Need to replace my refridgerator

[HarrisonM]

Hello:

I have an Adler Barbour refrigeration system and it just went out. I think it is about 20 years old. My guess if a tech came onboard they would charge me $400 just to tell me it needs to be replaced. I think I need to bite the bullet and just replace it. I am not sure what to use and cost is an issue for me. Just curious who has recently replaced there refrigeration and what they used?

These are ones I have been looking at. I would love to get a kit which would have all the components I would need. It is a freezer with attached refrigerator - Freezer 9 sq ft +/- Fridge - 5.5 sq ft.

1. CoolBlue
2. Frigoboat
3. SeaFrost

Thanks

[OzeLouie]

Originally Posted by HarrisonM

Hello:

I have an Adler Barbour refrigeration system and it just went out. I think it is about 20 years old. My guess if a tech came onboard they would charge me $400 just to tell me it needs to be replaced. I think I need to bite the bullet and just replace it. I am not sure what to use and cost is an issue for me. Just curious who has recently replaced there refrigeration and what they used?

These are ones I have been looking at. I would love to get a kit which would have all the components I would need. It is a freezer with attached refrigerator - Freezer 9 sq ft +/- Fridge - 5.5 sq ft.

1. CoolBlue
2. Frigoboat
3. SeaFrost

Thanks

It may be worth describing what happened with your existing system as it may be something simple to rectify and costs nothing to ask!!! Most system failures are related to power supply and are easily rectified.

[Emmalina]

you could also maintain your enclosure and just change evap plate and compressor !

[HarrisonM]

Sorry. Unit stopped getting cold. No real error codes. I checked power before and after control board. Both were a steady 12 volts. It said it took R-134a. I added some but what I got had leak fix in it. Now unit gives 3 blinks and compressor clicks on and off. I was told it should not have been leak fix in it and most likely clogged it up. Dont know if there is an easy fix. Unit is 15+ years old.

[newhaul]

Originally Posted by HarrisonM

Sorry. Unit stopped getting cold. No real error codes. I checked power before and after control board. Both were a steady 12 volts. It said it took R-134a. I added some but what I got had leak fix in it. Now unit gives 3 blinks and compressor clicks on and off. I was told it should not have been leak fix in it and most likely clogged it up. Dont know if there is an easy fix. Unit is 15+ years old.

Sounds to me like over fill but my recommendation is contact rich ( sv third day)
He is the owner of cool blue refrigeration and cruise ro systems
https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums...+day-3180.html
Send him a pm he will be happy to help you

[OzeLouie]

Originally Posted by HarrisonM

Sorry. Unit stopped getting cold. No real error codes. I checked power before and after control board. Both were a steady 12 volts. It said it took R-134a. I added some but what I got had leak fix in it. Now unit gives 3 blinks and compressor clicks on and off. I was told it should not have been leak fix in it and most likely clogged it up. Dont know if there is an easy fix. Unit is 15+ years old.

Unfortunately using car air R134a with additives can destroy these micro systems but noting your low voltage (12v) there may be another issue and worth a test before discarding it.

Voltage drop test: * *
Using a good multi-meter connected to the negative and positive terminals (- & +) on the MDM as shown below, read the voltage before and when the compressor starts or attempts to start.*See pic below:

The voltage reading with no load, before the compressor starts is meaningless but do note that no-load voltage.

Next, continue to monitor the voltage as the compressor starts or attempts to start. If this voltage drops away by say a volt or more or below 10 volts then that is confirmation that most likely the power supply is the problem and that the compressor and MDM are not at fault. Again with multi-meter, check as above, from MDM back to the battery, testing at each terminal access etc.


*

[HarrisonM]

Thanks for your advice. I really, really, really appreciate it!!!!

I tested just as you suggested. I was reading 13.58/13.59 at the terminals on the MDM via the diagram you provided. When the compressor kicked in it dropped to 13.2 then recovered back to 13.58/13.59. I monitored it for 2-4 cycles. I also monitored at the power input connections to see what they were providing. The readings there were a steady 13.58/13.59 steady even when the compressor kicked in.

One thing to note is the meter I am using may not be the best of quality. It is a "All-Sun" I bought at Home Depot.

This might confirm it....

[Nicholson58]

We found its best to hire a pro unless you are one.

When we installed the 24 VDC Frigaboats we kept our old cold plates. Frigaboats work on solar. Cold plates on generator or shore power. Redundant backup. Had to have the Frigaboat freezer sucked down and recharged. Cold plates are bulletproof.

[OzeLouie]

Originally Posted by HarrisonM

Thanks for your advice. I really, really, really appreciate it!!!!

I tested just as you suggested. I was reading 13.58/13.59 at the terminals on the MDM via the diagram you provided. When the compressor kicked in it dropped to 13.2 then recovered back to 13.58/13.59. I monitored it for 2-4 cycles. I also monitored at the power input connections to see what they were providing. The readings there were a steady 13.58/13.59 steady even when the compressor kicked in.

One thing to note is the meter I am using may not be the best of quality. It is a "All-Sun" I bought at Home Depot.

This might confirm it....

That voltage is adequate with very little drop. It is not a supply issue.
How long did it stay on the 13.2 before defaulting back to the no load voltage of 13.59?
If you can borrow a MDM to swap over for a test, could be interesting and may save you lots of $'s Good luck.
Louie

[HarrisonM]

The time when the voltage changed was just a few seconds. Maybe 2-3 seconds. Sorry this is rookie question, but what is the MDM? Is this the motherboard/controller?

[OzeLouie]

Originally Posted by HarrisonM

The time when the voltage changed was just a few seconds. Maybe 2-3 seconds. Sorry this is rookie question, but what is the MDM? Is this the motherboard/controller?

Sorry Harrison, the MDM is Motor Driver Module. This is the box (Usually black!) on the side of the compressor with all the terminals on it. They are responsible for accepting 12 / 24 Volt Direct Current power supply, inverting to higher voltage Alternating power, splitting that into three phases to drive the three phase compressor motor. Add in the monitoring of current draw, voltage, over heat etc and these MDMs are complicated albeit made easier and much more reliable these days with 'soft start.

Usually the actual compressors themselves are near bullet proof and provided the gunk in the R134a hasn't locked it up, then there is a chance that only the old MDM is faulty and you may get lucky and from what you describe try testing with replacement MDM specially if you can borrow same.

[Shanachie]

I wouldn't sink another dime into a 20-year-old system. That's good money after bad and a waste of your time.



You can buy a drop-in Cold Machine replacement for a reasonable price at defender.com. It is easy to install with foolproof connectors to keep you from losing the refrigerant.


I did mine in an afternoon.



The new machines are much more efficient. Mine uses maybe 40 amps a day in Florida.

[HarrisonM]

Yes that is how I am leaning right now. I really like the CoolBlue, but my freezer box is too small. Isotherm seems to be my lead contender. I am leaning toward the "Isotherm 2013-SX Compact Air Cooled Refrigeration Component System with ISEC*".

What unit did you end up installing?

[newhaul]

Originally Posted by HarrisonM

Yes that is how I am leaning right now. I really like the CoolBlue, but my freezer box is too small. Isotherm seems to be my lead contender. I am leaning toward the "Isotherm 2013-SX Compact Air Cooled Refrigeration Component System with ISEC*".

What unit did you end up installing?

Talk to rich they design smaller systems .
Mine is a prime example it will have 3.5cf refer and a 1.5cf freezer in a spillover system .

[HarrisonM]

Newhaul...

Thanks for reply... Yup I have talking to Rich both on the phone and on email. He is awesome! He has been over the top helpful!!!! My freezer is 4.7 sq ft and frig is 4 sq ft. The issue with the freezer box is it is an odd shape due to it is against the hull. We looked at smaller plates, but Rich does not think they will work.