Old Thru Hulls . . . What Should I Do ?

[otherthan]

I have no plans to instal a toilet...so I am wondering if I should sceal the holes or install new seacocks in case I may need them in the future?

I plan to use the toilet and wet locker space to instal 45gal water drums...so I dont need the seacocks.

[Ironhorse74]

Both of those look like gate valves. Are the rest of your through hulls gate valves? That would bother me.

Are you going to make the area inaccessible? If so I would remove them. Hate to think about one corroding to the point of leaking and then not be able to access it.

Brad

[David_Old_Jersey]

Originally Posted by Ironhorse74

Both of those look like gate valves. Are the rest of your through hulls gate valves? That would bother me.

Are you going to make the area inaccessible? If so I would remove them. Hate to think about one corroding to the point of leaking and then not be able to access it.

Brad

If they are gate valves the decision is pretty much already made - remove them.

I would seal the holes up, both as cheaper than buying seacocks (you won't be using) and also because won't leak (if you do a decent job ).

Just to also say, if those are the inlet and outlets - they are a bit too close, when pumping in nice to be using clean water.........

[otherthan]

Originally Posted by Ironhorse74

Both of those look like gate valves. Are the rest of your through hulls gate valves? That would bother me.

Are you going to make the area inaccessible? If so I would remove them. Hate to think about one corroding to the point of leaking and then not be able to access it.

Brad

the other through hulls are the sink (no valve) and cockpit drains wich are as the sink direct without valves.


as for the erea, yes it will be covered with a 45gal plastic drum, however I will use a trap to store valuables under the water drums.

[otherthan]

Originally Posted by David_Old_Jersey

If they are gate valves the decision is pretty much already made - remove them.

I would seal the holes up, both as cheaper than buying seacocks (you won't be using) and also because won't leak (if you do a decent job ).

Just to also say, if those are the inlet and outlets - they are a bit too close, when pumping in nice to be using clean water.........

the hull is about one inch thick...would filling it with epoxy resine do the job?

how would you do it?

[Ironhorse74]

Originally Posted by jobi

the other through hulls are the sink (no valve) and cockpit drains wich are as the sink direct without valves..

I would get a valve on that sink.

Brad

[otherthan]

Originally Posted by Ironhorse74

I would get a valve on that sink.

Brad

first thing next spring!!!

[minaret]

Originally Posted by jobi

the hull is about one inch thick...would filling it with epoxy resine do the job?

how would you do it?

Definitely not. Grind a taper into them from the outside. For a 1" hull thickness taper back about 10-12". Then hot glue a piece of formica or anything else flexible/stiff enough to cover the hole from the inside and still leave a fair surface. I like formica because you dont need a release agent for it, but if you are worried about the material you use bonding cover the exposed part with packing tape, it's an excellent release. Then make a nice plastic pattern and use it to cut out alternating layers of DB 1708 and 10 oz. matt. Laminate in polyester iso resin or vinylester. Stack on layers rolling out as you go until the whole patch is just a little proud. Grind flush, fair with compound of choice or a gelcoat primer, barrier coat, bottom paint, and yer done.
Those holes are really close together, that area of hull has already been weakened enough. Make sure it's repaired right. Pay a pro if it's beyond you.

[otherthan]

Originally Posted by minaret

Definitely not. Grind a taper into them from the outside. For a 1" hull thickness taper back about 10-12". Then hot glue a piece of formica or anything else flexible/stiff enough to cover the hole from the inside and still leave a fair surface. I like formica because you dont need a release agent for it, but if you are worried about the material you use bonding cover the exposed part with packing tape, it's an excellent release. Then make a nice plastic pattern and use it to cut out alternating layers of DB 1708 and 10 oz. matt. Laminate in polyester iso resin or vinylester. Stack on layers rolling out as you go until the whole patch is just a little proud. Grind flush, fair with compound of choice or a gelcoat primer, barrier coat, bottom paint, and yer done.
Those holes are really close together, that area of hull has already been weakened enough. Make sure it's repaired right. Pay a pro if it's beyond you.

dang I was going to use a holesaw and drill plugs of an old frp boat at the shipward...epoxy the plugs in my throuhulls and cover inside-out with a few layers of matt...thinking this was more then enough???

do I really need to do it as you say? it looks labor intensive
if I dont have a choice, will do it

thanks

[Capt Phil]

Minaret has the right idea... do it once, do it right. That way you will sleep well at night knowing there is 0 chance of failure. Make sure your repair builds up the weaken area between the old thru hulls. Poor design putting them so close together. Good advice to valve off the sink and cockpit drains as well. Doesn't take much heel to bring water aboard. Capt Phil

[minaret]

Alternatively you can do the same thing from the inside, which allows you to skip the fairing and barrier coat. But I think the other way is a better repair....

[cburger]

As Minaret says, judging by the proximity of the through hull openings you may be able to make one large dish grind around the openings and not have to make two seperate repairs. West System has a l "How to repair fiberglass boats" manual that shows this type of repair very clearly

[otherthan]

Thank's gent's!
will follow your wisdome

[delmarrey]

If you have a cored hull the procedure could be different. Not so much grinding and should be done from both sides with a foam plug in the middle.

But on the other hand if you ever want to use (one of) them again you could just put in a Marelon thruhull fitting and cap it off w/o a valve. The Marelon could be in there for years w/o worry of corrosion.

[David_Old_Jersey]

Originally Posted by jobi

Thank's gent's!
will follow your wisdome

Plenty on the internet about that