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Old 08-05-2010, 20:55   #1
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Propeller Shaft Removal

I have a 1994 Carver 380 Santego with Walter V-Drives. I bent the port propeller shaft last year pulling the boat out of the water on a new (used, but new to me) trailer. I have the new shaft and was able to get it manufactured by the original manufacturer. I have removed the 4 bolts holding the coupler that attaches the propeller shaft to the v-drive(not sure what the proper name is), and the recessesd allen set-screw on the coupler, but can't seem to budge the shaft. Any suggestions ?
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Old 08-05-2010, 21:42   #2
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Slide Hammer Shaft Puller
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Old 08-05-2010, 21:53   #3
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where might I find one?
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Old 08-05-2010, 21:57   #4
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Thanks! Where might I find one of these?
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Old 09-05-2010, 04:04   #5
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Get 4 hex head bolts longer than the coupling bolts. insert a deep socket, or something similar between the shaft end and the engine coupling. Tighten the bolts, sequentially, and let the socket push the shaft out. Various size bolts and sockets may be needed
If neither coupling is threaded, use threaded rod.
I used this method yesterday.
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Old 09-05-2010, 06:36   #6
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shaft removal

Applying heat to the coupling while it is under tension usually works, just don,t set fire to the boat.
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Old 09-05-2010, 06:44   #7
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Get 4 hex head bolts longer than the coupling bolts. insert a deep socket, or something similar between the shaft end and the engine coupling. Tighten the bolts, sequentially, and let the socket push the shaft out. Various size bolts and sockets may be needed
If neither coupling is threaded, use threaded rod.
I used this method yesterday.
yes this is exactly what you need to do, cheap and easy, okay maybe not easy but it works, i grabbed that trick from nigel calders book and used it 6 months ago on a very rusty coupler and it worked like a charm
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Old 09-05-2010, 14:47   #8
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Use fine thread bolts for that trick. works better than course thread.

I pulled my shaft last winter. After a month of using every trick in the book, I had to cut the flange off. Some of them are on TIGHT. You can buy a replacement flange for under $100 from Marine Machining, Marine Machining & Manufacturing - Home. If you do, you should get the shaft fit to the flange by a good machine shop. A thousandths can make a big difference.
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Old 09-05-2010, 16:32   #9
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Originally Posted by Blue Stocking View Post
Get 4 hex head bolts longer than the coupling bolts. insert a deep socket, or something similar between the shaft end and the engine coupling. Tighten the bolts, sequentially, and let the socket push the shaft out. Various size bolts and sockets may be needed
If neither coupling is threaded, use threaded rod.
I used this method yesterday.

Just one thing to add. With my luck this would cause the engine half of the coupling to pull off the engine shaft.

So, i would place a small piece of 1/4 inch plate on the engine coupler first, then the socket. This way the socket would be pushing against the coupler instead of perhaps the shaft.


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Old 09-05-2010, 16:46   #10
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Just one thing to add. With my luck this would cause the engine half of the coupling to pull off the engine shaft.

So, i would place a small piece of 1/4 inch plate on the engine coupler first, then the socket. This way the socket would be pushing against the coupler instead of perhaps the shaft.


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A nut holds the coupling on----or am I missing something here
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Old 09-05-2010, 19:59   #11
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Oh, if thats the case, no need for the bit of plate. I've never had to take the shaft off yet, and wasn't sure. I just have this horrid vision of both halves coming off because the coupling was splined and locked with set screws. My luck goes that way sometimes.

I'll know soon enough anyway as I'm about to pull the shaft on Sabre Dance and rebuild the shaft log prior to replacing the diesel. I'll be doing the whole deal. Prop removal, cutlass replacement shaft pulling, engine Re/re and alignment.


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Old 09-05-2010, 20:38   #12
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Cut the shaft with a Sawsall a bit in front of the coupling. Since the shaft is bent, it is no good anyway and you then can pull the rest out through the cutlass bearing. Now you unbolt the coupling and take the short shaft, with the outboard side of the coupling attached, to a hydraulic press and push it off the coupling, or use the bolt method described above. I had to do this job last fall and had similar trouble getting things apart and I had a six foot shaft in a center cockpit sailboat that was hard to manage in the space available. When cut into 3 pieces it was a piece of cake.
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