Propeller -- To Paint or Not to Paint? That is the Question.

[NahanniV]

Here's an article about bronze props and copper based anti-fouling:

https://forums.sailboatowners.com/in...-paint.105840/

[Martkimwat]

I Have a similar problem on my Parker 27 with the nose cone anode on my Featherstream prop, and I am moored on pile moorings in Gosport. I have an additional anode on the stainless steel skeg which is just in front of the prop which also erodes rapidly, but strangely, the main anode which is about 1 foot away from the other two anodes, to one side, and bonded to the engine, is hardly wearing at all, in fact I haven't changed it for the last two years as the wear is so low. Don't believe it to be stray current as otherwise, that one would erode as well surely?

Regarding prop antifouling, I tried Propshield and it was useless on my previous folding prop. Now I have a feathering prop, the recommendation is not to heat it up to high heat as is required to apply Propshield (melts the grease apparently), so for the last two years, I have used lanolin which has worked pretty well. I just heat up the lanolin first to melt it with a hot air gun, apply it to the prop with a brush, flash over the prop with the hot air gun till the lanolin 'curtains', wait for it to set then put another coat of melted lanolin on top of the first and that's it. I do the same on the stainless steel skeg, as you cannot get normal antifoul to stick to stainless.

[cottonsail]

I've used Velox for the past 3 years. I've had pretty good results but not perfect. The boat is in the water and traveling for 6 months. Then it's on the hard for 6 months. We cruise Florida and the Bahamas.

[CGirvan]

I've been wondering how something like the following would effect zinc wear.

https://www.westmarine.com/buy/petti...rrier--6077937

The active ingredient seems to be zinc.

[Glen Ballou]

I have been using Petit PropCoat for 3 or 4 years now and I have not had any growth including barnacles on the prop for an entire season. Previously I had to scrape the prop 3 or 4 times a year. Defender sells it for $24.99. I highly recommend it.

[Pete7]

Originally Posted by fstbttms

These guys are all in the UK, where in-water hull cleaning just ain't done, apparently.

Sadly no. Probably something to do with yachties being tight fisted

There are local divers, but the rules insist on you having, 1 x diver, 1 x line handler, 1 x standby diver and 1 x supervisor.

Commercial diving projects inland/inshore: Diving at Work Regulations 1997 Approved Code of Practice

Anyone commercially trying to do a bit of work under the radar will be dobbed in to the authorities. Even sub aqua clubs working for beer money as we used to do, are now on a sticky wicket.

The other thing is that most marinas don't allow diving in the slips. The only way around this is to do it at night time and to beg forgiveness if caught rather than ask permission and be denied.

A lift out and week ashore is £500 ($690) in southern UK for a 30ft yacht. Suddenly a beach and some bilge keels to go with the big tides start to make financial sense.

Anyway back to the thread, Velox doesn't comes in several sized tins. I ma now on the third season have have used half of the 0.25L tins, one primer and one antifoul.

[ccannan]

Originally Posted by Martkimwat

... so for the last two years, I have used lanolin which has worked pretty well. I just heat up the lanolin first to melt it with a hot air gun, apply it to the prop with a brush, flash over the prop with the hot air gun till the lanolin 'curtains', wait for it to set then put another coat of melted lanolin on top of the first and that's it.

What is your source of lanolin (provide a link)? Is it a solid (like butter) or a gel/paste that could be squeezed from a tube?

[PEACEMAKER 455]

I have copper plated several props for power boats and yachts with 40 microns of copper then spraying with salt solution and leaving in plastic bag for 4 days to green copper

[Quebramar]

First year I bought my Najad 373 it was not painted. I noted lots of small barnacles when hauling out at the end of the season.
Now with 4 years experience, I could feel that after September, when the boat moves less, the power of the propeller is quite reduced, even though there are not many barnacles. The effect is really significant: in harbour, 3-4 kn at approx 1500rpm, now just after hauled in, 5.5kn, and also less inertia.
I use a primer in spray, then Trilux also spray. Both from International, one of the main brands in Bnenelux (AkzoNobel).
Never without it for me, and yes that’s maybe due to the quality of the waters in our neighbourhood. I wish I could do without all these stuff.

[sailorboy1]

Originally Posted by Dockhead

I've had two Bruntons on two different boats over more than 20 years. I've always kept them in bare bronze and scraped and polished them on every haul out.

But one problem I have is voracious anode consumption -- I can barely get 4 months out of one of the standard anodes (even when I protect the screw bosses with Prop Speed so that they don't fall off). Surely the large amount of exposed bronze has something to do with this. Maybe it makes sense to paint the prop with hard antifoul, or wax with Prop Speed, as many do?

What are the pros and cons?

I use the Barncale Buster spray. I've been in the water for 24 months and there have been no growth on the prop or shaft, the paint has pretty much stayed on the prop except for the edges, and the zincs are not wasting as fast because there is less differential metal exposed to the water.

So far as I can tell there are no cons except the $15 or so I spent on the can of spray, which is made up by the speed of the prop not fouling and not having to replace the zincs as often.

[Suijin]

I am now a huge believer in Prop Speed having used it for the last few years on my MaxProp. I hesitated due to the price, but it gets zero growth and has proven highly durable. The current application is going on three years and it has seen a lot of motoring. I've probably saved the cost of the kit in fuel consumption over that time (not really, but I'd like to think so).

Evidently it takes some experience to apply it properly and I've been cautioned about doing it myself, but that's from people who make a living in yards. Next time around I'll probably buy the kit and give it a go.

[Over Budget]

I moor my boat in a bay that attracts plenty of critters who loved my prop. At the suggestion of a friend I've applied Propspeed for the last four years and haven't had a problem since. Prior to that I used a reasonably priced diver to clean my bottom and prop, but Propspeed eliminated the need for that ritual.

I agree with the others who suggest getting an electrician to check for leaks. My anode lasts the entire season (May to October), but, again, I'm on a mooring.

[JPA Cate]

Yes, it's important to get the timing right, but we've been doing our own for years, now. We've used both Prop Speed, and Prop Gold (a competitior) and both work well. Just follow the directions exactly. Our experience, on a Flex-o-fold 3 blade is that it wears thin on the tips of the blades, but works as advertised, that if something does get on it, you can wipe it off easily. I don't really see Dockhead doing this in Greenland, though, water pretty darn cold.

Dockhead, I'm wondering if perhaps you are over-zinced. We were, and the removal of one of the zincs then gave us much better overall zinc life. Jim understands the chemistry or electrics of this better than me, so send him a PM, if you're interested in a logical explanation.

Ann

[senormechanico]

I use LanoCote, made by Forespar.

[bigman1]

Originally Posted by Dockhead

I've had two Bruntons on two different boats over more than 20 years. I've always kept them in bare bronze and scraped and polished them on every haul out.

But one problem I have is voracious anode consumption -- I can barely get 4 months out of one of the standard anodes (even when I protect the screw bosses with Prop Speed so that they don't fall off). Surely the large amount of exposed bronze has something to do with this. Maybe it makes sense to paint the prop with hard antifoul, or wax with Prop Speed, as many do?

What are the pros and cons?

I would consider painting the prop with several coats of epoxy resin,the plastic in the epoxy should shield the prop from galvanic current.Anyway some of the more technical forumites should keep us on course.