Propane Locker Build

[goboatingnow]

I built my own gas locker for my first boat, knock up a simple former from melamine MDF, wax the corners etc. gel then solid Glass/resin. If the mould is outside the GRP, i.e. the box exterior will be visible, then it will release easy enough, an inside mould , will need a way to dismantle the mould to release the GRP, ( I just broke mine up )

dave

[Zach]

Split the sonotube with a skill saw, then wrap a pair of huge hose clamps over the outside, pinch it tight enough to close the gap back up.

Wrap the sonotube in two layers of painters plastic, and do a good job of keeping the wrinkles out of it.

When you lay up the tube, keep each piece 2 feet or shorter, so it is manageable. Leave 6 inches of sonotube exposed on each end.

When you take the sonotube back out, un-do the hose clamps, and crush in the ends slightly so you can hammer a wooden dowel in 2-3 inches above the split. When it comes free, pry the dowel and hammer it around the tube as best as you can until it has broken free.

Smack the outside of the fiberglass tube with a rubber mallet until you can see an air pocket under the plastic the whole way around, and with a decent yank... it should come free.

I built a set of clamping cauls for pulling fiberglass tubes off molds... Scribe the radius of the tube onto a 4x4, cut out the radius and keep both haves. Once you have an inch or two of fiberglass off the form, screw the square side to the bench, and clamp the moon pie shaped block over the fiberglass then hammer the form out.

Cheers,

Zach

[robwilk37]

I built a hull extension/lazarette/propane locker for my boat last year, its a project you can really overthink. your tube will work fine. I like the idea of pre-splitting it, but a layer of 6mil or packing tape will work, even better if you could wax/mold release prior to lay up. id over make the tube and glass in some ears so you have a way to grip it to pull it off the mold. epoxy and 1700 or 1708, 4 layers will end up about 3/16" thick and be remarkably strong. what are your dimensions?

[C4 King Cobra]

I built one using 1/2 plywood. Glassed inside and out. Then painted with marine white epoxy. Total cost less than 75 $. Still in use today 10 years later. Just make sure you put breathing holes on the bottom.

[Opie91]

Originally Posted by C4 King Cobra

I built one using 1/2 plywood. Glassed inside and out. Then painted with marine white epoxy. Total cost less than 75 $. Still in use today 10 years later. Just make sure you put breathing holes on the bottom.

add:

that exits the boat lower than the drain and above the waterline.

[C4 King Cobra]

Originally Posted by Opie91

add:

that exits the boat lower than the drain and above the waterline.

I don't remember discussing the installation of the box. Just its construction.

[Flying Knight]

Okay, much more clear how this can be done. One last question: is it going to be a problem that I'll be glassing the bottom of the locker on after the main tube has cured? I'll be installing under a seat in the cockpit and also want to create a lip at the top of the locker which will support it in the hole I'll be installing it in, same question - any problem adding this is after the main tube is finished?

[Terra Nova]

Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt sachs
You could build it with marine plywood and fiberglass it?

Originally Posted by ShipShape

1) Maybe for some people double the work and expense = double the pleasure and fun.

2) Bad idea - plywood and fiberglass structure expand and contract at different rates for the same temperatures and humidity.

Utter BS.

Glass over ply is one of the finest methods available for creating one-off boat parts and modifications IF proper technique and materials are used on a well thought out design approach.

A few advantages over solid glass include:

saves having to build a mold or form

workable with basic woodworking skills and tools

easier to make changes and mount hardware

lighter

stiffer

quieter.

On TN, a double-ender, I created a propane locker for 3 large tanks, in the extreme aft section, by glassing in a 3/4" plywood floor, well above heeled waterline, with large open drains on both sides. Then I glassed in a 3/4" plywood bulkhead immediately forward of the shelf, creating a crash bulkhead for TN's stern. Access is through a round, commercial, aluminum, deck hatch.

[ShipShape]

Originally Posted by knottybuoyz

Huh?

Originally Posted by boatpoker

Huh ???

Originally Posted by Matt sachs

What they said....HUH?

Good grief - what did I write?? Ah, this: 2) Bad idea - plywood and fiberglass structure expand and contract at different rates for the same temperatures and humidity.

Hoo boy that was a bad post, my apologies for making you three guys grunt in public like that - it was the beginning of a holiday weekend and obviously I was paying more attention to the party preparations next door than to what I was writing.

Now if you guys could read my mind you would know that I was thinking about typical inappropriate materials people use when they are trying to save money (or just don't know) such as indoor plywood, and pine in particular. But I've also seen failures with improperly prepped teak, and have stopped two people who were intending glass over Starboard.

No question, fiberglass over plywood is great, but in terms of time and money it isn't always the best alternative for every project. Additionally, the knowledge and skills of the person building the locker are unknown. Assuming the locker is going to be on deck it is exposed to a range of harsh conditions, so using the appropriate materials and construction is much more important than if the locker is protected in the laz or someplace. Quality materials are not inexpensive.

The locker is for propane, which can have devastating consequences if improperly stored or handled. I was inattentive and made a bad post, I've seen enough problems caused by "saving money" that sometimes it is quicker and safer to say "don't do it". My apologies for the inattentiveness and confusion.

Originally Posted by Terra Nova

Utter BS.

The fiberglass tabs have delaminated from one of the plywood bulkheads in my boat - utter BS?

What about boats I have surveyed where the fiberglass deck has delaminated from the core? I put that in my reports and no insurance company has come back with, "Utter BS."

Yes I agree with your list of advantages, but even when good skills and materials are used, the combination of physical and/or thermal stress and moisture can cause fiberglass to delaminate from its substrate. You know that.

[Ukeluthier]

Originally Posted by ShipShape

The fiberglass tabs have delaminated from one of the plywood bulkheads in my boat - utter BS?

What about boats I have surveyed where the fiberglass deck has delaminated from the core? I put that in my reports and no insurance company has come back with, "Utter BS."

Yes I agree with your list of advantages, but even when good skills and materials are used, the combination of physical and/or thermal stress and moisture can cause fiberglass to delaminate from its substrate. You know that.

There is a big difference in adhesive qualities between polyester and epoxy resins.

[Matt sachs]

Shipshape, I was just having some fun. I should have thought twice before posting that. You guys here on CF have been nothing but helpful and supportive of my attempts to rebuild and refit my old boat. I think everybody here knows more about boats than I do. Thank you for all you do here to help out.

[Terra Nova]

Originally Posted by ShipShape

1) Maybe for some people double the work and expense = double the pleasure and fun.

2) Bad idea - plywood and fiberglass structure expand and contract at different rates for the same temperatures and humidity.

Originally Posted by ShipShape

... Hoo boy that was a bad post...
I was inattentive and made a bad post...
boats I have surveyed...

You are a certified surveyor? And post such nonsense?

[sully75]

Anything other than glass over plywood is too much work...

[Xthewater]

Originally Posted by Matt sachs

What they said....HUH?

Ditto here.....Huh?