Polyester clear finish

[tsl]

Has anyone used a Polyester clear wood finish? It's the finish used on pianos and ultra expensive board room tables.
It's available overseas but I see no one selling it in the US or to marine industry.
My intention is to use prior to Epefanes Rubbed effect.
I've spend a good deal of effort to brighten my teak down below and don't want to add anything that would tend to darken it again (other than the last coat of Rubbed effect).

[brankin]

Not a good idea. I have personal experience with doing this and have intimate knowledge of this product. Even though it is a tough finish, it will darken over time and is impossible to repair. My advice...stay away.

[capn_billl]

I've used polyurathane finish, or spar varnish.

You can buy polyester resin from any auto parts store, (make sure it is the MEKP not the cream hardener, both are Bondo brand). it is not available as a paint, but as a two part mix, (resin plus catalyst). Just like adding a layer of fiberglass without the glass mat.

Just make sure you have an even smooth coat before it hardens, because that road goes only one way. (hence the high price of pianos and board room tables).

[dennisjay]

I've used Cetol Clear Finish over Epifanes with nice results. Must be maintained regularly, though.

[minaret]

There are some specialized products made for marine applications which I have used. To get the desired effect without darkening or hazing you need to use such a specialized product, as regular poly resin has no UV inhibitors and will do both if not coated with something that does have inhibitors. The viscosity is all wrong and it tends to end up with very small bubbles in it. Regular poly resin is also not designed to be poured in the desired thickness and can exotherm too hot, causing yet more darkening and potential crazing down the road. It also is not very clear and is fairly dark by nature even when first applied. After playing around with various products, I much prefer Clear Cast resin from Fiberlay finished with Duratec after the pour. It wet sands and polishes beautifully and holds up to UV quite well and is crystal clear. It is a bit of a process though. Great for tabletops as any scratches can be wet sanded and buffed out and it looks amazing.


Fiberlay: Polyester Plug and Boat Molding

[Cheechako]

I used Epiphanes rubbed effect on one boat interior. It looked nice, but in the end I think I favor a satin finish varnish or polyurethane. To keep your interior from darkening, remember, you dont have to use exterior varnish... or poly. (you probably know that already) I do a lot of work on guitars.... I'd be tempted to go with real nitrocellulose lacquer on a boat interior.... dries in 15 mins for the next coat! Good base for most anything also... not effected by what you put over it... need ventilation though...

[tsl]

Originally Posted by minaret

There are some specialized products made for marine applications which I have used. To get the desired effect without darkening or hazing you need to use such a specialized product, as regular poly resin has no UV inhibitors and will do both if not coated with something that does have inhibitors. The viscosity is all wrong and it tends to end up with very small bubbles in it. Regular poly resin is also not designed to be poured in the desired thickness and can exotherm too hot, causing yet more darkening and potential crazing down the road. It also is not very clear and is fairly dark by nature even when first applied. After playing around with various products, I much prefer Clear Cast resin from Fiberlay finished with Duratec after the pour. It wet sands and polishes beautifully and holds up to UV quite well and is crystal clear. It is a bit of a process though. Great for tabletops as any scratches can be wet sanded and buffed out and it looks amazing.

Thanks to all , we are making some headway.
Minaret,
I think you are on a similar track. However, I'm not looking to pour the product. This is for Extremely expensive tables and concert pianos.

It definitely does not not darken in an interior environment.
It's Sprayed or brushed to 7 coats.

Brankin.... your comment on repair-ability was a great point and got me looking at piano repair where I finally made some headway. Lot's of good info on Polyester finishes. Yes, they do need special techniques to repair. Without the knowledge it 's impossible.

Cheechako hit it on the head. Plan "B" I can use Nitrocellulose lacquer get very close to the same look. It will avoid the UV protection that can not help the coating's clarity . EPA hates it since I recall it has more solvent than resin.
I think an email to Epifanes is in order. They mention that there PP Varnish ($$$) is a good primer for Polyesters. They must know of one used in the marine industry. Next challenge will be to get the Rubbed effect finish to stick to the Polyester. Epifanes should know that as well.

Thanks again to all.

[barnakiel]

We had a table like this. Resistant to scratches but not quite so to knocks. We did not have any UV issues but perhaps because it was inside.

You must be careful in choice of the varnish under your rubber finish as not all are compatible. Go for same line/maker products unless you are sure what chemistry the things are and how they interact.

b.