Nonskid on a Varnished Ladder

[Macdyver]

What are everybody's favorite ways to achieve non-skid texture on a varnished surface (companionway ladder)?


For context, I redid the finish on my companionway ladders a couple years ago, and the P.O. had some plastic nonskid tread plate type things on there. They were pretty badly weathered and messed up, so I tossed them. After I re-varnished, I put some rectangles of black 3M non skid tape on each step. I thought it looked just fine, and it seemed to accomplish the task of providing traction with minimal effort. However, after just about two years the tape is pretty well worn away (though interestingly the adhesive is sill bonded nicely to the ladder), so now it's time to consider replacing it.



What have people had success with, particularly in a high traffic area? Using sand or salt in the varnish? Just painting it with a patch of some non skid paint?

[TheOffice]

I tried a non-skid additive. Did not give enough traction, so I went with 3M tape.

[Orion Jim]

I use the 3M black nonskid tape (it used to be referred to as skate board tape) and replace it every three years or so. I used to use strips of the 1” but now I use the 4” wide tape. I have never slipped, regardless of conditions, since I went to the wider tape.

[Corvidae]

We used skateboard grip tape on our gang plank. Still looks, and works, like new after two years. I'd be curious if there is any difference at all with the 3M tape. Main advantage of the skateboard tapes that I noticed was that you can get a wide range of colors.

[Van Der Beek]

Originally Posted by Corvidae

We used skateboard grip tape on our gang plank. Still looks, and works, like new after two years. I'd be curious if there is any difference at all with the 3M tape. Main advantage of the skateboard tapes that I noticed was that you can get a wide range of colors.

I like that idea, never thought to use skateboard grip tapes.

[Lazerbrains]

I like the crushed walnuts added into varnish trick - looks beautiful and works very well.

[SV Siren]

I sprinkled "SoftSand" on wet varnish in taped off areas, and then let it dry, I then added two more coats of varnish to seal the deal. It has held up pretty well so far.

[BillKny]

We used 50 feet of 3/8 three strand line tied in a pad knot, with Velcro hand sewn to the underside.

Great nonskid. Traps dirt before it gets into the cabin. Lasts forever. Looks salty. A fun project. What’s not to like?

Sometimes the old traditional ways really are best.

[AiniA]

I used the 3M tape and then put a coat of varnish over it and wood. Seemed to stand up well to 4 years of living on the boat.

[Macdyver]

Originally Posted by BillKny

We used 50 feet of 3/8 three strand line tied in a pad knot, with Velcro hand sewn to the underside.

Great nonskid. Traps dirt before it gets into the cabin. Lasts forever. Looks salty. A fun project. What’s not to like?

Sometimes the old traditional ways really are best.

Ah! I tied a whole pile of those those (and similar mats) when I worked on schooners; don't know why I didn't think of that. I'll have to knock some of those out when I've got some free time next.

[zstine]

I just used the clear stick-on nonskid tape that is like course sand paper. worked well. looked good for a while, but gets dirty.

[CarinaPDX]

I use the Interlux Polymeric Non-Skid additive for the top of the varnished bowsprit - if it didn't work well I wouldn't be using it there. After getting the varnish job completed I mask off the top, just inside the edge, and put on a coat of varnish with the spheres added. That's it. It is not very obvious but is very effective.

On my companionway steps I let in 1/4" wide lengths of holly, standing proud a bit. It works well for fore-aft slippage but not to the side of course. But it looks so salty...

Greg

[boat driver]

Next varnish job,
tape off the tread area where you want non-skid.
Get "grip-tex" by awlgrip, wet the taped off area with varnish, then using a tea strainer, salt shaker or similar, shake over the area until consistencies of a fine evenly spread layer of dust covers the varnish.
Then when dry, pull tape, vacuum non-stuck grip-tex off, and varnish entire ladder.
Anticipated longevity is approx. three-five years (three varnishing's) before I find the varnish buildup makes it smooth. Then just do it again. The grip-tex bonds withthe varnish so as the varnish wears from foot traffic the grip-tex will not pop out like sand or walnut shells.

Personally I prefer the extra course grip tex. It is a whiter color, but patina turns golden with varnish.

The shaker provides the even amount. If it is not shaken on, the patterns will show after varnish.
I also use Epiphanes varnish, so thick.

[billgewater]

If you use a non skid additive, then it's a pain when you do any future re-varnishing. Plus as the varnish wears off the granules of grit, the colour changes in the irregular wear places.
I have three timber steps down into my boat and have tried the lot. The main entrance uses black 5 cm, (2 inch) wide tape specifically designed adhesive non skid tape. Bunnings et al.
Big pluses are 1) it is really conspicuous - you can't miss seeing it 2) it is very cheap and easy to replace when the timber needs re-varnishing 3) it really works well - it does the job.
Both of the other steps use small wooden D profile wood strips (about 1 cm wide) on the steps. This works well unless wet (rare) but are a pain when it comes to re-varnishing as the wood strips usually don't wear evenly.

We tried a white adhesive non skid safety tape but it gets grubby quickly - the black stuff seems OK.

[rfinklegal]

We used Lewmar Treadmaster in the teak color. If you can find it, it comes in 11”x5-3/8” with rounded corners. It is really tough and has lasted quite a few years (and still looks great).