Old Boat Refit (Seacocks)

[thomm225]

Another point I need to bring up.

I'm hoping since my boat came from up North, North Falmouth, MA, it spent lots of time out of the water

Do folks up that way pull their boats every year?

Also the PO took his last cruise from Massachusetts to Florida and the Bahamas in 2004- 2006 as best I can tell. The boat then sat on the hard for 5 years. I bought it in June 2011.

It then spent the Winter of 2011/2012, 2014/15, and 2018/19 on the hard.

[Exile]

Originally Posted by DeValency

Agree with Exile note above here!
Tapered stem marine grade bronze valves are generally sturdier and massive than ball valves but need a serious frequent service as you describe. I just wonder how many owners are running it annually as you do.

My guess is that it's a relatively small percentage. It's generally not realistic (or all that safe) to service them while the boat's in the water, and it's not an easy or quick job while on the hard. I also suspect that, once neglected for much over a year, they can start weeping or freeze up, and people assume it's terminal. It's usually not, of course, but presented with a "maintenance-free" alternative (at least for awhile), many simply opt to replace.

The more common valves for the last 30+ years are ball and these are more sensitive as you describe and also have thinner walls.

I'm stupefied about reports that some of these are made out of cheap brass which can corrode in a matter of a few years. Especially when you consider the likely percentage of boat owners who may not even know how to access their seacocks, let alone be able to evaluate their condition.

Now, the way more sensitive parts are the skin fittings and here there is always very thin wall. Electrolysis and minerals effect is like a colon cancer - the molecular disintegration can hardly be seen on the outside, but one day (or probably night) these will break even without a significant external impact.

Good information I wasn't aware of. Also rather scary!

On composites: Marleon and TrueDesign - the potential breaking risk is indeed noted to skin fittings but a proper installation can eliminate a disaster even if the mushroom is shaved by an external impact. I probably wouldn’t use these on thin hulls but go with wide flange bronze fitting. On my Contest, with her 20mm hull thickness the composites should be fine - again - if properly installed.

Probably a dumb question, but can the seacock/ball valve portion of one of these composites be used in conjunction with a more robust bronze skin fitting? If so, then it might offer the best of both worlds.

At any case. This discussion is important to any of us.

Yup, one of the critical components of our boats which should probably never make it onto the deferred maintenance list, imho.

[thomm225]

Originally Posted by Exile

Speaking of, the photo from Thomm above definitely shows a Spartan. That it appears to be missing its hose barb may be of concern, as it suggests it may have corroded and was removed (or broken off), with the seacock itself abandoned (by a PO apparently). I'm no expert but this suggests, to me anyway, some corrosion from lack of maintenance or possibly electrolysis which could have compromised more than just the hose barb. For this reason I would probably replace, or at a minimum replace the hose barb (if possible) and cap it off with a length of hose (until your next haul-out).

Like almost everything on our boats, it's all a compromise. YMMV.

Thanks for the name of that seacock.

I think I'll take a closer look at it tonight.

It didn't appear to have any corrosion on it, but the hose barb does seem to be an inch or so too short going by pictures of other Spartan Seacocks. Not sure how that much could have broken off though. Strange.

There is a piece of an edge missing .....

I also have a plastic plug. What the consensus on those?

[thomm225]

Originally Posted by DeValency

***

Sorry, my two cents...

Statistics shows that most boats sink right at the dock!

15 miles offshore can be as bad as 500... and if your boat sinks would it matter? Just make sure your life raft is a bit younger than 45...

The difference in sinking 15 miles offshore instead of 500 miles is that when I step into my 10 year old kayak with my hand held, water, and lunch pail (plus 3-4 beers) I won't have too far to paddle. My kayak is 16' 6" and weighs 39 lbs. It's 24" wide.

I've already completed an 8 mile test paddle in the ocean without supplies (except water) so I'm thinking I can make the 15 no problem

[thomm225]

Originally Posted by Exile

Speaking of, the photo from Thomm above definitely shows a Spartan. That it appears to be missing its hose barb may be of concern, as it suggests it may have corroded and was removed (or broken off), with the seacock itself abandoned (by a PO apparently). I'm no expert but this suggests, to me anyway, some corrosion from lack of maintenance or possibly electrolysis which could have compromised more than just the hose barb. For this reason I would probably replace, or at a minimum replace the hose barb (if possible) and cap it off with a length of hose (until your next haul-out).

So to follow up, I inspected the hose barb today and it's totally smooth on top.

No way it has ever had a section broken off. There's a small dimple section missing from the inside but that's it.

I'm thinking to break off a section of that hose barb you'd need a chisel and hand held sledge hammer especially in it's location

I'll do the scratch test in 2022 and decide from there

[sails4fun]

My experience with Marelon underwater products - thru hulls, valves, seacocks, nipples, strainers etc. continues to be superior! Unlike PVC, it meets the USCG standards for use below the waterline and it meets the ABYC Standards for impact resistance. Like all below the waterline products, maintenance is important so exercise and lubricate all underwater products as required by manufacturers.

[thomm225]

Found a good article today on the seacock scratch test mentioned in Casey's book

https://www.passagemaker.com/technic...the-gatekeeper