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**roverhi** · 30-06-2019, 14:24

Some types of grease will turn into a solid lump when subjected to salt water. Would use LanoCote, it's lanolin based, seals out moisture penetration but not supposedly a great lubricant. It sure works at keeping stainless fasteners from corrosion locking into aluminum.

Never Seize compounds also work great but get the silver/grey kind. There is a copper colored type that contains, you guessed it, copper which will galvanically reacts with the aluminum.

thruska · 30-06-2019, 14:44

Imho,
Franz, if you het bolt it expands, if you heat the bracket , it expands . In sure you understand the advantage of heating thebracket.
I have used heat on bracke , and chunk of ice on bolt, viola ! It works
Then use aluminum base anti seize as suggested, used vinyl or latex gloves as thisstuff will end up on everything , will ruin clothes., but it is priceless as a thread lubricant forever.
If resources are scarce, rub a bar of soap across the threads, it will help amazingly.
Or even bacon grease or whatever grease is in the frying pan....

Comix Bay · 30-06-2019, 16:44

Quote:

Originally Posted by stormalong

Once you have it free apply Permatex anti seize grease. Turn it back and forth until it is loosened up. Re-apply annually. You should not have this problem again. Wipe up the excess as this stuff if very hard to wash off and you don't want it everywhere.

Permatex anti seize grease is available at any auto supply store. In comes in an about six ounce jar which for most of us is a lifetime supply.

People have to realize that the OP is in Europe, Germany to be exact and not all NA products are available to her.

Ted VA7YQQ
Comox, BC

Uncle Bob · 30-06-2019, 17:03

Quote:

Originally Posted by AlanR

I use 50/50 acetone and automatic transmission fluid, heat, and gentle taps with a hammer. These fluids don't mix, so shake well before use.

Now they are free, clean up the threads with a wire brush. A rotary one in an electric drill is best. Then apply copper bearing grease to prevent futher seizing.

As mentioned above it happens to us all.

Best regards

Alan

And how well do copper and aluminium get on together? I believe that lithium grease is a better solution.

KP44 · 30-06-2019, 18:26

There is a firearm lube called "breakfree" that could help. But WD40 will clean and de-grease. It should help loosen.

I always use Tefgel on outboard threads. It makes them feel somewhat "gummed up" but there is never any galling or frozen parts.

**a64pilot** · 30-06-2019, 18:47

Breakfree AKA CLP if your military, for Cleans, Lubricates, Protects

First used in middle 80’s excellent stuff really, before it we had cleaners and lubricants, different ones for different weapons, and different ones for cold weather, jungle etc.
Break Free or CLP replaced all of it and really, really works
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/MIL-L-63460
https://www.safariland.com/products/...ive-15337.html

ColinIOM · 01-07-2019, 12:19

Hi Franzisca,
now that you have it freed off, the real long term fix you are looking for, I have found, is as follows:
First a couple of questions, and some information.
Do you know what a “tap” is? If you don't, it’s for cutting new threads from a blank drilled hole, a whole set of taps consists of three actual taps, a First, then a second and finally a Plug, they will have 3 or 4 “Flukes” (Grooves) to carry the cuttings away from the thread as its being cut. (that is the important bit)

Most hand taps have straight flukes but machine taps (High speed) sometimes have spiral flukes, the type of fluke here is not the important bit, just that there are flukes to carry away the cuttings,

The issue with the dissimilar metals which I know you understand, is that there is no where for the aluminium oxide to go while it grows inside, except to jam up the thread clearances causing the all too familiar problems.

The fix, turn the screw either out or in whichever exposes the most thread, then cut a single groove using a junior hacksaw across the thread to form a type of fluke in your screw, your fluke will likely form a spiral across the thread. Cut it down to thread depth and no more, (it doesn't have to be perfect, as long as it does its job of carrying away the aluminium oxide) turn your screw all the way in the other direction and try to complete your “Fluke” . Do the same with the second screw, use copious amounts of your favourite release fluid (WD40 will work fine) and work the screws out and in until it is a free as it ever was, cleaning your fluke as required.
When you are happy, clean off the release fluid and any crud from your fluke and lubricate with a good waterproof grease, working it into the alloy housing.

Cutting your fluke is not easy, just persevere, it will be worth it.
In the long term, your fluke is already made, just do the cleaning bit.

As mentioned by someone else, never heat the screw, heat the bracket (cool the screw if you can too)

All the best
Colin (Sailing the Baltic)

roland stockham · 02-07-2019, 08:48

If you really want to fix the problem the engineering solution is to drill out the threads an replace with a bronze insert. S/S would do but can still bind (called galling) that does not happen with S/S Bronze. It is stupid not to make them like that but would add a few $ to the price.

Suijin · 02-07-2019, 09:00

Quote:

Originally Posted by conchaway

wd40 is of little value (and NEVER use it on firearms!)
Apply a 50/50 mixture of acetone and antifreeze; tap. repeat. If it's really bad, you may have to soak it a while. I read it in a farm magazine, and it's the best thing ever.

I think you mean 50/50 acetone and ATF. A d yes it works really well.

After they are worked loose and cleaned up tefgel would help.

Nicholson58 · 08-07-2019, 07:47

Quote:

Originally Posted by Franziska

Hi, on my small 4hp Suzuki, the bolts to fix the outboard on the bracket have been corroded despite all the grease.
Stainless bolts with aluminium casing is always not that great.
With a lot of elbow grease I could turn them enough to get the engine out of the hold. I can hardly turn them at all. WD40 has been used already a lot.

Any thoughts how I can unscrew them and make them turn again. Best would be with onboard tools.
Will a heat gun (up to 650 Centigrade) help?

How would a mechanic approach this, most likely very common, problem?

Thanks Franziska Attachment 194993

Likely the aluminum has corroded. If you force it, possible damage to the bracket. Consider cutting the bolts and the removing. Retap the bracket, grease. Next time use bronze bolts or aluminum. PB blaster often works where WD does not. You can often find replacement bracket parts on line. For some reason manufacturers seem to use junk for the brackets.