Non-Skid on fibreglass deck

[DanS4R]

Folks,

I have an older glass boat that has the moulded in style non-skid on the deck. This may have worked as such in the past but does so no longer.

I had the notion to fill in the patterning and paint a 2-part non skid surface on top.

My question is, should I use an epoxy resin filler, or will a polyester resin do the job just as well? Given that the filling of the patterning on the deck doesn't require any strength from the filler I was hoping the cheaper stuff would do...

Thoughts?

Cheers,
Dan

[Cheechako]

why fill it in? There are some new products like Kiwi Grip that aren't slippery like marine paint also.

[ozsailer]

times 2 for the Kiwi Grip. There is a clip of it on youtube.

[DanS4R]

The thinking was to fill it to give a smooth surface to then apply something like kiwi grip onto. I had thought of using a 2-part marine paint with texture added to it for longevity, but the kiwi grip would be just as good I suppose.

The way I see it with the deck as it is now, without filling, half of the texture would be useless because it would be in the trough of the moulded pattern. The pattern that is on the deck is quite deep...

I guess I could try a small area to see what the results would be without filling the pattern...

Thanks for the replies.

Cheers,
Dan

[minaret]

Originally Posted by DanS4R

The thinking was to fill it to give a smooth surface to then apply something like kiwi grip onto. I had thought of using a 2-part marine paint with texture added to it for longevity, but the kiwi grip would be just as good I suppose.

The way I see it with the deck as it is now, without filling, half of the texture would be useless because it would be in the trough of the moulded pattern. The pattern that is on the deck is quite deep...

I guess I could try a small area to see what the results would be without filling the pattern...

Thanks for the replies.

Cheers,
Dan

This is a common issue in the boatyard. The answer is, it depends on the skid. My usual solution is that it's much faster and easier to grind the skid off, as well as giving a better result. But sometimes the skid is embossed into the deck, requiring filling. The trickiest part about this is getting proper prep in the bottom of the diamond profile. This requires use of a stiff wire brush and/or a bristle sanding disc. Then you fill and fair with WEST and 407, unless you plan to finish with gel instead of paint. Sometimes you can do 50/50 grind and fill. If you try to apply skid over the diamond pattern, it will look like ass. BTW, Kiwigrip is awful.

[wsulli]

Does anyone know what used for the non skid on 76 pearson p 30. It is like a basket weave pattern and feels rubbery and slightly different color than the gel coat. Almost like it was laid in the mold first and gel coated over. I can't figure out how to match it where the stanchions were repaired, any ideas on how to match it.

[misfits]

Don't know if this helps.

I've grinded & faired two areas where the chainplates exit the deck. There used to be a molded non-skid pattern there. Once I sanded the areas down I've noticed that any remaining polyester w/ filler over the non slid was smooth in this area. That got me to thinking about filling in the grooves on the rest the deck with resin & filler so I could paint & sprinkle non skid on it instead of kiwi grip. Not sure how this would hold up over the long run.

[Terra Nova]

Originally Posted by Cheechako

why fill it in?...

Really! Why create a new career?

Just add Griptex to paint.

[Jim Cate]

Originally Posted by minaret

...

BTW, Kiwigrip is awful.

I usually am impressed with Minaret's knowledge and skills, but have to wonder about this statement.

Our experience with an Australian equivalent (Acrylmeric Sportcote) has been very positive. Good features:

1. Very inexpensive
2. Very easy for the ill-equipped amateur to apply
3. Very easy to touch up if damaged.
4. (and most important) It has provided the very best non-skid traction that we have ever experienced. Barefoot or shod, wet or dry, it is fabulous IMO.

Bad features:
1. It is hard to keep clean looking.

So, Minaret, why don't you like the stuff?

Cheers,

Jim

[minaret]

Originally Posted by Jim Cate

I usually am impressed with Minaret's knowledge and skills, but have to wonder about this statement.

Our experience with an Australian equivalent (Acrylmeric Sportcote) has been very positive. Good features:

1. Very inexpensive
2. Very easy for the ill-equipped amateur to apply
3. Very easy to touch up if damaged.
4. (and most important) It has provided the very best non-skid traction that we have ever experienced. Barefoot or shod, wet or dry, it is fabulous IMO.

Bad features:
1. It is hard to keep clean looking.

So, Minaret, why don't you like the stuff?

Cheers,

Jim

Exactly as you describe. Hard to keep clean is a deal breaker for me. I also dislike the soft rubbery feel, and the feel on bare feet, though that is personal taste. Also difficult to remove compared to other products, doesn't sand or grind well. Application method (roller) leads to less than perfect skid pattern as well. Isn't even close to as nice as professionally applied Griptex. I would be the first to admit that some if the pros you list might be great for you and for others, but hold no appeal for me. That would be 1, 2, and 3. 3 because while it is easy to patch, that patch will be visible and a less than yacht quality repair. Longevity also comes into play.

[Jim Cate]

Originally Posted by minaret

Exactly as you describe. Hard to keep clean is a deal breaker for me. I also dislike the soft rubbery feel, and the feel on bare feet, though that is personal taste. Also difficult to remove compared to other products, doesn't sand or grind well. Application method (roller) leads to less than perfect skid pattern as well. Isn't even close to as nice as professionally applied Griptex. I would be the first to admit that some if the pros you list might be great for you and for others, but hold no appeal for me. That would be 1, 2, and 3. 3 because while it is easy to patch, that patch will be visible and a less than yacht quality repair. Longevity also comes into play.

OK, I understand a bit better now... and for you, a highly skilled pro with access to facilities that most of us only see in our dreams, the parameters are different. For those of us who are trying to maintain our boats whilst out cruising, life is different, and I suspect that our standards of cosmetic perfection have slipped a bit!

For us, the professionally applied grit (unknown variety) embedded in LPU deck paint had lost its grip on our feet, and it was becoming dangerous, especially when wet. Quick estimates from pro appliers were far beyond our budget... never got to the stage of a formal quote. So we were stuck with doing it ourselves, mostly at anchor, and the water based Sportscote (180 AUD for 15 litres) was available nearby. I had already done the shiny parts of the deck in rolled and tipped Altex Elite LPU, so with a couple of days of careful masking I was ready to roll on the new non-skid. As with so many amateur jobs, my skills improved as I went along, and the regularity of the stipple pattern improved. But in use, it all has incredible non-skid qualities. This stuff, BTW, does not feel rubbery at all. Once cured it is quite hard. It is now approaching four years old and has shown no signs of wear or loss of "grip". The area near the anchor windlass has some staining from mud, and I've not been able to get rid of that. The area around our BBQ is also stained in places... I'm a sloppy griller, I guess. I'd surely be happier if I could clean it better, but for us it was and is a good compromise.

I agree that this cleaning issue could be a problem for some, and that it would be difficult to remove by abrasion. I've noted that some solvents (used in attempts to clean it) seem to dissolve it readily, and there may be some useful combination that would strip it if required. After about two years the cockpit seat area was looking a bit grotty, so I simply washed it and rolled a second coat on. Worked fine, and I'll be doing it again soon -- winch handles and lots of traffic with dirty shoes, etc, has taken its toll.

Minaret, I do hope that our wakes cross some day, for I'd love to have a look at your restored better than new Nauticat. She must be glorious!

Cheers,

Jim

[minaret]

Originally Posted by Jim Cate

OK, I understand a bit better now... and for you, a highly skilled pro with access to facilities that most of us only see in our dreams, the parameters are different. For those of us who are trying to maintain our boats whilst out cruising, life is different, and I suspect that our standards of cosmetic perfection have slipped a bit!

For us, the professionally applied grit (unknown variety) embedded in LPU deck paint had lost its grip on our feet, and it was becoming dangerous, especially when wet. Quick estimates from pro appliers were far beyond our budget... never got to the stage of a formal quote. So we were stuck with doing it ourselves, mostly at anchor, and the water based Sportscote (180 AUD for 15 litres) was available nearby. I had already done the shiny parts of the deck in rolled and tipped Altex Elite LPU, so with a couple of days of careful masking I was ready to roll on the new non-skid. As with so many amateur jobs, my skills improved as I went along, and the regularity of the stipple pattern improved. But in use, it all has incredible non-skid qualities. This stuff, BTW, does not feel rubbery at all. Once cured it is quite hard. It is now approaching four years old and has shown no signs of wear or loss of "grip". The area near the anchor windlass has some staining from mud, and I've not been able to get rid of that. The area around our BBQ is also stained in places... I'm a sloppy griller, I guess. I'd surely be happier if I could clean it better, but for us it was and is a good compromise.

I agree that this cleaning issue could be a problem for some, and that it would be difficult to remove by abrasion. I've noted that some solvents (used in attempts to clean it) seem to dissolve it readily, and there may be some useful combination that would strip it if required. After about two years the cockpit seat area was looking a bit grotty, so I simply washed it and rolled a second coat on. Worked fine, and I'll be doing it again soon -- winch handles and lots of traffic with dirty shoes, etc, has taken its toll.

Minaret, I do hope that our wakes cross some day, for I'd love to have a look at your restored better than new Nauticat. She must be glorious!

Cheers,

Jim

Likewise!


I'd just like to note that there are some intricacies with Griptex. It comes in Fine, Coarse, and Extra Coarse. Fine is very fine, comfortable to lay on, but not horribly grippy. Coarse is pretty aggressive, no longer comfortable to lay on without a towel, and excellent grip. Extra Coarse is industrial grade, feels like skateboard skid, will remove skin. Like having sixty grit decks.

I prefer a 50/50 mix of Fine and Coarse. This is both very grippy and still comfortable to lay on. But one can play around with it and make it as aggressive as desired, by changing the skid mix. Also you usually apply a single coat of paint with flattening agent over the skid. How thickly this coat is applied, and even whether another coat is applied over it, also very much affects the texture of the skid.


I wonder what sort of particles you folks had? Griptex and Interdeck are both very specialized products with many benefits. The common practice of using sand or other media can't be compared. Longevity is generally excellent, particularly if applied with Awlgrip as opposed to softer paints, and even more so if that Awlgrip has been accelerated, which makes it cure even harder. Application is really very easy, none of the challenges involved in shooting smooth. You are unlikely to get a hanger in your non skid deck shoot!

[tdoster]

I have been testing Softsand on a few test surfaces before making a final decision. One has been in the sun since last summer.

Another boat in the marina had applied this stuff and I am pretty impressed by the look and that you can actually walk comfortably bare footed on it. He is going on two years and still looks good using Interlux.

Yes, concern is longevity.

Testimonials about SoftSand Rubber

[DanS4R]

Originally Posted by minaret

If you try to apply skid over the diamond pattern, it will look like ass.

That's exactly as I thought it was going to be... which I why I wanted to fill before applying the non-skid.

Cheers,
Dan