My new hvlp sprayer

[Scubaseas]

Originally Posted by Juanvaldez

I have all epifanes products including non-skid. I have a TON of existing non skid to deal with. If you have advice please feel free to share it. The existing stuff seems to be blasting sand mixed in or sprinkled on top

Sorry I assumed you were painting new not repainting.

Is you existing paint 2 part or a single part? It will make a difference as to the answers. If it's 1 part you do not want to top coat it with a 2 part. It'll crack up or flake off.

Take a rag soaked in acetone. Lay it on the existing paint for 5 minutes. If the paint gets soft or changes it's a single part paint. If it's 2 part paint the solvent won't effect it.

[Scubaseas]

Originally Posted by Russ

I find this interesting only because I have rolled and tipped my steel boat for 22 years. It’s steel, not faired, not a FG hanger queen it gets used and thus abused. Me thinks if you want pretty you should be in a plastic boat. Just my 2 cents. Besides spraying is not environmentally friendly unless you’ve got a vented building to do the job. Just the other side of the coin. No offense intended.

Hi Russ. The amount of VOC in the paint is the same no matter how you apply it. I agree that old style spraying if very inefficient with a lot of overspray but the OP is going to use HVLP which are much, much more efficient at putting paint where it's supposed to go. Like up to 90% if you add electrostatic. Old style is like 15 to 30% efficiency. Very little overspray with a good HVLP unit. So is the 10% waste more unfriendly than the rollers and brushes you need to roll and tip? Maybe, maybe not. Not trying to stir anything up or offend in anyway just wanted to say that HVLP spaying came about in a large part to be more environmentally friendly (and meet EPA regs) and also cheaper for commercial use. Less paint needed and much, much less exhaust filter changes on the spray booth.

Al

[Juanvaldez]

It's 2 part...did the rag test already

[Scubaseas]

Originally Posted by Juanvaldez

It's 2 part...did the rag test already

Good you checked, kudos. 2 part rules out chemical debonding like stripper or oven cleaner. So mechanical. I'd try a heat gun and scraper. If that fails go to 36 grit on a flat rigid disc on a 7" grinder ( not polisher). Flap wheels might work but might also get chewed up quickly. I'd only remove what's loose, feather and fair it.

Sand or soda blasting would work but after you paint. Not only expensive but it goes everywhere and you only find put as you're spraying painting.

Needle gun might be effective but will ruin your existing base coats. . Feather with a DA and fair

[AKA-None]

Originally Posted by Scubaseas

Yes a Preval will work for touchups. Make sure you put your paint and hardener left over in the smallest air space container. Un catalyzed it can still turn to Jello pretty quickly as will the activator.

Not sure about the paint but in the past I’ve also put a piece of plastic wrap on the paint in the can laying on the paint surface to keep it from skimming and drying out

Ymmv

[StoneCrab]

I used an automotive Devilbis spray gun for spraying dope on a fabric airplane, enamel on the metal and two part urethanes on my boat. The gun doesn't matter as much as making sure that the size of the needle matches the viscosity of the paint being sprayed.

HVLP guns can leave an uneven surface due to the delivery method, but this can also be addresses with additives to the paint to enhance flow or delay setup.

The most extreme example of that for me was when I hand painted my windlass and stay pole. I didn't want to bother getting out the spray equipment so I just got my best brush out and added some flow control solvent. The results were indistinguishable from the sprayed parts.

The prep work and setup is far more important than the spray gun used for any painting project.

I have gotten in the habit of using several air compressor tanks between the aircompressor and the gun to drop all of the moisture out of the air. The secondary tanks are just tha,t tanks without compressors. This works really well. If it is winter, put one of the tanks outside and then run the hose back into the shop. The colder the tank, the more condensation you will have. You want the air at the gun to be cool and dry. If it is still carrying moisture, when it expands coming out of the spray head, the remaining moisture will condense in the spray and you will have surface defects in the paint.

I also have the usual filters just ahead of the gun, but find that the extra tanks make all the difference.