Need a Cheap Solution ( Homemade ) for Replacement Portlights

[sabray]

The problem or one problem with bolting plexiglas or lexan is thermal expansion. You must oversize the holes and allow the material to move. The expansion rTes are pretty dramatic when subjected to temperatures ranges. Ford I'm sure will produce a data sheet showing us this thanks gord.

[Pauls]

I'd suggest against the use of Lexan for ports. People use it because it's tough. It is, but it has the problem of going cloudy after a few years exposure. Plexiglass, on the other hand, will stay very clear for many years. It isn't as strong as lexan, so just use a little thicker sheet.

Paul

[Blue Crab]

Originally Posted by Pauls

I'd suggest against the use of Lexan for ports. People use it because it's tough. It is, but it has the problem of going cloudy after a few years thingsexposure. Plexiglass, on the other hand, will stay very clear for many years. It isn't as strong as lexan, so just use a little thicker sheet.

Paul

That's my take. I'm doing it almost as we speak. I'm planing on using whatever sealant I'm supposed to, and running screws into the coachroof, thru holes drilled with some super sexy plexy drill.

Things have to be strong.

[StormSailer]

I've been in deep @#$%^ since the post, sorry. My son-in-law is "trapped" in Tokyo, landed 1 hour before quake and we're trying to get him out. Will be right back with you in next day or so.

[Cormorant]

Those ports pictured in the WoodenBoat link are called "Wiley ports," I believe -- that might help if you're Googling around looking for more info. (No idea who Wiley was.) Phil Bolger was a big fan of those ports.

Also check into scratch-resistant Lexan. Much longer lasting. Search for MR10.

Good luck getting your son-in-law home.

[troppo]

While not about opening windows, this article describes no-screw window installation. The author says a key is to use the right thickness of sealant so that it can handle the expansion and contraction of the plastic. Very interesting.

How to install boat windows and port lights

[otherthan]

Originally Posted by troppo

While not about opening windows, this article describes no-screw window installation. The author says a key is to use the right thickness of sealant so that it can handle the expansion and contraction of the plastic. Very interesting.

How to install boat windows and port lights

this is very much like the butyl tape silicon I posted about...done right it will last 30+ years in any weather.

however the opening port method posted above is the way I will do mine...ventilation even when its raining seems like a winer to me.

[Pauls]

Regards the recommendation on scratch resistant lexan, I used this on a 38 footer I built. It held up fine for a few years, and then the coating began failing and it looked terrible. Plexiglass is soft and will scratch easily, but it is also easy to buff it out and keep it nice and clear.

When drilling plexiglass, it is important to use a drill with slightly blunted, ie dull edges. In machining this is termed "dubbing off) the edge. A sharp drill can dig into plexi and shatter it. Drilll with a dubbed off drill (you can use an abrasive stone to knock off the sharp edge). Use light pressure and use a coolant, kerosene iis good. Drill the holes significantly larger than the screws you are going to use for mounting, and do not fill the screw holes with sealant. The oversize holes allow the plexi to expand and contract without cracking it against the mounting screws.

Paul


Paul

[barnakiel]

Well, if you have the ports maybe just re-glass them with dupy lexan?

If you do not have the ports, then make non-opening ones from ... lexan?

Our boat has 0 opening ports and we do not suffer from this. Neither now now nor did we suffer 5 years in the tropics. The front hatch opens (front side up) and the companionway has a sliding hatch and that's it. But we a have a small boat - 26' only.

I have made new 'glass' for flat deck hatches and glued them in with a 3M product. That was for another boat. They looked as originals.

Our own ports are real glass and do not open.

b.

[otherthan]

[QUOTE=barnakiel;643028]Well, if you have the ports maybe just re-glass them with dupy lexan?

If you do not have the ports, then make non-opening ones from ... lexan?

Our boat has 0 opening ports and we do not suffer from this. Neither now now nor did we suffer 5 years in the tropics. The front hatch opens (front side up) and the companionway has a sliding hatch and that's it. But we a have a small boat - 26' only.

I have made new 'glass' for flat deck hatches and glued them in with a 3M product. That was for another boat. They looked as originals.

Our own ports are real glass and do not open.


thers only one port I want to open...its the one over my alcholo stove!

I like practicle