Outboard Mounting

[ksmith]

I am in the process of mounting a 9.9.

Is there any reason approx 3 inche shim between the mount and the transom would be a problem. I would like a little more clearance between the motor cowling and the transom.

[GordMay]

Will your Outboard Mounting Clamp open wide enough to fit over the transom and shim?
If so, no problem.

[Moonchaser2304]

I bet you know all this, but the motor mounts popular on Catalina-22, and others, by Garelick get the motor up out of the water and snug to the transom when not in use and out and away from the transom in the down (in use) position...I've installed a few of these on my, and other people's, boats and they are well built..I do NOT like the ones with a single bar (they wobble), need the double ones with big handles and springs..also note they can be adjusted to the slant of your transom

5 vertical running position lock bar compensates for boat trim




Garelick Motor Carts, Stands and Brackets
From the Catalina-22 parts web site

ProductItem #QtyPriceGarelick 71090, 169lbs max, 9.5 inch vertical travel, salt water use, 4 stroke engines 980658$294.95 USGarelick 71091, 175 lbs max, 15.5 inch vertical travel, salt water use, 4 stroke engines 980659$399.95 US

[delmarrey]

I'll second the Garelick mount.

[AnchorageGuy]

You didn't say what kind of boat you are mounting this on so the question is a bit hard to answer.

[ksmith]

As a matter of fact the Garelick is the mount in question. However the negative transom is a full 28 degress which places the motor cowling right up against the transom/toe rail.

What I plan to do is shim between the transom and the attachment plate approx 2 inches. Garlick actually sells shims in 1 inch increments.

If you look at #3 and envision the swing arm in the all the way up postion.

[ksmith]

P.S. Probably should have check a little bit more. Garelick makes a mount with a 14 inch swing arm, mine is 11 (came with the boat). The 14 inch would make more sense with a negative transom.

[ksmith]

PS to the PS

The boat is a 1970 27 foot Tartan

[Zach]

Yeah, a shim is often required, in more than one way... the transom probably isn't perfectly flat! So lay the block up and bring a something square along too. You want it flush, and wide enough that the bolt holes won't crack the grain if its wood.

(I've got an aluminum block that I've knicknamed "The Space Shuttles Wheel Chock." My garlick mount did not have trim... this summer I will be replacing the whole unit.)

Also, make sure the boat is loaded and people "weight" is in the cockpit when you decide the depth to mount it. This means hanging the outboard and mount via a rope, and checking the flange depth. Go deeper than you think is needed, as any hobby horsing will begin to cavitate the prop.

Good luck, there are a lot of variables to think about... but if your slip is big enough to handle it, set up the height so you can drop the depth down a few clicks and tilt it out of the water as needed. (Let you motor through a little bit steeper waves than having the lowest setting be the "proper height.")

The easiest way to measure the angle, is to use a slope formula by dropping a plumb with a pre-marked string with one inch intervals off the top of the transom. Just knowing the angle doesn't really do it when you go to lay out the spacer... it'll show the how far off flat the transom is. That is... if you you want to compensate for some angle in the spacer too.

[delmarrey]

The Garelick mount should have enough angle.



Or you could add one of these to get it farther away from the toerail.