the HC38 seen at left. It came out wnderful, i had the decks/cabin repainted prior to applying the treadmaster. I dont think theres anything better on a northsea trawler, but in barefoot weather, its terrible. The round pattern is a little better, had it on stairway etc, still not great on bare feet. Just an fyi.

[senormechanico]

One of the things I like about Kiwigrip (at least the light color grey) is it isn't too hot on your feet and it's also easy on bare feet while still being grippy.

It might be slippery when covered with ice, but what the heck would I be doing on a boat covered with ICE ???

[CarinaPDX]

Don't use sand; not because it isn't good non-skid (it is good non-skid). It has 2 disadvantages: when new it is quite abrasive, so falling on it can take a bit of skin off. And when it wears out (yes, it does) it is a nightmare to remove. I put mine on with gel coat, fairly thick. It pretty much destroys anything I try to use to remove it. Still working on it a patch at a time...

I use the Interlux particles in the varnish on the top of the bowsprit. They are excellent non-skid, and in that application are very hard to see - it just looks varnished. They are also very easy to sand off (see above) when time to re-coat.

Treadmaster is certainly one of the best non-skids available, but as noted before it is very hard on bare feet so I wouldn't have it on my boat. I do barefootin'

For covering old gel-coat nonskid I would go with one of the rubberized coatings described above. They are very good non-skid, go on thickly so easier to do prep, and the water clean-up is a plus. A boat here did that and the results were impressive.

Greg

[binkmann10]

I bought some non skid paint from west marine and am going to practice on our dingy's floor before moving on to the Catalina. The Catalina's molded "non-skid" has simply lost it grip over the last several years, so the dogs, my wife and I can barely stand up when wet. If the sun ever shines here again, I will give it a shot.

[minaret]

Originally Posted by CarinaPDX

Don't use sand; not because it isn't good non-skid (it is good non-skid). It has 2 disadvantages: when new it is quite abrasive, so falling on it can take a bit of skin off. And when it wears out (yes, it does) it is a nightmare to remove. I put mine on with gel coat, fairly thick. It pretty much destroys anything I try to use to remove it. Still working on it a patch at a time...

Another point with sand is the way it wears out. Sand is totally impermeable, and so it is only encapsulted in the paint. As the skid is walked on the paint is actually abraded away by the sand inside it, and eventually the sand will become exposed and be worn away. I think using sand results in a too aggressive skid which actually accelerates it's own demise. Griptex is designed to be permeable by paint on a microscopic level, so the paint actually soaks into each little particle of grit and you end up with a one-part structure as opposed to a two part structure. This is a great deal more durable and long lasting. Anyone who has seen a well-worn sand deck that you can see the sand particles in knows this.

I use the Interlux particles in the varnish on the top of the bowsprit. They are excellent non-skid, and in that application are very hard to see - it just looks varnished. They are also very easy to sand off (see above) when time to re-coat.

Yes, Griptex is also designed to be clear for use with clear coats.

Treadmaster is certainly one of the best non-skids available, but as noted before it is very hard on bare feet so I wouldn't have it on my boat. I do barefootin'


Treadmaster looks great when it's new, but in my experience about year five it starts looking pretty tired. Once this begins the only answer is the long and very expensive process of removing the old Treadmaster and replacing it with new. With a Griptex deck you just tape it off, abrade it, and apply a fresh topcoat, and it looks brand new again. You can also make a structural or other repair in a Griptex deck and blend it nicely.

For covering old gel-coat nonskid I would go with one of the rubberized coatings described above. They are very good non-skid, go on thickly so easier to do prep, and the water clean-up is a plus. A boat here did that and the results were impressive.

Personally I strongly dislike Kiwigrip et al, mostly because I do not like the rubbery texture under my feet, but also because I find it hard to clean and the longevity is not good. I also find it to be quite ugly. However, it is cheap and can be applied by a total novice...

Greg

Just my 2c.

[CarinaPDX]

+1

Good comments - probably worth more than 2¢

I am unfamiliar with Griptex. As it is I seem to have a lifetime supply of the Interlux particles, but if I ever need more I'll take a look.

Interesting comments on the rubberized coatings. They certainly look good new, but it does make sense that they would have a shorter life and acquire dirt.

It seems the OP has made his decision, so perhaps time to move on...

Greg

[sww914]

I spent some time on a boat with Kiwigrip, I liked it and the owner liked it and it was still good after 10 years. I 3rd, 4th, and 5th the practice on something idea. Applying rubberized texture under the paint on cars, we would get a big piece of cardboard and practice until we could match the texture exactly and the results were repeatable.

[tsl]

Does anyone have a suggestion for very light (small particle)coating?
I have a pyramid pattern and must paint over it. I'm thinking of using something like Bright side by interlux and flattening it way down but open to something that may give a bit more grip. The flexable coatings sound interesting but I don't want the rocks that go with it.
Any Ideas?

[bstreep]

I'll throw in my $0.02, since we're in the middle of the project.

If your non-skid is still there, just tape it off (use a GOOD quality 3M tape, like a green tape, or it will bleed), scratch it up with maroon 3M pads, then paint with a 2 part like Interlux Perfection (it rolls on), with Intergrip mixed in (you DO have to keep mixing it, or you will get patterns). Then on the second coat (you can apply the same day, based upon temperature, so you don't have to pull the tape), mix 1/2 and 1/2 with the Perfection deglosser. No Intergrip in the second coat. Turned out AMAZING.