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28-01-2011, 09:01
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#1
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Key West
Boat: Westsail 32 and Herreshoff 28
Posts: 1,161
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Outboard Rudder, Gudgeon Bolt Holes Repair
Hello,
My gudgeon bolt holes in my outboard rudder and very sloppy.
I have the rudder off and inside a rented space.
Can I fill with West System and then re-drill new holes?
The holes are 2.5 inches deep.
Thanks
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28-01-2011, 09:49
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#2
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Senior Cruiser
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: PORTUGAL
Posts: 31,083
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Yes... but I'd add colidial silica to the mix to strenghten it more.... also I'd suggest a S/S plate/plates inside and out to spread loads and reduce wear where the bolts go through the hull...
__________________
You can't oppress a people for over 75 years and have them say.. "I Love You.. ".
"It is better to die standing proud, than to live a lifetime on ones knees.."
Self Defence is no excuse for Genocide...
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28-01-2011, 09:57
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#3
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Marine Service Provider
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Little Compton, RI
Boat: Cape George 31
Posts: 3,181
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There might be some confusion here. Are the holes in the rudder sloppy, or are the holes for the gudgeons in your boat's hull sloppy. If the former, then by all means fill and drill. If the latter, then Boatman61 is right. Normally the bits of hardware on the rudder are designated 'pintles', to distinguish from the 'gudgeons' on the hull.
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28-01-2011, 10:03
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#4
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Senior Cruiser
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: PORTUGAL
Posts: 31,083
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Benz
There might be some confusion here. Are the holes in the rudder sloppy, or are the holes for the gudgeons in your boat's hull sloppy. If the former, then by all means fill and drill. If the latter, then Boatman61 is right. Normally the bits of hardware on the rudder are designated 'pintles', to distinguish from the 'gudgeons' on the hull.
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Think I'd still fit a plate under the fittings... if they've opened up once they'll do it again.... the vice-like effect will stop/slow a repitition
__________________
You can't oppress a people for over 75 years and have them say.. "I Love You.. ".
"It is better to die standing proud, than to live a lifetime on ones knees.."
Self Defence is no excuse for Genocide...
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28-01-2011, 17:42
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#5
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Key West
Boat: Westsail 32 and Herreshoff 28
Posts: 1,161
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I am such a looser, I apologive to both of you.
I meant pintles and not gudgeons.
The gudgeons on my hull are in great shape.
My problem is where the pintle's bolts go through my rudder, the holes in the fiberglass are worn and sloppy from 33 years.
Thanks
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28-01-2011, 17:48
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#6
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Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Key West & Sarasota
Boat: Cal 28 "Happy Days"
Posts: 4,210
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I'd explore some bronze "sockets" to bush the rudder/pintle joint.. Easy enough to do. I think I saw some bronze tubing at Key West Marine Hdwe.... If not I'm sure KW Welding on Simonton would be able to turn you out some from solid stock. Overdrill the rudder and bed in the bronze with West Sys... Make sure the core of the rudder is ABSOLUTELY dry or the West won't adhere!
__________________
Any fool with a big enough checkbook can BUY a boat; it takes a SPECIAL type of fool to build his own! -Capngeo
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29-01-2011, 02:36
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#7
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Moderator
Join Date: May 2008
Location: cruising SW Pacific
Boat: Jon Sayer 1-off 46 ft fract rig sloop strip plank in W Red Cedar
Posts: 21,471
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Quote:
Originally Posted by endoftheroad
I am such a looser, I apologive to both of you.
I meant pintles and not gudgeons.
The gudgeons on my hull are in great shape.
My problem is where the pintle's bolts go through my rudder, the holes in the fiberglass are worn and sloppy from 33 years.
Thanks
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IMO, if the original setup was simply holes drilled through the rudder and they worked for 33 years, then filling with epoxy/high density filler mush and redrilling should be a completely adequate fix. Don't over-engineer a simple job!
Cheers,
Jim
__________________
Jim and Ann s/v Insatiable II, lying Port Cygnet Tasmania once again.
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01-02-2011, 00:44
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#8
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Eustis, FL
Boat: 1960 Chris Craft, 1957 Clyde, 1961 Atkins, 1986 Macgregor 65, plus three of my own design and build
Posts: 239
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You should log onto the West System site and read up on "hardware bonding". In your application you'll want more then just straight a silica mix. Alone silica is very dense and tends to be brittle. The addition of milled fibers or cotton flock (West 403 is cotton) will greatly improve adhesion and elongation strength, both quite desirable here. A 50/50 mix is good.
It's important you have a dry rudder, so check the holes for moisture, which ideally should be below 15% moisture content. If it's wet, acetone baths can wick out a lot of it, as can a carefully used heat gun.
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01-02-2011, 04:08
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#9
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Key West
Boat: Westsail 32 and Herreshoff 28
Posts: 1,161
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PAR
You should log onto the West System site and read up on "hardware bonding". In your application you'll want more then just straight a silica mix. Alone silica is very dense and tends to be brittle. The addition of milled fibers or cotton flock (West 403 is cotton) will greatly improve adhesion and elongation strength, both quite desirable here. A 50/50 mix is good.
It's important you have a dry rudder, so check the holes for moisture, which ideally should be below 15% moisture content. If it's wet, acetone baths can wick out a lot of it, as can a carefully used heat gun.
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I have it sitting in the sun and it has been drying out quite well.
Very much help here, it's appreciated.
Thanks
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