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04-12-2010, 06:27
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#1
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Grenada
Boat: Shorebro,Royal 33 - Aloisius
Posts: 1,059
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Painting Under the Stands Supporting the Hull
I have prepared the hull on my boat and painted with antifouling paint. I now have the stands that need to be moved to paint under them. In the past the boat yard would put cloth between the wooden pads and the hull, they were moved and I painted. It seems as though where the wooden pads and cloth were is where the barnacles seem to attach first.
Would it be possible to put a piece of wax paper between the wood, cloth and the hull to try and protect the paint. Does everyone use cloth between, or just the wood? I have seen the boats moved and they have nothing between the wood on the stands and the hull.
Suggestions? Dave
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04-12-2010, 07:54
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#2
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Fernandina Beach, FL
Boat: Island Packet 380 - Delta Blues
Posts: 353
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Probably depends on the kind of paint you use. An ablative paint likely will wear off when press against a stand. We use a non-ablative paint that dries hard and moving the stands isn't a problem after the paint is dried. Have no idea whether wax paper would work, but it's an interesting idea.
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04-12-2010, 08:03
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#3
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CLOD
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: being planted in Jacksonville Fl
Boat: none
Posts: 20,822
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I used an ablative paint last year and just moved the stands with just the wood aganist the hull. There wasn't any problem with the paint being worn/rubbed off at the stands.
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04-12-2010, 08:15
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#4
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: North, Va
Boat: pearson invicta mk2
Posts: 58
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we used heavy plastic off a roll at the boatyard i worked...weath hard paint or ablative
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04-12-2010, 08:38
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#5
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Long Island, New York
Boat: Landfall 39 Pilothouse Cutter
Posts: 3
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I move my stands every time I'm painting the bottom (or getting it painted). I just let the wood rest against the fresh ablative bottom paint. Of course it's usually only for a few days before launching. I've never had a problem.
Regards,
Brian
s/v Calico Jack
Landfall 39 Pilothouse Cutter
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04-12-2010, 10:55
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#6
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Kingston, Wa.
Boat: 1966 Buchan 37
Posts: 302
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old wetsuit
I use squares cut from on old wetsuit between the hull and the stands, doesn't bruise the paint.
__________________
Fred Guy
Maelstrom
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04-12-2010, 12:09
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#7
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 2,959
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Try old carpet covered with polyethylene sheet. Helps to let the paint really dry. Helps to move twice:
Sand and first coat new pad patches.
Move stands.
Sand and coat everything else to finish thickness.
Move stands.
Coat patches to finish thickness.
Best if done with once with the travel-lift so the keel blocks can be moved.
Carpet and plastic on the travel-lift straps too. A few extra lay days for complete drying. Expensive, but worth it in future longevity.
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04-12-2010, 12:53
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#8
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2008
Location: hard aground in C.FL
Boat: Bombay PH 31
Posts: 325
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allways
dont know where your at but in the keys i've allways seen wax paper used.
never tried cloth, seems like it would take some paint with it!
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04-12-2010, 13:23
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#9
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Northumberland UK
Boat: Colvic Watson
Posts: 94
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Agree with others just move the stands using wood against the hull.
One trick some of us do is ask for a lift back 'in' just before lunchtime, get them to lift the boat 'before' they go to lunch and hold her in the slings, and just touch up the antifoul where stands have been and where the keel was sitting on the blocks, it usualy dries quick anyhow.
Job Done!
__________________
Mike
Archivist for the Colvic Watson Owners Group
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04-12-2010, 13:35
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#10
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cat herder, extreme blacksheep
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: furycame alley , tropics, mexico for now
Boat: 1976 FORMOSA yankee clipper 41
Posts: 18,967
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our yards make sure that area is done before splashing boats by relocating the stands as they go.
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04-12-2010, 17:02
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#11
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Long Island, New York
Boat: Landfall 39 Pilothouse Cutter
Posts: 3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tynesider
One trick some of us do is ask for a lift back 'in' just before lunchtime, get them to lift the boat 'before' they go to lunch and hold her in the slings, and just touch up the antifoul where stands have been and where the keel was sitting on the blocks, it usualy dries quick anyhow.
Job Done!
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This doesn't work well if your paint needs time to dry. I like to allow 24 hours minimum before splashing.
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05-12-2010, 03:32
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#12
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Grenada
Boat: Shorebro,Royal 33 - Aloisius
Posts: 1,059
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I use ablative Island 44, will be moving the stands today and we splash on Wed. Thanks for all of the comments. Dave
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05-12-2010, 04:04
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#13
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2008
Boat: 2017 Leopard 40
Posts: 2,725
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Calico Jack
This doesn't work well if your paint needs time to dry. I like to allow 24 hours minimum before splashing.
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Oil-based paints can generally be launched wet, if the boat is moved directly to a nearby slip at slow speed. They will "dry" in the water. Water-based paints require 24 hours before launch.
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05-12-2010, 04:11
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#14
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Grenada
Boat: Shorebro,Royal 33 - Aloisius
Posts: 1,059
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Did not know that. I moore in in a bay about 1 mile away. Possible could anchor for a night. Thanks
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05-12-2010, 05:37
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#15
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2008
Boat: 2017 Leopard 40
Posts: 2,725
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Quote:
Originally Posted by landonshaw
Did not know that. I moore in in a bay about 1 mile away. Possible could anchor for a night. Thanks
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I learned this years ago -- when I used a wood cradle for my boat. There was no way to move pads, so I would sand and paint everywhere the cradle didn't touch, then at launch they would pick up the boat just before lunch hour, and I would sand and paint the remaining areas while it was in the slings. It would adhere as well as the fully-dried areas, and in fall when I hauled out it all looked the same. (I used oil-based Micron copolymer ablatives at that time).
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