Question on mottled teak

[dmksails]

I removed the varnish a 2 years ago and have let it weather. Now I'm getting ready to prep the teak for oil.

I have a problem with the scrollwork - it has light/dark spots, probably caused by overheating with the heatgun when removing the varnish.

When I wet this down it appears that the light/dark areas disappear. I'm thinking I'll just go ahead and oil this.

Here's the question - if after oiling this area I find I made a mistake the the splotchy areas are made worse - how do I recover?

[JPA Cate]

How you recover is wash it with turps, sand lightly, and put varnish back on. Use good quality varnish, and count on renewing it as soon as possible in the spring. (It has to be warm enough for it to set properly, but not so hot it blushes.)

Ann

[jamhass]

After you clean and sand, wipe with thinner (painter's thinner, mineral spirits, denatures alcohol, etc.) If dark stains are still visible, you can bleach them out with wood bleach (oxalic acid), then varnish.

[LittleWing77]

Epiphanes!

Very nice wood detail, by the way. We've all got fingers crossed that it turns out well.

Would you please provide pictures of the finished project?

Warmly,
LittleWing77

[doog]

Oxalic acid is often used to remove stains and oxidation on teak. It's somewhat corrosive and removes a bit of wood. Peroxide bleach is a more powerful oxidizer to remove stains. It's used by wood Refinishers to lighten dark pigmented wood to the desired color and also to remove stains. Klean strip used to make a wonderful two part peroxide bleach but it was deemed too hazardous to be publicly retailed in the Home Improvement centers. Ironically now the best source of high-strength peroxide bleach is the health food store! It will eat a hole right through your skin but people prepare mixtures of it for medicinal use. When I want a powerful would bleach I go to the health food store and get peroxide bleach. Please research it yourself so you know how to neutralize and handle it if you choose to take this route.

[Dougtiff]

Oiling is not a good idea, as it will attrack dirt and grime, and will turn black, best to leave it natural or varnish, teak has lot's of OIL in it, and is quite happy with not having any coating, just clean it with some Joy and water, using a SPONGE, do't use a brush, as you will remove the soft wroth ring's, and it will become corrigated.

[Cheechako]

Oil will look nice... but only for a short time!
No easy answers.
The light color is nice and will stay if you wash with salt water often.
I see you are here on Puget Sound... I can tell you this from years of varnishing up here: The rain removes about 3 coats a year . If you put 3 coats of varnish on, 1.5 years later you will have bald spots breaking through. Once that happens you will have to remove back to bare wood or will have blotches.

Here's a wild idea: Just varnish that inlaid scrollwork only? Vertical surfaces last far longer that flat surfaces... like the top of the bulwark.

[David B]

Originally Posted by dmksails

I removed the varnish a 2 years ago and have let it weather. Now I'm getting ready to prep the teak for oil.

I have a problem with the scrollwork - it has light/dark spots, probably caused by overheating with the heatgun when removing the varnish.

When I wet this down it appears that the light/dark areas disappear. I'm thinking I'll just go ahead and oil this.

Here's the question - if after oiling this area I find I made a mistake the the splotchy areas are made worse - how do I recover?

If it were mine, I would be treating with Semco Teak Restorer (two part) to return it to freshly sanded teak colour, then giving a light sand as required and treating with Sikkens Cetol Marine or Woodskin. It weathers like an oil, but gives the appearance of a satin varnish. so you get a good look without any issue of flaking. Just a wipe over with turpentine once an year, and another coat. In fact I get away with once every three years it's that good.