Quick Welding Question

[santa clara]

Hi all
Could anyone in the known tell me whether it would be possible to perform some welding surgery on my bow fitting without damaging the wood/grp, or would things get too hot?

The new anchor isn't happy as things stand!

Cheers martin

[daddle]

Doubtful.

[TassieBloke]

+1 Daddle

Posts a few pics, and there will be many here who could help make an assessment.

Bloke

[santa clara]

Hope this helps

Thanks guys

[capngeo]

How about a close-up of the repair zone? There are a few commercial heat sink products... Few work better than a garden hose. The logistics of a proper weld whilst being garden hosed can be daunting!

[santa clara]

Originally Posted by capngeo

How about a close-up of the repair zone? There are a few commercial heat sink products... Few work better than a garden hose. The logistics of a proper weld whilst being garden hosed can be daunting!

That's a tricky one as I'm not exactly sure what I need to do. I think you can see where the bolt for the original roller is, this needs lowering and possibly moving forward. So the weld would be as far away from the boat as possible. Hope that makes sense.


Regards m.

[hpeer]

Having tried it once, welding a bow sprit on the hard is harder than it looks and the splatter may do damage to your gel coat.

Rather why not try to come up with a fabricated shape that would do the trick.

Two SS plates that would fit tight against the outside of the existing fitting welded together at the bottom and a roller at the end. Drive out the existing roller fitting and use a longer pin to hold the extension. You may want to drill and put a bolt further back on either side.

Use some cardboard to mock it up.

[captain58sailin]

I wouldn't weld on it in place, even if no damage is apparent on the surface, you might cook something underneath that won't cause problems until you are in some rough water and somehow you have water coming in.

[sailvayu]

If the weld is forward on the roller it is possible to have a wet rag placed aft of the area to prevent the heat from traveling down to where it is attached to the boat. It is likely the welding would be done with TIG not stick (at least how I would do it) This produces high local heat. I am guessing it could be done but remember it will have to be polished after as well. It is often easier to just remove the fitting to gain good access for both the welding and polishing operations. All things are possible you just have to weigh the advantages and disadvantages. So like many things boat "it all depends"

[santa clara]

Right, welding in situ is clearly not the right thing to do.

I like the sound of this! I'm not sure I get the 2nd sentence, I'm being thick, sorry. Could you elaborate, it's the longer pin bit that is stumping me

Cheers m

Originally Posted by hpeer

Two SS plates that would fit tight against the outside of the existing fitting welded together at the bottom and a roller at the end. Drive out the existing roller fitting and use a longer pin to hold the extension. You may want to drill and put a bolt further back on either side.

Use some cardboard to mock it up.

[GordMay]

Originally Posted by hpeer

Two SS plates that would fit tight against the outside of the existing fitting welded together at the bottom and a roller at the end. Drive out the existing roller fitting and use a longer pin to hold the extension. You may want to drill and put a bolt further back on either side...

The distance between the new cheeks will be greater, requiring a longer roller axle pin, because the extended cheek plates were bolted on outside of the existing cheeks.