Reclaiming old teak deck

[kazenza]

Am having to Rebed sections of my teak deck. It's 3/8 inch teak over glass, screwed, and about 30 yrs old. I've been researching adhered decks and wondering if it's feasible to pull the deck, plane the boards to 1/4 and adhere boards instead of screwing them down. I'd fill the deck holes w epoxy and drill the holes in the boards out all the way through and glue in teak plugs. As a woodworker this seems like it should work, but am wondering I anyone has any feedback on whether this might work and also what adhesive to use. I've seen posts that teak and epoxy doesn't adhere well and others that recommend it. Randy

[tropicalescape]

Originally Posted by kazenza

Am having to Rebed sections of my teak deck. It's 3/8 inch teak over glass, screwed, and about 30 yrs old. I've been researching adhered decks and wondering if it's feasible to pull the deck, plane the boards to 1/4 and adhere boards instead of screwing them down. I'd fill the deck holes w epoxy and drill the holes in the boards out all the way through and glue in teak plugs. As a woodworker this seems like it should work, but am wondering I anyone has any feedback on whether this might work and also what adhesive to use. I've seen posts that teak and epoxy doesn't adhere well and others that recommend it. Randy

Dont know if it will work but they have a new product for adhearing solid wood to a subsurface...mosture cure polyureathane adhesive..i used it to glue an antique yellow heart pine floor(very resinous) to concrete which could not be done before this product came out.(10 years ago)Bostics is the brand name..not cheap,but will hold to most surfaces..good luck

[goboatingnow]

Originally Posted by tropicalescape

Dont know if it will work but they have a new product for adhearing solid wood to a subsurface...mosture cure polyureathane adhesive..i used it to glue an antique yellow heart pine floor(very resinous) to concrete which could not be done before this product came out.(10 years ago)Bostics is the brand name..not cheap,but will hold to most surfaces..good luck

I've put down teak decks with polyurethane adhesive ( and a catalyst) its never coming up.

Dave

[HopCar]

I'd contact Teak Decking Systems. They make an epoxy for doing just what you're talking about. The World's Leader in Pre-Manufactured Custom Teak Decks - Teakdecking Systems®
They also make a terrific caulk for the seams.

[klubko]

Have a look at Sikaflex, particularly Sikaflex-298. I believe that's exactly what you want. We just used the very same approach in our cockpit. Our teak is probably over 30 years old. Be prepared that few planks might be rotten. Good luck!

[hummingway]

I'm facing the same task. Is there a reason to use the faux caulking other then keeping the traditional look?

[Celestialsailor]

I will commit sacrilege here and say...If your going to the trouble of tearing up the decks and epoxying the holes, just leave the teak off and do non-skid. Down the road you'll be a happier camper.

[hummingway]

Originally Posted by Celestialsailor

I will commit sacrilege here and say...If your going to the trouble of tearing up the decks and epoxying the holes, just leave the teak off and do non-skid. Down the road you'll be a happier camper.

I love the teak but I've been thinking that way too. The teak is nice on the eyes and nice on the feet but there must be a mile of it!

[Celestialsailor]

I helped my friend do his Peterson 44. We even found a few soft spots in the core. So our opinion was that we got to it just in time. Also...have you seen the price of teak?

[hummingway]

Did you do anything about the soft spots?

[Celestialsailor]

Yes...Luckly they were small isolated spots. Both around deck drains. Since it was less thane 1 square ft., we drilled 1/4" holes, set a small heater under the decks for a week. Then we chamfered the holes, use Smith & Co. penetrating epoxy in the core, then made a slurry of Epoxy/Cabo-Sil/Mill Fibers to a consistency of apple sauce and smood that in. After sanding the decks were coated with Awl-grip LPU and Cabo-sil to a light paste (for non-skid) and rolled with a shot nap roller. Later a light sanding with 180 to knock off the tops of the non-skid. That deck is now 15 years old with one chip from a wrench that was dropped from aloft.

[kazenza]

Believe me, I get the rationale for just pulling all the teak and going non-skid. I have to rebed some sections and am not too far from recaulking a lot of the rest of the deck. I have some leaks on the fordeck that are clearly from screwholes up front, although don't seem to have any soft spots. The existing teak is worn, but not rotten, which is what tempts me so sorely to try and salvage it. I may still get everything off and say screw it, but still am greatful for people's advise on adhesives as the opinions vary widely with Teak. Randy