Need platform for new toilet

[Tom1340]

I'm throwing away my venerable W-C Skipper II head (can't afford the joker valves any more) and replacing it, probably with a Raritan PHII. The Skipper is a tall toilet. Its bowl rim is just above water line, which has proven to be an important feature. Since the new Raritan will be about 3 inches shorter. I need to build up the base deck so that its rim is also above water line. I'm thinking 3 layers of 1" Starboard (screwed together) or 3 layers of PVC board (glued together). I'll then anchor the new head to the original floor with long through bolts.
I'v never used either of these materials before. Can anyone comment on their suitability, or suggest a better alternative? I want this to be attractive when it is done.
Thanks
Tom

[HopCar]

I think that would work fine. How good it looks would depend on how well you could finish the cut edges of the plastic board.

How do you finish the cut edge of Starboard?

I'd install some sort of threaded inserts into the base deck and use machine screws to fasten down the toilet instead of self tapping screws. If there was a way to get nuts on the machine screws, that's even better.

Please consider buying the Raritan toilet from me.
Raritan PHII Marine Toilet

[onestepcsy37]

i'd go with starboard, having used it for similar applications. it's waterproof, doesn't absorb odors, can be cut and smoothed, can be drilled (but not screwed), comes in a variety of thicknesses. it won't crush under a heavy weight.

the raritan phII is also a great choice. after ten years the only part i've replaced on mine is the piston ring, and that's because i have a habit of flushing what some people think is too much - 15 pumps for liquid waste, 30 to 40 pumps for solids. but i've never had a clogged line or smelly hoses either.

hopkins carter, by the way, is an excellent chandlery. i would email him for his best price/delivery; bet you get a good deal AND great service.

http://www.hopkins-carter.com/raphmato.html

[Terra Nova]

The problem with laminating several layers of KS is that will create un-cleanable crevices. Better to laminate some exterior plywood, shape and coat with epoxy/paint.

[model 10]

Originally Posted by Terra Nova

The problem with laminating several layers of KS is that will create un-cleanable crevices. Better to laminate some exterior plywood, shape and coat with epoxy/paint.

Yes to that and perhaps a few layers of cloth or mat.

[onestepcsy37]

starboard is better for this application; plywood, even epoxy coated, is compressible. starboard won't compress. imagine a 200 lb person plus the weight of the porcelain head on top of the base, and add in some rocking and rolling from boat movement.

it will also be a whole lot easier and less messy to simply cut a piece of starboard to size than to cut plywood and then epoxy and apply layers of glass over the wood. i'm betting starboard would also be cheaper in the long run.

just sayin....

[Tom1340]

I originally wanted to use starboard, but am concerned the cracks between layers would become moisture and dirt traps. I considered treated plywood, but am afraid I cannot seal the holes where the anchor screws will penetrate down to the original fiberglass deck. (By the way, I have access beneath the deck, so,I'll be able to secure the anchor screws with fender washers and nuts.). I suspect Wet plywood will eventually fail in compression. That's the thinking that brought me to PVC board. Is there some reason none of you are promoting the PVC option?
Thanks for the excellent discussion and ideas.
Tom

[Cheechako]

I would think a Gunboat 60 would be a good platform for a new toilet! It's an interesting approach, buy the toilet first and then find the boat! haha

[Stu Jackson]

Why bother raising it at all? Really. Put an anitsiphon valve in the hose between the pump and the bowl and you're done.

It's actually covered quite well in the PHII installation manual.

[hellosailor]

Tom, I have no idea what the head compartment in your boat looks like but suspect the "proper" way to make the job look good is to raise the entire floor (excuse the lubberly term) of the area where the head itself is mounted. As opposed to just building a 15x20 or so platform to raise the new head. Which is what I'm guessing you're trying to do?

Coming down (no pun intended) from a Skipper to a PH2...well, between the cost of the new head, which will still need parts on the same schedule, and the installation, I'd have to wonder if just keeping the Skipper in working order might not actually be the best solution.

IIRC the Skipper is also a bigger bowl and seat, more like a home toilet and sized for adults rather than munchkins.

Just a thought.

[Tom1340]

Stu, the anti siphon valve would simplify the installation, but I have little experience with them. Are they sufficiently reliable for situations where their failure could put the boat at risk?
Hello sailor, I would like to keep my Skipper II, but joker valves are only available as part of a $140 rebuild kit. My last joker lasted 3 months. At that rate, the cost of a years supply of joker valves would buy me a new Raritan, plus a large inventory of spares.
Thanks for the suggestions,
Tom

[Badsanta]

I like the PHII but I recommend looking at the PHII with the household bowl. Still not as large as an elongated household type but much better than the standard PHII

[hellosailor]

Tom, if it only lasted 3 months something was wrong. Very wrong. How long did you usually get? Did you try contacting QC to see if they had any ideas about that?

Unless there's a neighboring meth lab that's dumping their chemicals down your head...3 months just ain't right.

[Stu Jackson]

Originally Posted by Tom1340

Stu, the anti siphon valve would simplify the installation, but I have little experience with them. Are they sufficiently reliable for situations where their failure could put the boat at risk?
Hello sailor, I would like to keep my Skipper II, but joker valves are only available as part of a $140 rebuild kit. My last joker lasted 3 months. At that rate, the cost of a years supply of joker valves would buy me a new Raritan, plus a large inventory of spares.
Thanks for the suggestions,
Tom

Tom, the answer is simple: YES. Not an issue. Many skippers have actually routed the hoses inside and visible in the head compartment. If you don't want to see them, then route them behind a bulkhead if you can or want to, but put the top in a position so you can get to it easily. They require inspection maybe every six months. If it fails, you are rarely at risk, because you will see the water rising in the bowl and all you do is shut off the head intake seacock.

As far as bowls go, you can buy the LBA, which is just the pump and base without the skirt and use you old larger bowl if you want.

It's really that simple: Defender.com Search Results: anti siphon

They make different sizes, that hose is usually 3/4".

You just unscrew the top "tit" which has a little rubber duckbill in it. Hose it with SuperLube spray and it's good for a long time.

Here's what I did on our boat. The anitsiphon on our boat is horribly and inconveniently located in the back of a storage locker.

Installation of Raritan PHII head w/Flix

Good luck, hope we saved you some work.