Mounting Teak Treads to Plexiglass

[Lou-In-NJ]

***Looking for opinions and ideas***
I am going to replace my two 3/4" Plexiglas hatches which currently have teak treads on them, and for a while I was considering not reinstalling the teak treads on the new Plexiglas hatches but instead just using grip tape; however, I have grown to like the more vintage and sea-going look of the teak treads and I wanted to see if anyone can give me any reasons to consider something else.

ALSO, currently the treads are screwed to the Plexiglas, is there any reason not to use VHB tape, or some other method, in addition to, or instead of screws to attach the treads to the Plexiglas?

[nuku34]

If its "looks" your after rather than practicality, then go with the teak. Personally I hate the stuff and looking "salty" or "vintage" only makes sense on a real vintage wooden boat. But each to his own. Grip tape is a better/cheaper non-skid solution and doesn't involve drilling holes in your new Plexiglass (why would you want to create several potential places for stress cracks to develop).

If you must have the teak, glue it down with epoxy or 5200 or use two-sided tape.

[Bowdrie]

Epoxy and the 4000/4200/5200 adhesives generally do not work so well on acrylics or polycarbonate materials.
Sika 295-UV is the one to use, that's its job, it does it well.
The underside surface of the teak should be primed either with the Sika primer that is commonly used for priming seams in teak decking, or alternately abrade the teak well, wipe the surface with acetone or alcohol and put on a thin coat of epoxy.
You will also use alcohol to clean the plastic surface.
You'll not require screws from below, but you'll want some weight(s) or some kind of clamping arraignments until product sets-up.
A lot of masking tape will be used.
It will be a messy job.
Grip-tape from 3M, sold at Ace Hardware as "Stair tread" material is available in different widths at whatever length you require.
It will be a lot easier.

[Lou-In-NJ]

Thanks for the input & advice guys.

The teak treads are actually screwed into the Plexiglas from the top, so it's just a matter of setting the depth gauge on a drill press and using the holes in the treads as guides. And that seems to be easiest, although not the prettiest when looking from below. I have plenty of clamps if I glue them, but it seems like that would be a huge undertaking to keep it neat.

[boat driver]

Originally Posted by Bowdrie

Epoxy and the 4000/4200/5200 adhesives generally do not work so well on acrylics or polycarbonate materials.
Sika 295-UV is the one to use, that's its job, it does it well.
The underside surface of the teak should be primed either with the Sika primer that is commonly used for priming seams in teak decking, or alternately abrade the teak well, wipe the surface with acetone or alcohol and put on a thin coat of epoxy.
You will also use alcohol to clean the plastic surface.
You'll not require screws from below, but you'll want some weight(s) or some kind of clamping arraignments until product sets-up.
A lot of masking tape will be used.
It will be a messy job.
Grip-tape from 3M, sold at Ace Hardware as "Stair tread" material is available in different widths at whatever length you require.
It will be a lot easier.

with the price of the sika products you may change your mind. but teak must be properly de=oiled and the plexiglass MUST use a proper angle drill bit. Also the holes must be the proper oversize for the fasteners due to material temp changes. If not the plexiglass will craze and break around the holes.
out of curious why replacing the previous hatch? If crazing around the fasteners- now you know why.
Butthe look is nice and appear functional

[Uncle G]

If you're going to have that much wood over the top of the hatch, an alternative would be to make a traditional teak 'grating' with square holes and hinge it in between the hatch hinges. The holes in the grating could be a bit larger than you'd have in a cockpit sole. That way it wouldn't slide anywhere when it was down and it could be flipped back out of the way when not sailing - allowing a lot more light below.

Also, it would mean that the hatch itself doesn't need to be butchered with a lot of holes.

[Lou-In-NJ]

Uncle G: that is just too much to re-engineer and build; and its one more thing to catch a sheet on.

Boat driver:
You can't tell, but the Plexi is crazed and beat-up...the struts have been ripped out from below ...it's 43 years old after all.

[capt jgw]

Never tried it but I think vhb tape would be adequate if the teak is epoxy coated. A lot easier and neater too. If it will hold acrylic windows on the side of the boat with no screws it sure should be able to handle a few ounces of wood. I definitely would not drill holes in the hatches. I'd definitely not drill holes in the hatches.

[JimsCAL]

I would just avoid either the teak strips or the non-slip tape. Most hatches have neither.